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Dwelling
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| Hello, that is one among our (virtually) each day tastings. Santé! |
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June 15, 2025
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Right this moment we’re having a number of extra cognacs and armagnacs only for enjoyable
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Briefly, a cheerful mixture of grape-based drinks, beginning with an outdated cognac as an apéritif, since we’d actually loved the Rémy Martin Centaure final Sunday. After which we’ll have a bunch of malternatives…
By the best way, since an increasing number of folks are actually utilizing the time period ‘malternative’, I’d wish to remind everybody that initially, Michael Jackson—adopted by the Malt Maniacs and thus Whiskyfun—used it to explain aged spirits of ample high quality to rival high Scottish malts. It was by no means meant to refer to simply any cognac, armagnac, rum or tequila!
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Camus ‘Grand V.S.O.P.’ (40%, OB, La Grande Marque, cognac, +/-1980) 
This expression was mentioned to be 100% Borderies, though such a declare is nowhere to be discovered on this outdated square-shouldered bottle. On its web site, the still-independent home boldly declares, ‘We produce the best cognac on the planet, for many who savour probably the most refined issues in life.’ We’re very happy to take their phrase for it.
Color: deep gold.
Nostril: it’s actually charming, reasonably pure too so no egregious adulteration, with a pleasing trio of sentimental apples, oranges and peaches, rounded off with the anticipated raisins and a few reasonably fetching honeyed touches. It’s genuinely recent and interesting, and it has held its personal splendidly in glass these previous 45 years.
Mouth:: a really faint caramelly word this time, together with extra raisins than on the nostril, a barely syrupy corn sweetness, hints of espresso and orange liqueurs… Nonetheless fairly engaging but it surely does appear a tad ‘boosted’. Who is aware of…
End: reasonably lengthy but nonetheless carried by caramel and people liqueur-like tones. Slightly aftertaste of pear lingering within the distance.
Feedback: Maybe a contact ‘an excessive amount of’ by right now’s requirements, but it surely’s nonetheless genuinely good.
SGP:641 – 78 factors. |
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Camus ‘V.S. de Luxe’ (40%, OB, cognac, +/-2000) 
A mix of Borderies and Fins Bois this time round. Regardless of the ‘De Luxe’ moniker, it was extra of an entry-level providing, so expectations stay modest.
Color: gold.
Nostril: effectively, this isn’t dangerous in any respect, extra on the herbaceous facet, considerably akin to a marc or grappa, with a marked vivacity leaning in the direction of lemon and orange. Fairly good!
Mouth: the mysteries of outdated bottles! I really favor this one, it’s livelier and tauter, nonetheless on pretty citrus notes, a number of touches of lime blossom, inexperienced tea, and even a barely mineral edge. And it does really feel distinctly stronger than the acknowledged 40%.
End: reasonably lengthy, virtually a contact aggressive, would you consider. A bit chalky and nonetheless pleasantly grassy within the aftertaste.
Feedback: a captivating little shock.
SGP:551 – 80 factors. |
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Let’s get again to our typical malternatives…
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Maison Prunier 1992/2024 (56.4%, Artwork Malts, The Classic Reserve, bons bois) 
What’s featured on the label bears greater than a passing resemblance to a McLaren F1 from the identical 12 months—right here’s hoping this little Bons Bois neither veers off observe nor breaks down (S.!).
Color: gold.
Nostril: pretty pressure immediately, varnish, lemon juice, cider, white peaches, with a faintly mashy but curiously minty edge… With water: oh, the fantastic medley of all types of mint…
Mouth (neat): I’m smitten! A flawless mixture of robust liquorice, cider apples and grapefruit, with a little bit of white nougat within the background including a contact of softness. An outstanding Bons Bois. With water: actually magnificent, nonetheless with that vibrant pressure, now on dainty, treasured citrus fruits. Treasured certainly…
End: lengthy and good, virtually refreshing, which makes this little quantity all of the extra harmful in the event you’re not cautious (like that F1 I suppose). A return of varnish, even a contact of outdated kirsch within the aftertaste.
