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| Hello, that is considered one of our (nearly) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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December 30, 2024
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WF’s Little Duos, at the moment treasured previous Bunnahabhain plus apéritif
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(Remembering John MacLellan)
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We may have a lot extra Bunnahabhains firstly of subsequent yr, however for now, we needed to rejoice the tip of the yr with two very prestigious previous bottlings, preceded by an aperitif that shouldn’t be too unhealthy both.
(Warehouse tasting, early 2000s, WF Archive) |
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Bunnahabhain 21 yo ‘2024 Cask Energy Version’ (53.6%, OB, oloroso + 21 months Pedro Ximenez cask end, 2682 bottles) 
What quantity of latest Scottish malts are actually PX-finished? One moderately will get the impression we’re nearing 50%, which should be splendid information for Andalusian coopers (Jerez, Huelva, Montilla, Malaga). That stated, it does depart us more and more reflective about what Scottish distillers really consider their ‘pure’ merchandise and the casks they make use of for brand spanking new fillings. Nonetheless, there are, in fact, some glorious PX finishes, particularly when not from first-fill casks. Color: amber. Nostril: it opens with cedarwood, pencil shavings and gum arabic, earlier than shifting in the direction of sultanas, dried figs and even a touch of strawberry jam made with brown sugar. One can not deny that that is actually fashionable, with noticeable contemporary oak, however very properly executed. With water: chocolate and occasional, with cedarwood nonetheless taking the lead. Mouth (neat): drier than the nostril recommended, but in addition far spicier, that includes a mixture of cinnamon, pepper, ginger and nutmeg that immediately evokes contemporary oak as soon as extra. Sultanas and dried figs observe however fail to totally masks the pronounced woodiness. With water: related remarks. Loads of liquorice wooden, turmeric and cardamom. End: very lengthy and nonetheless intensely spicy. Pink pepper, curry and darkish chocolate, with a contact of orange zest within the aftertaste. Feedback: decidedly fashionable and cask-driven, however actually very properly made.
SGP:372 – 85 factors. |
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The subsequent two needs to be much less ‘fashionable’…
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Bunnahabhain 35 yo 1966/2002 (46.1%, OB, Feis Ile 2002, sherry, cask #4379, 401 bottles) 
That is the primary time we’re formally tasting this previous expression, courting again to the times when Islay Competition guests had entry to unique previous whiskies at very affordable costs (and never the opposite manner spherical, ha). Be aware that our benchmark stays the 1968 ‘Auld Acquaintance’. Color: mahogany/espresso. Nostril: I’m instantly transported to the previous, again to warehouse excursions with John MacLellan, bung-puller and valinch in hand. What reminiscences! At any charge, it is a wealthy and weighty sherry on the nostril, evoking the impression of nosing a really previous ‘V.O.R.S.’, with an explosion of prunes and currants. Pipe tobacco, roasted pecans, triple sec and crème de menthe observe. A powerful nostril, fairly direct, with even fewer flaws than a Botticelli. Mouth: drier, focusing extra on aged walnuts, unsweetened espresso and really darkish chocolate, earlier than transferring in the direction of more and more fantastic notes of bitters of every kind. It turns barely drying, however this nearly turns into a constructive trait on this context. Chestnut honey brings some sweetness again after a few minute. End: pretty lengthy, very elegantly dry but light without delay. Blackberry and blueberry jam linger, with a peppermint and Christmas cake aftertaste (higher use this descriptor whereas it’s nonetheless in season). Feedback: I really feel this comes very near the stupendous Auld Acquaintance. I additionally suppose it’s time we revisit the latter quickly—it’s excessive time to re-check a few of our benchmarks. Sensible.
SGP:651 – 93 factors. |
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Bunnahabhain 35 yo 1965/2001 (53.9%, OB, Feis Ile 2001, sherry, cask #7159, 594 bottles)
Similar feedback concerning the Islay Competition, proper. I consider this child, just like the earlier one, got here from real sherry butts moderately than casks custom-made and seasoned for the whisky business. That’s actually what one may observe in Bunnahabhain’s warehouses on the time, I imply within the very early 2000s. Color: deep gold—not ‘espresso’ this time. Nostril: magnificent, although much less dominated by sherry, making it more energizing, nearly barely maritime (seaweed, brine), earlier than leaning extra in the direction of orange marmalade and cherry liqueur. A faintly earthy contact is kind of very good, adopted by tobacco and a touch of latest leather-based. Pistachio nougat. With water: nearly like an previous cognac now, with honey and splendidly ripe, juicy winery peaches. Mouth (neat): the sherry comes by extra strongly, as do the spices, making it really feel barely – however superbly – rustic at this stage regardless of fantastic citrus and honey notes. Fairly a little bit of peppermint emerges later. With water: and there it’s, tamed and delicate as a lamb, with sultanas, loads of candied fruits, and a stunning cup of tea with darkish chocolate. End: pretty lengthy and spicier, with occasional faint natural touches. Liquorice with mint lingers within the aftertaste. Feedback: this splendid dram might have suffered ever so barely in comparison with the completely supersonic 1966. Fond reminiscences of John MacLellan.
SGP:551 – 92 factors. |
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