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| Hello, that is one among our (virtually) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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October 4, 2024
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A little biofuel.
I imply, grain whiskies
We used to name them maltless blends, however these days there is a sure snobbery in favouring grain whiskies, a bit like our ancestors who would slum it within the shady components of huge cities. Admittedly, there are some good and even superior grains, however provided that they’ve spent not less than 30 years in top-quality casks, ideally the easiest sherry casks. However after all, I am open to altering my thoughts.
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North of Scotland, 1958-1980.
(clackmannanshire.scot) |
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North of Scotland 1964/1981 (100° proof UK, George Strachan, cask #37526, 5cl) 
Aka Alloa, additionally house of Strahmore Malt till 1959. Closed in 1980. We tasted this some fifteen years in the past, however A. it wasn’t nice, B. it was from a full bottle, and C. this one’s a miniature that’s simply surfaced from the cellar. And D. North of Scotland has change into exceedingly uncommon. Color: gold. Nostril: nicely, it’s nonetheless not nice. Grocery store coconut liqueur, wooden glue, vanillin, and that’s concerning the extent of it. Now, when tasting from a miniature, it’s essential to make sure the fill degree is nice, the liquid stays clear, and there’s no signal of that dreadful lacquer collectors typically use to ‘seal’ these mini-bottles. Anyway, not nice. With water: vanilla syrup, cane sugar syrup, and truthfully, low cost rum. Mouth (neat): it’s alright, with vanilla and coconut, although there’s a soapy rose observe lurking about. Meh. With water: extra of the identical. End: medium size, with impartial and sugary flavours. Feedback: I’m undecided if North of Scotland used excessive multi-column stills like Dumbarton, however it doubtless produced one thing fairly impartial. I reckon my 78 factors in 2009 have been the results of a very beneficiant temper.
SGP:520 – 59 factors. |
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North British 34 yo 1989/2024 (43.7%, Liquid Treasures, bourbon barrel, fifteenth anniversary) 
Now, let’s be clear: North British and North of Scotland are usually not the identical factor (see, Whiskyfun does come in useful). Color: straw. Nostril: significantly better. Yellow flowers, gorse, dandelion, acacia honey, acacia blossoms, and freshly squeezed orange juice, adopted by some very younger first-flush tea, silver needles, and even a contact of fried rice. Mouth: there’s nonetheless that barely ‘empty’ high quality you get with grain whisky, however right here the floral aspect and notes of small apples, jujubes, sorb berries, and medlars add a little bit of complexity we gained’t deny. There’s additionally a little bit of tangerine within the combine. End: not lengthy, however pleasantly candy. Jogs my memory of Havana Membership from the Nineteen Sixties. Feedback: what can I say, it’s no Port Ellen, however for grain whisky, it’s actually on the prime of the ladder. Or let’s say, the second rung.
SGP:630 – 82 factors. |
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Invergordon 27 yo 1997/2024 (52.2%, Dràm Mor, refill bourbon barrel, cask #300709, 218 bottles)
I’ve all the time discovered Invergordon to have a bit extra texture, even perhaps some additional richness in comparison with different Scottish grains, although I’ve by no means actually dug into why. Subsequent time I see Candy Richard P., I’ll need to ask. Color: white wine. Nostril: certainly, sunflower oil, peanut oil, toasted bread, plantain bananas, a little bit of engine grease, and even a touch of artichoke… All aromas you wouldn’t usually anticipate in a grain whisky. With water: a little bit of barbecue bacon—am I dreaming? Mouth (neat): it’s as mild as a grain ought to be, however there’s a contact of the liveliness you’d affiliate with a malt. Apples, lemons. The construction continues to be a bit fragile, although. With water: barley and agave syrups, vanilla, and apple juice. The feel stays mild, with faint touches of pineapple. End: fairly quick, candy, and liqueur-like. Coconut. Feedback: it’s grain, little doubt about that, however this isn’t Port Ellen both.
