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| Hello, that is one in every of our (virtually) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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December 15, 2024
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A phrase of warning
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are performed from the viewpoint of a malt whisky fanatic who, what’s extra, is aboslutely not an skilled in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or some other spirits. Thanks – and peace! |
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Rums are
again on WF
The considerably synthetic, even absurd, development of “premiumisation” that has affected many single malt whiskies lately has led fairly just a few aficionados to partially shift their consideration in the direction of rums. True, the tide has been ebbing for a 12 months or two now, however rum’s buyer base has nonetheless expanded. There’s inevitably a ratchet impact—maybe small, however for my part, actual. Briefly, we’re most likely not all going to desert rum simply because the costs of single malt whisky are tumbling once more, generally as quickly as a lorry with no brakes careering down the Andes (what?). Anyway, let’s see what we’ve in retailer at present…
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The inevitable mizunara.
You can even purchase it right here. |
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The Duppy Share ‘Aged Caribbean Rum’ (40%, OB, Jamaica & Barbados, +/-2024) 
A severe aperitif, for as soon as, within the type of a stunning bottle, a mix of younger rums from Worthy Park and Foursquare, provided at a really well-considered value. Color: gold. Nostril: I discover you’ll be able to clearly sense each origins, with diesel oil and tar on one aspect, and orange cake and sugarcane on the opposite. These two or three little olives might come from both camp. Very nice, although barely mild on the nostril, possible because of the ABV, which shouldn’t intimidate anybody. Mouth: it’s good and really in line with the nostril. A little bit sugar (with out sweetness, if you understand what I imply) and loads of liquorice, brine, pineapple, papaya, and ultra-ripe bananas. Much more than ripe, actually. End: a bit too quick for the fanatic, although the profile stays nice. Feedback: a really good mix the place neither distillery really dominates. A bit extra punch would do it good.
SGP:542 – 80 factors. |
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J. Gow 3 yo ‘Revenge’ (43%, OB, Scotland, bourbon, +/-2024) 
Rum from Orkney, hooray! Alas, the phrase ‘impressed by pirates’ on the label is a bit alarming – as unhealthy because the Vikings – however that’s not what issues. Apart from, is there a single rum on this planet that doesn’t point out pirates? They’ve been making rum at J. Gow since 2017, and naturally, given the sugarcane harvests on Orkney are what they’re, molasses have to be imported. But it surely’s pot nonetheless! Color: white wine. Nostril: within the Jamaican model, with simply the correct quantity of ‘funk’, tar, seawater, salmiak, then a light-weight descent into softer, virtually floral aromas. A contact of heather, or are we dreaming? Mouth: delightfully saline, we’d even say insular. Beautiful salted liquorice, seawater, oysters, pepper… Nonetheless that funk – one may even consider the Common White Band, that nice Scottish funk band. End: pretty however a bit quick. Comparable aromas. Feedback: in actuality, this rum is produced on the tiny island of Lamb Holm within the Orkneys. I feel there’s loads of scope for a model at 50 or 57% ABV. In different phrases, at ‘pirate energy’. However really, after the rums from Islay and Ninefold, Scottish rums are on a roll.
SGP:453 – 84 factors. |
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Isautier 13 yo 2009 ‘La Cour’ (59%, OB, La Réunion, agricole, 2024) 
An previous distillery that was rebuilt after which renovated. We’ve already tasted some glorious ones. Color: darkish gold. Nostril: a lot of orange zest and cumin, fairly an uncommon mixture that works very properly. A slight cologne-like be aware, however in no way off-putting on this context—fairly the alternative. Very good earthy tones and loads of spices. With water: not a lot growth, only a contact gentler. Very good. Mouth (neat): very highly effective, nonetheless spicy, with cumin and caraway taking the lead, alongside orange marmalade. A bit tough, however that’s the alcohol. Mustard seed. With water: the sweetness of orange liqueur, candied ginger, and delicate mustard… Contemporary oak is a little bit noticeable, but it surely works, turning into even spicier. End: lengthy, with a return of earthy notes and a good looking honey that takes over. Feedback: I really feel that Isautier retains bettering, not less than in the case of these high-end bottlings. Very pretty spices.
SGP:561 – 87 factors. |
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Let’s keep within the Indian Ocean…
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Penny Blue 13 yo 2011/2024 (60%, OB, Mauritius, Foundations, oloroso sherry, cask #220, 126 bottles)
It’s Berry Bros. who develop the Penny Blue model, which is at all times a somewhat good signal, after all. The sherry? We’ll see… Color: caramel. Nostril: a complete lorry filled with Mars bars, plus a contact of prompt espresso, barely burnt walnut cake, and toffee. It’s higher than it sounds in these notes. With water: let’s title the model, Nescafé, together with a wee slice of Dundee orange marmalade (after all). Mouth (neat): a reasonably mild distillate wrapped in a really highly effective shell, so a lot of substance across the edges however a considerably fragile center—not essentially a flaw, thoughts you. Anyway, it’s very cask-driven (clearer now, isn’t it?). With water: it’s good, extra balanced, and oddly sufficient provides a greater texture. End: medium size, totally on pepper and marmalade. Feedback: excellent, but it surely suffers a bit after the Isautier, which has way more persona.