Feedback: however crikey, solely 36 bottles? Life might be terribly unfair…
SGP:561 – 91 factors. |
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Garreau 32 yo 1992/2025 (52.6%, Liquid Treasures, Bas-armagnac, Assortment du Chai Doré, Bar Arrangé fifth Anniversary, Korea)
Splendid label, most soothing in these turbulent instances (actually).
Color: deep gold.
Nostril: oh trouble, we’re flying very, very excessive once more, with splendid varnishes and oil paint proper off the bat, then an orchestration of peaches and apricots to make the botanical gardens of any European capital flip resentful. Type of. Effectively, you get the image. Deeper down, faint notes of recreation and woodland mushrooms with a splash of balsamic remind us we’re certainly in armagnac territory. With water: we drift in the direction of manzanilla-like notes, fairly unimaginable.
Mouth (neat): the oak could be very pronounced however most wonderful, assuming you’ve no quarrel with tobacco, buds, leaves, nuts, citrus peel, even a number of salty touches. With water: what construction!
End: lengthy and gently pastry-like. Butter cream with walnuts, and all the time that attractive outdated oak.
Feedback: we bow down, that is eminently and completely malternative.
SGP:562 – 91 factors. |
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Jean-Luc Pasquet 29 yo (49.9%, OB for Balkan Whisky Membership, 28 bottles)
The enjoyment of micro-bottlings. We do come throughout fairly a number of JL Pasquets in our cognac classes, however as I typically say, there are fairly a number of Porsches at Le Mans too. Oh, by no means thoughts… (and by no means drink and drive). I’m informed it is a High quality Champagne.
Color: deep gold.
Nostril: reasonably oily on the nostril, extra elegant than showy, beginning with sesame and grape seed oil, then unfolding into a reasonably protracted fruity enlargement—small apples first, then the anticipated apricots and peaches, adopted by recent almonds, orgeat, stone kernels and so forth.
Mouth (neat): an amusing begin on pear and rowanberry eau-de-vie, even one thing like undiluted marc de gewurz, earlier than it shifts in the direction of one thing a contact extra honeyed and waxier. It hasn’t fairly shed its youthful vigour. With water (simply to see): a light-weight contact of Swiss apricotine, nonetheless with that persistent stone kernel word. Beware apricot stones! (we digress) …
End: reasonably lengthy, nonetheless fairly ‘eau-de-vie’, which in fact is a advantage in the event you’re Alsatian.
Feedback: very good as soon as once more, only a tad extra restrained.
SGP:551 – 90 factors. |
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.jpg "Domaine de Mouréou 1988/2025 (45.8%, Authentic Spirits, Bas-armagnac)")
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Domaine de Mouréou 1988/2025 (45.8%, Genuine Spirits, Bas-armagnac) 
100% Baco. We beforehand encountered a younger and reasonably funky Mouréou 2011 from Genuine Spirits that was nothing wanting a firecracker (WF 88). This one ought to—may—be just a little extra civilised.
Color: amber.
Nostril: I don’t imply to go all bargain-bin poetic on you, however the whole panorama pretty leaps out at you. Hay, mushrooms, pine, bark, the odd hedgerow fruit, particularly plums… After which there’s a faint echo of rustic native white wine, the type one downs by the hectolitre each night in South-Western cafés—even within the capital.
Mouth: a correct nation armagnac, rough-hewn, strong, virtually tart (however delightfully so), nonetheless near the grape regardless of all these years, and brimming with orchard fruits straight from the Gers. Certainly, it’s arduous to think about something extra ‘genuine’.
End: amusingly, it’s right here that it begins to mellow out a contact, with even a number of notes of vanilla and comfortable liquorice, beneath the thick plum jam. Buds and sprigs lingering within the aftertaste.
Feedback: the additional 23 years make no distinction—it stands shoulder to shoulder with final 12 months’s 2011 on the identical (very excessive) stage.