SGP:630 – 80 factors. |
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Port Dundas 23 yo 2000/2024 (62.2%, Frank McHardy, Signature Reserve, 270 bottles)
I discover it fairly amusing that the legendary Frank McHardy, who helped rework a small, forgotten distillery in Campbeltown into maybe the one 1er Grand Cru of Scotch, would select to bottle grain whiskies beneath his identify—grains being, in essence, the exact opposite of what Springbank stands for. Color: straw. Nostril: varnish and tinned peaches. It’s very delicate and fairly muted, regardless of the hefty 62.2%. With water: lemonade, 7up, and a faint chalky observe. Mouth (neat): ah, right here it opens up a bit extra. Lemon juice, sauvignon blanc, apricot, white peach juice, sugar syrup… With water: no actual change, however it’s fairly good. Apricot and peach syrup. End: predictably quick, however candy, cheerful, and nice, regardless of a late arrival of coconut milk. Feedback: Frank McHardy is Jimmy Web page for whisky lovers like me. To be sincere, these grains would rating round 75 factors of their primary variations—that’s, not rigorously chosen by an undisputed legend like him. However nonetheless, it’s grain whisky.
SGP:630 – 82 factors. |
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Girvan 26 yo 1997/2024 (46.5%, Frank McHardy, Signature Reserve, 230 bottles)
I’ve all the time discovered the latest official Girvans to be fairly poor and overpriced. I don’t suppose anybody, even in journey retail, may mistake grain for malt—or not less than be prepared to pay malt costs for grain. Color: white wine. Nostril: very mild, however impeccably clear. Apples and sunflower oil, white chocolate, dried flowers, some twigs and roots… Mouth: nice, mild, and really a lot on coconut milk and South American rum. Not notably expressive, however fairly soothing. End: pretty lengthy, with good notes of barley sugar. Sugary Easter eggs linger within the aftertaste. Feedback: positively superior to the official releases, particularly in comparison with the fairly terrifying ‘Girvan Patent Nonetheless’ from a couple of years again (WF 60).
SGP:730 – 81 factors. |
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Cameronbridge 31 yo 1992/2024 (51.5%, Frank McHardy, Signature Reserve, 234 bottles)
We’ve had some good Cameronbridges, I consider, although they’re not notably memorable. Color: gold. Nostril: ultra-light, virtually absent, although that’s not essentially a nasty factor. Some hints of coconut and bark, together with a contact of anise. With water: equally very mild, virtually diaphanous. Rainwater and white sugar. Mouth (neat): nice, with oranges and apples, plus a little bit of dill and liquorice. With water: the liqueur notes come ahead—orange, apple, perhaps even rum liqueur—adopted by barley and agave syrup. However it stays very mild, virtually ethereal. End: pretty quick, very ‘grain’. Feedback: the insufferable lightness of grain whisky. Critically although, it’s fairly very good.
SGP:630 – 82 factors. |
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Come on, let’s hit more durable…
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Invergordon 50 yo 1972/2023 ‘Clan McBean’ (42.9%, The Whisky Barrel, cask #TWB1034, 128 bottles) 
Effectively, it’s not as if we have to perceive each final element, however what we do know is that this can be a 50-year-old Invergordon, and relating to grain whiskies, the outdated Invergordons are unquestionably the cream of the crop. Color: gold. Nostril: completely pretty, with a delicate and treasured magnificence. You’ve obtained ripe apples, a contact of outdated white Burgundy (dare we are saying Meursault as soon as once more?), white chocolate, and people traditional Werther’s Originals. No signal of any sherry, however we’ll soldier on. Mouth: every part in delicate steadiness right here, maybe somewhat fragile resulting from its age, however what it presents is just pleasant. There’s white chocolate once more, alongside tiramisu, orange juice, coconut milk, and a few pretty mirabelles. Not overly highly effective however actually not weak both. End: longer than anticipated, with an intriguing mixture of cappuccino, coconut, and, would you consider, a touch of IPA beer. Feedback: really a whisky aside from the norm. In that sense, I can perceive why somebody would possibly affiliate it with the house race, in some roundabout method.
