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| Hello, that is certainly one of our (virtually) each day tastings. Santé! |
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January 31, 2025
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We’re setting off once more on a journey all over the world of whisky |
Let’s begin from France as ordinary, then we’ll fly to Sweden, Canada, China once more, Germany, England and Tasmania…
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| Daikin Distillery, Fujian. Is not she pretty? (Daikin) |
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Domaine de la Pèze 2021/2024 ‘Moyssou 2020’ (46%, OB, France, ex-cognac cask) 
Right here we’re in Savignac within the Aveyron, the place they use barley from the distillery’s personal property, malted at a regional malt home, then distilled on-site in a small Armagnac-style column nonetheless. The harvest passed off in 2020, and, as is usually the case, after its dormancy interval, the barley was used the next yr. Color: white wine. Nostril: contemporary, with notes of bread, malt, pastries, a contact of earth, and some seeds (fennel, poppy). There’s some pear and plum, however not excessively so. Mouth: very fruity at first, with that eau-de-vie-of-berries high quality you discover in lots of younger malts from distilleries not utilizing pot stills (over 95% of them, roughly). The feel isn’t heavy however incorporates a pleasant mixture of mirabelle plums, apricots, and quince that works very properly. The contemporary seeded bread be aware remains to be pretty, together with lemon and anise. End: very slight tannicity, however general mild. Feedback: typical of a younger, fastidiously made craft malt with out extreme cask affect.
SGP:641 – 84 factors. |
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Mackmyra ‘Imaginative and prescient 1999’ (45.2%, OB, Sweden, twenty fifth Anniversary Version, new Swedish oak, bourbon, and PX, 2024)
You might know that the distillery filed for chapter in 2024, although there’s reportedly a candidate for its acquisition (my info is a bit dated, I admit). It appears the distillery reopened on the finish of 2024, however their web site stays oddly quiet. By no means thoughts the web sites, although. That mentioned, the ‘1999’ on the label doesn’t seem like a classic, which all the time feels a bit cheeky. Color: deep gold. Nostril: it really works, although it’s very uncommon. Suppose darkish chocolate infused with lapsang souchong, clove, and allspice, together with loads of damp potting soil and black pepper. Hints of lavender. Mouth: a number of pepper and bitter wine (retsina), then darkish chocolate and fairly a little bit of soy sauce and balsamic. It turns into barely bitter and fuel-smoky after that (or at the least that’s the impression). End: lengthy and really oaky. There’s a robust oloroso-like character, adopted by salted chocolate sauce and bitter orange. Feedback: it actually doesn’t do issues midway, that’s for positive. We recognize the ‘no compromises’ strategy, however that is yet one more one which’s very arduous to attain.
SGP:563 – 83 factors. |
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Macaloney’s ‘Kildara Batch 1’ (46%, OB, Canada, Signature Assortment, 611 bottles, 2022) 
The cask invoice right here reminds us of the Mackmyra: bourbon, oloroso, Pedro Ximenez, and virgin oak. There’s no STR or mizunara, however nonetheless, one wonders, “is there whisky too?” (simply joking). It appears this follows the Irish methodology: malted and unmalted barley, triple distilled in pot stills. Color: reddish amber. Nostril: not dangerous in any respect, very cask-driven, with raisins, patchouli, rosewood, butterscotch, a slight meaty contact (bacon), and an general gentle profile. Mouth: I get pleasure from this violet-flavoured liquorice, alongside notes of ripe strawberries and mangos, layered over fruitcake and mendiant. It actually has an Irish character—hope I’m not offending anybody. End: good size, spicier, largely peppery. Feedback: regardless of all of the complexity from the casks, I discover this superb, very easy-drinking, and dangerously quaffable. No marvel Donald J. may wish to annex the nation—even when he doesn’t drink (however NYC bartenders say he used to).
SGP:641 – 85 factors. |
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Laizhou ‘Blender Inaugural Version’ (43%, OB, China, single mix, 1,999 bottles, +/-2024) 
We had been fairly impressed by the inaugural single malt from Laizhou (Szechuan) the opposite day, and now right here’s the ‘self mix’ or ‘single mix,’ which appears to include 70% malt. I’m not completely positive I’ve understood every thing, however plainly the grain whisky was additionally distilled in pot stills, just like the malt, and never in columns. Color: gold. Nostril: I consider that is three years outdated, and for 3 years, hats off—it’s tender and fruity but has complexity. Notes of white chocolate, roasted hazelnuts, ripe peach, and people delicate menthol touches we already discovered within the single malt, together with eucalyptus and a tiny puff of peony. Mouth: a bit extra uncommon, with outstanding woodiness proper from the beginning (a sawdust sensation), then pear, honey, and vanilla. Scottish blenders, when composing a younger mix, typically add a little bit of older malt to easy out the youthfulness, however while you’ve solely been distilling for 3 years, that’s naturally unattainable. Nonetheless, that is very properly made. End: pretty brief, with little evolution other than some orange notes. Feedback: the only malt was really glorious (WF 85), and this charming mix will want a bit extra time. Comprehensible. It’s additionally admirable that they didn’t attempt to supply older malt and/or grain whisky from overseas, within the Japanese style.
