Again in January 2024, I took half in a three-day Decanter panel tasting of NZ Sauvignons that highlighted stark contrasts in craftsmanship and magnificence. It left me pondering: has the magic of New Zealand, and particularly Marlborough, pale?
It’s a good query. The success of NZ Sauvignon Blanc on a worldwide scale mirrors the rise – and subsequent fall – of Australian Chardonnay within the early 2000s. Again then, the market was flooded with low-cost, overly oaked examples that sullied the fame of Australian Chardonnay. In New Zealand’s case, mass manufacturing and homogenised flavours threaten to undermine the onerous work of artisanal producers.
This yr, I visited New Zealand to discover this divide – the story of two Sauvignons – for myself. On one hand, you may have the high-volume grocery store labels; on the opposite, you discover small-scale winemakers pouring ardour and precision into their craft.
Richard Ellis, winemaker at The Marlborist, supplied some perception. ‘We’re on a journey,’ he stated. ‘Final yr, I labored in Sancerre to refine our method. By specializing in the most effective websites, soil sorts and cover administration, we’re evolving the model – handpicking and deciding on golden bunches to maneuver away from the overly inexperienced, natural profiles that folks affiliate with Marlborough. The heavier soils of the Southern Valleys have been a revelation.’
His phrases resonated with what I discovered, particularly in Marlborough – that clear divide between mass manufacturing and high quality craftsmanship. Poor practices threat making a wave of negativity round NZ Sauvignon Blanc – a cautionary story for producers aiming to uphold its proud heritage.
Winemakers are exploring new horizons, embracing methods resembling barrel fermentation, oak ageing and wild yeast to raise their wines, bringing texture, complexity and a richer flavour profile that appeals to extra discerning palates.
This evolution has been formed by each world inspiration and native innovation, as Sam Bennett, chief winemaker at te Pā Household Vineyards, explains: ‘We like wine, and we like good Sauvignon Blanc, so we’ve got after all admired a few of the nice examples popping out of the Loire. We share their perception that Sauvignon Blanc as a range could make nice wines with purity and drive, whereas possessing layers and texture – and most of all enhance with age.
‘At te Pā, we’ve all the time tried to make wines that specific our winery websites – and we’re assured sufficient within the high quality of those websites that the wines don’t all the time must be the loudest or most fragrant within the room,’ he continues. ‘We get a lot fruit expression that dialling that again a bit to deal with class and texture ends in wines which can be extra balanced, extra pleasurable to drink and age extra gracefully.’
Winemakers stay justifiably involved concerning the reputational dangers posed by low-quality, mass-produced examples. As one put it:
‘The unhealthy eggs threat placing drinkers off, embarrassing those that dare to serve New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.’ This underlines the necessity to champion the producers combating to protect the model’s integrity.
Haysley MacDonald, founder and proprietor at te Pā, takes it additional, bemoaning the variety of giant, overseas-owned wine companies taking and utilizing New Zealand – particularly Māori – names and icons, even on wine that isn’t from New Zealand. This doesn’t assist to guarantee customers of the standard, provenance and authenticity of what they’re shopping for.
Regardless of my preliminary scepticism, my latest experiences have reignited my optimism for NZ Sauvignon Blanc. The dedication of small-scale
winemakers to high quality and creativity is inspiring. The gulf between the mass-market and boutique producers is obvious, however the latter’s efforts are proving that Marlborough – and New Zealand as an entire – nonetheless has loads of magic left.
In my glass this month
Whereas travelling the size of New Zealand, I quickly realised that Sauvignon Blanc additionally thrives outdoors Marlborough. Te Kano, Land Northburn Sauvignon Blanc, Central Otago 2022 is textured, with a burst of untamed herbs and keenness fruit, saline, mineral, contemporary citrus and mandarin notes, mild stone fruit, a contact of brioche. Actual class. Drink now or age for as much as 5 years.