SGP:631 – 85 factors. |
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North British 30 yo 1993/2024 (52%, The Style of Whisky, refill sherry butt, cask #52169, 187 bottles) 
Ah, right here we go along with some sherry. I have to say, grain whisky actually does profit from a little bit of sherry cask affect (sure, I do know, we do are inclined to go on about that). Color: amber. Nostril: hints of gunpowder, walnut skins, and spent matches… With water: contemporary rubber. Mouth (neat): burnt caramel and a contact of truffle. With water: roasted chestnuts, toasted semolina, and inexperienced walnuts. End: lengthy, vegetal, burnt, and fairly bitter. The aftertaste is way nicer although, with notes of coconut balls and a touch of younger rancio. Feedback: I agree, one should know what they need relating to grain whisky. Both one thing fairly innocent however not all that fascinating, or one thing extra strong, like this one, however doubtless with a couple of apparent flaws. Maybe a little bit of a wild grain, suited extra to cursed poets than your on a regular basis drammer?
SGP:372 – 78 factors. |
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We have to cease this barely foolish session. Come on, only one extra…
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Cambus 34 yo 1989/2023 (58.9%, Alambic Classique, Uncommon & Outdated Choice, sherry cask, cask #23082, 169 bottles)
I am not completely certain we ought to be assigning areas to those grain whiskies—Highlands, Lowlands—it performs no actual half, solely provides confusion with our beloved malts. However let’s not go all crusader on this once more, we could? Color: gold. Nostril: not an excessive amount of depth, however there are some nice notes of hay and some wild raspberries. White chocolate with little bits of raspberry, and the worst half is, they promote that at Ikea—oh, the horror! It is known as ‘Belöning,’ what a humorous identify. Even expensive HP would not use it. With water: touches of steel (copper), natural teas, chamomile, hawthorn, thyme… Mouth (neat): ah sure, sure certainly, this might virtually cross for malt. Not a stellar malt, thoughts you, however not less than there’s some texture and spine. Overripe apples and a little bit of fermented orange juice. With water: some williams pear comes ahead and takes cost. There are worse candidates. End: pretty quick, not disagreeable. A couple of bits of zest. Feedback: it stays a grain whisky. Even at 34 years outdated, even by Alambic Classique, it is nonetheless grain, however it’s good.
SGP: 430 – 81 factors. |
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Word to self for the long run: it is nice to do grain tastings sometimes, however not more than 5 without delay and not more than as soon as 1 / 4 (the worst half is, we have nonetheless obtained masses left to style).
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Would you consider it, simply as we thought, we had extra grain whiskies within the queue. This time I promise we cannot have any extra for an extended whereas.
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North British 31 yo 1991/2023 (45%, Whisky Age, 1st fill barrel, 189 bottles)
Maybe a kind of first fill barrels that, within the old style method, have been softened or seasoned with grain earlier than getting used for the dear malt whiskies – after which ‘forgotten’. A way that appears fairly out of vogue lately. Color: white wine. Nostril: maintain on, one thing particular right here. Beautiful notes of Sauvignon Blanc and white currants, with a discreet trace of coconut and touches of fennel and dill. There’s additionally a little bit of moist chalk lingering within the background. A really fairly nostril certainly, and it was doubtless a superb thought to convey this right down to 45% ABV. Mouth: mullein flower liqueur and quince, then these dill notes return alongside a little bit of coconut from the first fill cask. You actually get the sense that the barrel has accomplished its job. End: medium in size, leaning a bit sweeter. Some Malibu, as an illustration, which could not be its greatest characteristic. Feedback: a tad candy for my style, however really a nice outdated grain.