SGP:631 – 83 factors. |
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Since we’re within the space…
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Savanna 21 mo (58.2%, Poh ! Spirits, La Réunion, 140 bottles, 2024) 
A mix of conventional and grand arôme, aged 21 months in Sauternes. In any case, Savanna resists every little thing (wink). Color: pale white wine. Nostril: the alcohol comes via a bit, however mercurochrome, varnish, brine, and diesel shortly take over, whereas ripe banana and mirabelles usher in some fruit. There’s additionally a slight finger biscuit be aware. Beautiful. With water: the yeasty notes come to the forefront, to our nice delight. You may even discover a trace of peated beer. Mouth (neat): nobody can resist the grand arôme, although three litres of mirabelle and apricot eau-de-vie quickly come crashing via, Mad Max-style. But it surely’s one of many prettiest clashes possible. Apricots and olives? Who’d have thought. With water: what’s humorous is you’ll be able to’t fairly inform the place the flavours come from—the rum or the wine—it’s a little bit of a guessing recreation, however the result’s splendidly coherent. It’s glorious, actually, with some blood orange rising to the floor. End: lengthy, with small touches of rose liqueur. The worst half? It’s really completely scrumptious. Feedback: it’s not a lot how they made this that’s fascinating, however how they got here up with the thought. And the very fact they averted the potential entice of grand arôme + heavy Sauternes.
SGP:752 – 89 factors.
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New Yarmouth 19 yo 2005/2024 (55.8%, Vagabond Spirits, Silva Assortment, Jamaica, maple wooden end)
A 4-month ending in maple wooden. Absolutely a success in Quebec, however I’m not satisfied it might affect a New Yarmouth that a lot, absolutely loaded with all its attributes. Let’s see… Color: mild gold. Nostril: tabernak, that is pure Jamaican to this point—tar, carbon, acetone, rotting fruits, brine, olives, salty liquorice… With water: tarmac after a heavy tropical downpour. Mouth (neat): salty and lemony liquorice in abundance. Perhaps that lemony aspect—and people touches of limoncello—comes partly from the maple wooden, although I couldn’t say for certain. With water: I’m giving up the search right here; at most, I’d say there’s maybe a faint trace of added sweetness. Does dried maple wooden comprise a lot ‘sugary’ sap just like the syrup? End: lengthy, and certainly comparatively tender for a New Yarmouth. Feedback: it’s enjoyable and excellent. Virtually makes you wish to hearken to Céline, although we’d somewhat go together with Diane or Nanette.
SGP:752 – 87 factors. |
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Let’s keep it up with one thing extra ‘regular’ if you happen to don’t thoughts. Nicely, we’ll strive not less than…
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Neisson ‘ESB Mizunara’ (51.2%, OB, Martinique, agricole, natural, 2024)
You’re kidding—Neisson is doing Mizunara now? Everybody says it’s ‘a uncommon Japanese oak,’ however at this fee, there’ll quickly be no timber left standing. Significantly, it’s a kind of Quercus mongolica and is, based on Wikipedia, ‘broadly distributed in Northeast Asia.’ After all, bringing it to Martinique most likely isn’t nice for the carbon footprint, however let’s not nit-pick. At the very least there’s the Panama Canal. Color: straw. Nostril: properly, it’s pretty—frivolously toasted and honeyed, with limoncello desserts and a faint contact of fir buds. Nice. With water: comparable, however now extra cedar wooden, and even a contact of charcoal. Mouth (neat): very tender, with a slight tequila edge (from the Mizunara?) and a great deal of fir honeydew. A little bit of caraway and poppy seeds, plus some lemon. It’s actually good, although it’s beginning to really feel a bit like some spiced-up white rum. With water: identical, with added salty touches. Lemon blossom honey and seawater, although the proportions are nonetheless unclear. End: pretty lengthy, however the flavours begin to really feel a bit tiring—there’s a persistent sweetness that received’t let go. Feedback: it’s good, excellent—it’s Neisson, in any case—however to me, this seems like a somewhat anecdotal cuvée. Subsequent, amburana, I suppose.