SGP:561 – 89 factors. |
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Marquestau 25 yo 1998/2024 (51.7%, Grape of the Artwork, Bas-armagnac, cask #225, 310 bottles)
100% Baco as soon as once more, and yet one more domaine new to me (although I stay an everlasting newcomer). They’re based mostly in Hontanx, Landes.
Color: amber.
Nostril: it’s wealthy and woody, in a correct conventional type, what one may name ‘restaurant armagnac’. There’s a vinous edge to it, virtually Pauillac-like in some respects, and heaps of prunes with little earthy touches all through. Pine forest after the rain. With water: damp soil, woodland, pinecones, humus. And actually, how may one be towards any of that?
Mouth (neat): nonetheless wealthy, highly effective, woody and conventional, very near pipe tobacco, orange marmalade and occasional. You’d swear there have been even garlicky cèpes in there. With water: a miracle! The clouds half and immediately you’re handed a fantastical cocktail of chartreuse, Bénédictine and Verveine du Velay.
End: lengthy, fragrant and natural (with water).
Feedback: the influence of only a few drops of water right here is each maximal and spectacular.
SGP:461 – 90 factors (solely 87 with out water, so do strive it with!)
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Hontambère 45 yo 1980/2025 (45.4%, OB, Chosen by RAC Spirits, Ténarèze, cask #A10, 80 bottles)
A Pouchégu 100% Ugni Blanc with textbook ageing—beginning in new Limousin oak earlier than shifting to ‘roux’ or ‘purple’ oak, that means refill. Precisely what our mates in whisky must be doing as effectively, reasonably than the opposite manner spherical. I do know, I do know, right here I am going once more…
Color: darkish purple amber.
Nostril: chic balsamic notes, tinned prunes, black truffle, ripe banana and pipe tobacco. A marvel of compactness and coherence (certainly, even the ripe banana), not a lot else so as to add at this stage.
Mouth: ah, the outdated Ténarèze after they determine to grab management of your palate and your tastebuds! The oak is outstanding once more, however bolstered by soy sauce, crème de menthe glaciale, in fact fir sap and bud, earlier than it ventures into the realms of outdated oloroso, historical madeira, mature Catalan rancio and even these very highly effective black teas. That is all pretty explosive and we do advise a ‘drop by drop’ method to tasting. Thank me later.
End: lengthy, dry, targeting tea tannins and bitter chocolate, however rounded out with a splendid minty liquorice and just a little orange marmalade to log out.
Feedback: a correct time machine, straight again to the times of The Stranglers, Elvis Costello, Speaking Heads, Pere Ubu, and since we’re in France, Gainsbourg and Bashung… Extreme and fully mad!
SGP:571 – 91 factors. |
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It is time to convey this celestial experience to an finish (wait, what?).
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Aurian 1930 (42.5%, OB, chosen by Spheric Spirits, armagnac, bonbonne #D8)
It goes with out saying how shifting it’s to style such an outdated Armagnac.
Color: reddish amber.
Nostril: sheer delicacy from the outset, all on stewed fruits, medlars, apples, quinces, plums of each persuasion, peaches too, interwoven with outdated candy wines, Marsala, Port, honeys and mild resins, adopted by faint but elegant inklings of ham and mushrooms, although all the time with decorum and gentleness.
Mouth: I dare say whoever determined to deal with this venerable Armagnac in glass demijohns knew precisely what they had been doing. It had begun to whisper considerably, with a fruitiness leaning in the direction of herbs, broths, a contact of hay, historical waxes, the faintest suggestion of brine, and only a wisp of paper and cardboard… But it stays completely lovely, with an rising profusion of raisins of all types, as if it had been stirring anew after its lengthy slumber.
End: not precisely protracted, however reasonably unique nonetheless, reminiscent maybe of a Thai broth laced with fruit. One even detects just a little coriander and Thai basil.
Feedback:: these very outdated spirits turn out to be totally charming as age takes its rightful maintain. Fairly shifting certainly… By the best way this child spent 70 years in wooden and 23 years in a demi-john.
SGP:451 – 88 factors.
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