SGP:630 – 82 factors. |
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Invergordon 36 yo 1988/2024 (48.7%, Cask 88 and Tiffany’s New York Bar Hong Kong, PX end, 240 bottles)
Color: mild gold. Nostril: pretty metallic notes, like outdated copper cash, and dried flowers, then a contact of PX certainly, however ‘seco’, which we love. Some fairly fantastic hints of carrots and celeriac, virtually like a top-notch rémoulade, together with cedarwood, humidors, and the like. It’s all fairly uncommon, however very charming. Ah, Invergordon (and PX)! Mouth: maybe a bit much less ‘idiosyncratic’—we do love that phrase—with a sure bitterness balanced by sweeter PX and vanilla notes. There’s additionally a fragile slice of buttered pumpernickel, excellent, together with Armagnac-soaked prunes and kirsch cherries. End: medium in size, with a contact of tobacco and nonetheless a little bit of sweetness. It stays very pleasurable. Feedback: some say that Invergordon, as soon as it reaches a sure age, turns into a little bit of a malt amongst grain whiskies, although I’m undecided that makes a lot sense.
SGP:641 – 86 factors. |
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Invergordon 37 yo 1986/2023 (46%, Whisky Dudes, refill butt + 1st fill PX quarter, cask #23654A, 203 bottles)
Color: copper gold. Nostril: an identical type to make certain, however this time with a bit extra incense, alongside peonies and dried flowers (together with rose petals). It’s additionally fairly earthy, like wealthy darkish potting soil, and ends with a touch of cedarwood that evokes an historical Buddhist temple. Time to cue up the Nice Compassion mantra, aka Da Bei Zhou… “I regularly adore the one who dispels all fears…” Mouth: very uncommon, deeply earthy, with mushrooms, espresso liqueur, chocolate, fermenting raisins, and roots, giving it a kind of ‘meditation whisky’ vibe—no matter that may imply. End: lengthy, with a fermenting high quality like a darkish Bière de Garde. Pure chocolate lingers within the aftertaste. Feedback: actually fairly uncommon, with that intensely earthy and considerably religious aspect.
SGP:551 – 86 factors. |
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Again to Girvan, which isn’t Invergordon (nicely noticed, S.).
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Girvan 27 yo 1996/2023 (55.1%, The Whisky Blues, hogshead, cask #37956, 301 bottles) 
Color: mild gold. Nostril: fairly mild, with notes of vanilla ice cream and some cherries. There’s a contact of contemporary wooden and a touch of autumn leaves. With water: sweetened white tea, if that have been ever wanted, with a drizzle of honey. Slightly blancmange, adopted by apples. Simply common apples, nothing fancy. Mouth (neat): oranges in brandy come to the rescue, whereas the background stays barely grassy, with fruit peelings. With water: it turns delicate, mild, mild, and really nicely balanced. The important thing level right here is that there’s no overpowering coconut or vanilla bomb to talk of. End: medium, candy, nonetheless on natural tea with honey. Feedback: an excellent Girvan this time, although it’s nonetheless very a lot within the ‘grain’ camp.
SGP:630 – 84 factors. |
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Girvan 26 yo 1997/2024 (57.6%, Whisky Dudes, hogshead + 1st fill amontillado, 194 bottles)
Ah, we do love Amontillado, do not we? What’s fairly exceptional is how the nice of us at William Grant appear to have no qualms about permitting the ‘Girvan’ identify on indie labels, regardless of guarding the likes of Glenfiddich, Balvenie, Kininvie, and even Ailsa Bay with the ferocity of a pack of Malinois fuelled on nothing however champagne. Color: gold. Nostril: oh, that is pretty—there’s beeswax and a tray of contemporary pollen, maybe from rockrose. Past that, you get the anticipated notes of vanilla and a little bit of desiccated coconut. With water: little hints of Dutch gin come by. Mouth (neat): ah, that Amontillado! I’d say it’s doing many of the heavy lifting right here, with notes of latte, touches of gentian, tobacco, cardamom, walnut wine, and a touch of orange. With water: caraway liqueur seems, together with some myrtle liqueur too. End: pretty lengthy, with that Amontillado espresso observe reigning supreme, and it does so splendidly. Feedback: have we maybe discovered the right use for wine casks, ending grain whiskies?
SGP:641 – 86 factors. |
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Fourteen drinks in two days are method an excessive amount of. I hope I have never talked an excessive amount of nonsense. Would you say so?
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