I have joked within the previous concerning the peeled flesh of a baked aubergine and the way, when sitting in a sieve balanced over the sink, it appears like a moist, grubby dishcloth. Properly, per week or so in the past, I lived this joke once I reached for a dishcloth that was, quite oddly, sitting on a plate, and for a nanosecond I assumed that issues actually had reached a low for the fabric to be not simply grubby, however slimy. That was earlier than I realised I used to be about to select up an aubergine and future baba ganoush.
Different issues occurred that night, too, and ultimately the aubergine was put in Tupperware with some peeled cloves of garlic and a squeeze of lemon (which I hoped would possibly protect it), and the field put within the fridge. It shouldn’t be a confession for a meals author whose job is to be resourceful, however I’m going to confess it anyway: each time I put sealed Tupperware within the fridge, I’m wondering if it should get out in time. Very often, it doesn’t, which additionally confirms a buddy’s statement that placing Tupperware within the fridge is the equal of telling somebody you’ll name them again, then forgetting. Fortunately, this field did come out in time (the very subsequent day, in truth), and the contents – which nonetheless seemed like a dishcloth, however a welcome one – had virtually turn out to be baba ganoush.
It was lunchtime, and we had a packet of gnocchi to eat up. That was the rationale I heated all the pieces up, mashed the fillets of aubergine with a fork, took out the peeled garlic, minced it and combined it in with pink chilli flakes and a bit extra lemon juice, then tossed the lot via cooked gnocchi. We loved the just about velvet-like dishcloth cream a lot that I made one thing related just a few days later, solely this time cooking cubed aubergine in a frying pan. I’ve additionally roasted it, and I hope somebody will give me notes about air-frying some, too. Nonetheless you prepare dinner the aubergine, although, keep in mind that the purpose is a mushy, beige cream, and so as to add chilli, garlic and lemon to style, whereas retaining in thoughts that will probably be combined with gnocchi (shop-bought or home made) or pasta (fusilli, mafalde, ridged tubes).
I counsel topping this with grated salted ricotta as a result of it goes so effectively with aubergine – plus I’m pondering of pasta alla Norma and different Sicilian dishes. That stated, parmesan, pecorino, grana padano or a spoonful of bizarre ricotta (wherein case, add a little bit of lemon zest, too) will work simply as effectively, together with extra chilli flakes or just a few turns of black pepper.
Gnocchi or pasta with aubergine, pink chilli, lemon and salted ricotta
Serves 4
1 massive or 2 medium aubergines
4-6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Dried pink chilli flakes
1-2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
A squeeze of lemon juice
Salted ricotta, or parmesan or pecorino, grated, to serve
400-500g gnocchi or pasta (fusilli, mafalde, ridged tubes)
Use a potato peeler to pare strips off the aubergine, so it appears like a zebra crossing. Reduce the aubergine into 2cm chunks, put them in a bowl and toss with olive oil and a very good pinch of salt.
You now have two decisions. The primary is to fry the aubergine cubes in a big frying pan over a medium-low warmth, transferring them round commonly, till they begin softening. Then add a touch of water and canopy so that they half-fry/half-braise, till very mushy. Add a beneficiant pinch of chilli flakes, the garlic, a squeeze of lemon juice and a bit extra oil and salt, in case you assume it wants it. Cook dinner for a minute extra, so it’s creamy not watery.
The opposite means is to unfold the aubergine cubes on a baking tray and bake at 170C (150C fan)/340F/fuel 3½ for 20-Half-hour, turning midway, till mushy and just a bit golden (you don’t need them to be crisp). Tip the cubes right into a frying pan, mash gently and, as earlier than, add a beneficiant pinch of chilli flakes, the garlic, a squeeze of lemon and a bit extra olive oil and salt in case you assume it wants it. Cook dinner for a minute extra, so the combination is creamy and never watery.
In the meantime, prepare dinner the gnocchi or pasta in loads of fast-boiling salted water till al dente, then drain or raise straight into the aubergine pan. Toss effectively, then divide between plates and serve topped with grated cheese and extra chilli flakes or black pepper.