SGP:641 – 80 factors. |
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HD 8 yo 2016/2024 (59.2%, The Whisky Jury, Jamaica, refill barrel, cask #101301, 269 bottles)
A ‘multimark’ HD. We’ve got no motive to suppose this isn’t Hampden, although whether or not it leans extra OWH or
SGP:651 – 86 factors. |
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TDL 31 yo 1991/2023 (62.7%, Distilia, The Golden Age of Piracy, Trinidad, cask #R2455, 205 bottles) 
A tribute to ‘Black Bart,’ a well-known pirate. Pirates, once more! This one spent 15 years in Trinidad (and Tobago—we at all times overlook Tobago). Color: gold. Nostril: this isn’t a kind of fruity bombs we love a lot (aka the Bushmills from the Caribbean), however somewhat a reasonably earthy and mentholated rum, not vastly expressive at this stage. At 62%, that’s fairly regular—it’s most likely a bit locked up. With water: hints of latest tyres, however nonetheless struggling to return out. No fruit, even with water. Mouth (neat): appears excellent, but it surely doesn’t actually really feel prefer it’s 31 years previous. It additionally feels just like the cask had a robust affect on the distillate, with a really distinguished ‘resinous’ aspect. It’s type of circling round turpentine territory. With water: significantly better, virtually a resurrection, however let’s not get carried away—there are numerous rums at the next stage inside Distilia. End: lengthy, however nonetheless with that odd candy rubber feeling. Feedback: we’ve lastly discovered a rum from Distilia that we don’t completely love… About time, actually.
SGP:661 – 79 factors. |
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Caroni 25 yo 1997/2022 (64.5%, The Colors of Rum, Trinidad, cask #6, 132 bottles)
It was about time we tasted this child that can most likely blow our heads off. Color: gold. Nostril: this can be a lighter Caroni by way of aromas, however after all, it’s highly effective in the case of ethanol. Maybe the 2 are related, aren’t they… With water: oh, how I like these new plastic notes from Temu, Want, or Aliexpress. Significantly, I am keen on them—I might order ineffective digital devices that don’t work in any respect simply to catch that scent while you open the parcel. However let’s not speak about phthalates and bisphenol in our tasting notes (too late, S.). Mouth (neat): fairly excellent, although quite simple at this energy. Bitter oranges, varnish, and a contact of tar. With water: pretty, somewhat balanced, probably not a rubber bomb, however I get pleasure from it quite a bit even when it’s maybe not a Caroni ‘+++’. End: lengthy. Paint, rubber, and a few finances orange liqueur. Feedback: that industrial vibe—no matter that actually means—at all times appeals to me, even when this isn’t one of many excessive Caronis. Nonetheless, it’s very, excellent.
SGP:563 – 88 factors. |
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Let’s head again to Jamaica to complete off…
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Secret Jamaica 9 yo 2015/2024 (50%, Relaxation & Be Grateful for Wu Dram Clan & Kirsch Import, 2 barrels) 
Nicely, they are saying it’s secret, however they add that it’s from a distillery in Lluidas Vale, the place, as everybody is aware of, there are 137 distilleries. After all, there’s just one: Worthy Park. Intelligent transfer to launch these semi-secret variations. We love Worthy Park. Color: mild gold. Nostril: rubber and brine upfront, then contemporary branches, contemporary almonds, hints of asparagus, new motor oil, and greenhouse vibes… It’s gorgeous, very elegant. With water: pleasant, with carbon paper, thermal paper, and low-tide seawater. Mouth (neat): how good is that this! There’s even a contact of Ardbeg (critically), lemon, seaweed, shells, contemporary tar, and a little bit of seawater. Nonetheless to resolve whether or not this water is from the Irish Sea or the Caribbean. With water: now simply good. Bitter almonds, orgeat, salted lemon (no points there), and even a touch of peat. Yep. End: lengthy, contemporary, salty, maritime. Feedback: let me puff up my chest a bit right here—it’s essential to nail your dilution completely to hit 90, as we simply did. With lowering water amount and high quality actually matter, yep.
SGP:453 – 90 factors. |
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Nicely, since we’re at WP (theoretically)…
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Lluidas Vale 7 yo 2015/2024 (63.1%, The Duchess, Jamaica, cask #18, 243 bottles)
240–360g ester/HLPA right here (marque WPH), which is comparatively mild, although not too mild. Certainly, it’s WP. Let me say it once more—manufacturers that block independents from utilizing their names are taking pictures themselves within the foot, slowly fading out of relevance amongst aficionados. This has already occurred with many malt whiskies that youthful fanatics don’t even find out about (sure, there are younger malt whisky fanatics!), and it will be a disgrace if rum manufacturers adopted the identical path. Simply my humble opinion: no visibility, no picture. Color: white wine. Nostril: the purity at Lluidas Vale is at all times somewhat placing (no model names allowed, proper). Right here we’re deep into industrial harbour water, tar, contemporary oysters, and inexperienced olives—two olives, no extra. With water: carbon paper, wax paper, wallpaper glue… Mouth (neat): this Lluidas Vale is so good! Even at 63%. Filled with ashes, lime, liquorice wooden, extra ashes, and a contact of mint oil… With water: unimaginable purity, fruity salinity, exact aromas—olives, anchovies, asparagus, lemon… End: lengthy however fairly tender, exact, virtually refreshing, virtually like a dry martini with Noilly Prat. The London consultants will get it. A faint trace of strawberry cream on the very finish—some peculiar molecule at play right here. Feedback: I’ve at all times been an enormous fan of Lluidas Vale—convey on the following Lluidas Vale!
SGP:463 – 90 factors. |
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 Verify the index of all rums we have tasted to this point
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