I.W. Harper’s 34 yr outdated bourbon arrives with three distinct narratives: the documented story, trade hypothesis, and the liquid fact. There’s no disputing, for instance, that is the oldest launch in I.W. Harper’s 150-year historical past, comprising 4 barrels laid down in 1989 and left to mature at Stitzel-Weller’s hallowed Kentucky facility.
Likewise, we all know that, after three a long time, that quartet of barrels yielded a scant 11 bottles of this expression, 5 of which are presently up for public sale at Sotheby’s. (Which ends at this time—present bids exceeded $4,000 per bottle this morning.) We all know the proof—63.1% ABV—and that the proceeds from the public sale will go to profit Native Son, a nonprofit to profit Black homosexual and/or queer males.
The hypothesis begins with what’s really in these bottles. Business insiders imagine bourbon distilled in 1989 and saved at Stitzel-Weller is probably going Bernheim juice. It is also Stitzel-Weller, one supply advised me, “however why wouldn’t Diageo [which owns Stitzel-Weller] simply disclose that?” One other rumor: Diageo could have blended a few of this liquid into the just lately launched 24 yr outdated Stitzel Reserve ($1,600). “This 34 yr outdated could be an ideal device to convey physique to that 24,” one other supply advised me.
Diageo’s press launch is notably imprecise, describing the bourbon as “an expertise meant to be understood first-hand,” somewhat than offering tasting notes. Having tasted it as a visitor of Sotheby’s, I can inform you what that have reveals.
First, context issues with 30-plus-year bourbon. “It’s extremely arduous to steadiness one thing with such age. Few have carried out it earlier than,” says Zev Glesta, spirits specialist, and affiliate vp of Sotheby’s. Even the world’s oldest bourbon, James Thompson & Brother “Remaining Reserve” 45 yr outdated Kentucky straight bourbon, contains a warning notice about “overpowering” tannins, and directions for including sherry to mitigate the oak assault.
The I.W. Harper 34 overwhelms from the primary sniff. Previous the ethanol burn, wooden dominates—not refined aged oak, however one thing like a Popsicle stick that’s been drying for hours. Tropical fruit, cantaloupe, melon, and fresh-cut grass cover beneath.
The palate proves funkier nonetheless. Minty menthol hits first, then charred oak. The tip of my tongue feels prefer it’s licking toothpaste off a burned tongue depressor. Mid-palate brings musty barn funk and grippy tannins, plus a stone-ground mustard oil notice that triggers coughing. Attempt sucking air in over the liquid to assist it open up in your mouth, and also you’ll cough extra.
The monstrous mouthfeel is supremely oily, thick, and closely viscous. It’s every part you’d hope a 34 yr outdated bourbon would really feel like; nonetheless, the flavour is concentrated within the mistaken areas. “There are a variety of sharp edges in there that might use a little bit of air,” Glesta says.
The end is oddly quick, evaporating sooner in case you open your mouth. It’s tannic and exceptionally drying. The ultimate notice is akin to pouring cherry Enjoyable Dip in your mouth; a variety of puckering with a pop of artificial fruit.
I ask Glesta whether or not consumers will discover this really drinkable. “That is for seasoned whiskey drinkers,” he says. “The novelty is so cool. How typically are you able to drink something from 1989 that’s contemporary out of a barrel?”