SGP:531 – 80 factors. |
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Daiking ‘Double Cask’ (51%, OB, China, bourbon and oloroso sherry, +/-2024)
Right here we’re in Fujian, and we’ve already loved a number of high quality Daikings. Color: deep gold. Nostril: this begins with a beautiful dusty be aware (sure, mud might be lovely), evoking pollen, outdated books, and classic beeswax polish, earlier than shifting into dried fruits, together with longans, goji berries, and dried jujubes, adopted by very ripe apples and candy sherry. A really pleasant nostril, with a distinctly ‘Chinese language’ character that I actually like—only a private impression. With water: yeast, raisins, Ovaltine, and sherry. Mouth (neat): a really polished dram, with spices harking back to cinnamon rolls, a slight peppery contact, then marmalade, darkish chocolate, and walnut tart. We’ll attempt to not point out pu-ehr tea an excessive amount of, however sure, it’s there. With water: completely glorious, even with saline touches. End: lengthy, a bit woodier (oak, cedar), however the dried fruits do their job. Additionally, candied sugar and orange marmalade. Feedback: and to prime it off, the distillery is beautiful.
SGP:541 – 87 factors. |
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Bimber ‘Chopin the Composer’ (52.0%, OB, England, Shoulders of Giants, for Poland, fino, cask #513/28, 328 bottles, 2023)
One other launch for Poland, naturally. At WF, we’re fino-ists—and manzanilla-ists too. Color: gold. Nostril: the fino affect is sort of large, with gunflint, gunpowder, bitter apple, and mustard, to not point out these well-known contemporary walnuts and a contact of mocha. With water: no actual change, every thing stays virtually equivalent. Mouth (neat): a number of bitters, beer, mocha certainly, Seville oranges, chervil, tobacco, leather-based, chilli chocolate, and juniper berries… There’s rather a lot occurring right here—that is no little nocturne composed by Frédéric Chopin himself. With water: water smooths it out a bit, although cooked bell pepper additionally emerges. End: lengthy, softer, with raisins lastly making an look. Feedback: extra Frank Zappa than Frédéric Chopin, however we love them each.
SGP:461 – 87 factors. |
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To remain considerably within the realm of extremes…
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St. Kilian 2017-2021/2024 ‘Signature Version Fourteen’ (49.8%, OB, Germany, 4,260 bottles)
Brace your self, as this was matured in French casks: ex-Rhum Agricole (190 litres, 21%), ex-Armagnac (400 litres, 20%), ex-Cognac (300 litres, 14%), ex-Sauternes (225 litres, 11%), ex-red Margaux (225 litres, 12%), and ex-Champagne Vin Clair (350 litres, 22%). Lengthy stay Europe! Color: gentle gold. Nostril: nothing actually stands out, however that’s completely high quality, and the nostril is something however excessive. It’s fantastically malty, with notes of pastries, a contact of wine affect (although delicate), yeast, hints of younger Alpine Gruyère, winery peaches (as present in summer season Gruyères), and a little bit of white nougat. Finally, it’s very delicate. Mouth: splendidly fruity, with stewed and candied fruits, notably cherries and angelica, buttery pears, some raisins, praline, and all the time these peaches (most likely from the Sauternes and Cognac duo). End: lengthy, spicier, leaning extra into wooden spices now—cumin, nutmeg, and pepper. Feedback: how may I not love this? Spitzentropfen, really stylish.
SGP:551 – 87 factors. |
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By the best way, the vin clair in Champagne is the primary stage of manufacturing. Initially, a “regular” wine, the vin clair, is made, after which it undergoes a second fermentation within the bottle. For top-quality cuvées, the vin clair might be made and aged in oak barrels, typically Chardonnay barrels introduced in from Burgundy, simply to the south, notably pièces from Chablis, or demi-muids, or bigger vats… It should be this kind of barrel that our associates at St. Kilian used. Proper then, one final drop for the street…
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Hellyers Highway 21 yo 2002/2024 (62.4%, OB for La Maison du Whisky & Kirsch Import, Australia, American oak, cask #3093.04) 
I don’t have to elaborate additional on my ideas about this Tasmanian distillery and, above all, its merchandise. Whereas the earliest releases didn’t impress me, every passing yr has been an increasing number of convincing. Let’s hold this fast, like having a small spoonful of caviar swallowed in a single go (why not?). Color: gold. Nostril: simply good. Vanilla cream, ardour fruit, mango, orange, nectarine, fir honey, and loads of pollen—all in full and complete concord. With water: meadow honey. Mouth (neat): explosively fruity, with touches of varnish and glue, probably from the wooden—or maybe the 62%. With water: what I notably love are these faintly minty natural tea notes that be a part of the fruits, largely yellow fruits, and naturally, the honey. End: lengthy, with delicate wooden rising and tiny hints of espresso (ditto). Peach pores and skin. Feedback: you can virtually use this wee marvel to interchange honey. Effectively, perhaps not for breakfast.
SGP:651 – 90 factors. |
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