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| Hello, that is one among our (virtually) every day tastings. Santé! |
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September 15, 2024
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It is grand and grander Cognac Sunday at WF
We’ll attempt to keep away from a vertical tasting this time, although we hardly ever handle it, however let’s give it a go at random. Nicely, once I say ‘at random’, we’ll nonetheless give attention to the ‘good small producers’ and, as traditional, keep away from the mainstream. In any case, the mainstream isn’t that eager, its scouts hardly ever make it to Château Whiskyfun, and also you definitely received’t catch me going off to trace them down right here or there. In addition to, do not forget that our fundamental objective is to search out ‘malternatives’.
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Heather honey
(Domaine Apicole de Chezelles) |
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Frapin ‘Further’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2024) 
A venerable cognac, solely from their very own property, distilled on its lees. The 40% ABV and old-school presentation definitely lean into the ‘retro’ aesthetic, but it surely’s rumoured this grand outdated bottle comprises spirits as much as forty or fifty years outdated, although nothing is explicitly said. Let’s take pleasure in it. Color: deep gold. Nostril: we’re fairly near the vine right here, with a honeyed facet and a whiff of Sémillon. The standard suspects of tinned peaches and apricots are current, adopted by sultanas and a bag of liquorice allsorts, with some cedarwood and a contact of incense rounding it off. Delicate and stylish, if a tad conventional and, certainly, slightly retro. Mouth: very mushy, delicate, with out a lot oomph or zing, however this smoothness is fairly charming. It’s all about raisins, peach, candy dessert wine, and a touch of tobacco. Alas, it fades a bit too rapidly, at the least for a malt fanatic. End: very brief, barely resinous with oak, and a bit irritating. Some apricots, sultanas, a contact of caramel, and some orange zests. Feedback: at the least they didn’t end it in mizunara. Critically, it’s actually good, even excellent, simply… a contact irritating.
SGP: 6541 – 85 factors. |
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Famille Cabanne ‘Lot no.100’ (46.2%, The Whisky Jury, a centesimal launch, Grande Champagne, 199 bottles) 
All rijks, I imply, all proper! (not very humorous, S.) The spirits from The Whisky Jury by no means fail to impress, and this a centesimal launch guarantees to be much more so, because it appears to carry a cognac from Cabanne that’s 100 years outdated or extra. We’re not solely certain if it spent all these years in wooden—maybe a while in demi-johns, however maybe not. Possibly we’ll discover out, however within the meantime… Color: reddish amber. Nostril: good heavens, what a nostril! Extremely fragrant but with out a hint of vulgarity—fairly the other—with a touch of outdated Sauternes, broom flowers, honeysuckle, and dozens of various sorts of honey. Then, lastly, slightly spoonful of apricot jam, like a diamond nestled in a golden diadem (getting carried away, am I?). A couple of extra humble pine needles spherical off the nostril. Mouth: the magic of time. There’s nonetheless firmness, with these barely resinous notes that include nice age, but additionally a cascade of dried and cooked fruits, led by sultanas and, as typically, peach liqueur and apricot jam. Magnificent notes of small dried figs, with a contact of argan oil including construction within the background. End: medium size however agency, all the time with that chic steadiness of pine and sultanas. Completely ripe yellow peach and slightly espresso carry up the rear with aptitude. Feedback: I used to be tempted to provide this 100-year-old an ideal 100 factors for the a centesimal anniversary, and let’s say I symbolically do, however strictly talking, we’re nearer to a really excessive…
SGP: 661 – 92 factors. |
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I discover it fairly amusing that, for instance, for the worth of 1 bottle of a 58 year-old, fairly dispensable family-owned outdated Speyside malt, you might deal with your self to precisely 100 (100) bottles of the 1965 we’re about to style.
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Les Grandes Jouberteries ‘Lot 65’ (49.5%, Genuine Spirits, Fins Bois, +/-2024)
We’re in Val des Vignes, and this Fins Bois is 100% ugni blanc. Color: deep gold. Nostril: magnificent, with extra give attention to fruit skins, liquorice wooden, ripe apple, and chestnut honey. There’s even a faint whiff of sea air, which is curious given we’re 100 kilometres from the ocean. Good, in its chic simplicity. Mouth: it definitely does not really feel its fifty years. There is a fantastic rigidity right here, with oranges, apples, and peaches on the forefront, and never a single raisin in sight. As a substitute, we get these dried and preserved apricots all of us adore—oh, and in jam kind too. I additionally sense tiny saline notes mingling with liquorice and only a trace of lavender liqueur. Solely a contact, although. End: lengthy, recent, and virtually a bit malty. Cinnamon biscuits. Feedback: a dram of nice magnificence, with good rigidity and a touch of acidity akin to a effective white wine. You may virtually drink it with oysters—Arcachon, naturally.
SGP:661 – 91 factors. |
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One other Fins Bois (and I promise we received’t speak about pushy outdated malts any extra at the moment) …
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Marie Foucher ‘La Découverte Lot 77’ (51.74%, Malternative Belgium, Fins Bois, 396 bottles, 2024) 
This time we discover ourselves in Foussignac, whereas 1977 recollects none apart from Speaking Heads, and in France, Cerrone (gasp…). Color: deep gold. Nostril: a compact affair at first, all about almond croissants dripping in honey, then a splash of orange liqueur. A drop of water ought to liven issues up a bit… With Water: sure, certainly, extra layers of honey emerge, alongside roasted peanuts and cashews, praline, a touch of orange blossom, dried pear, and figs. Mouth (neat): very exact and extremely recent, brimming with citrus. Orange liqueur dominates, with a delicate nod to elderflower liqueur (although the elderflower stays in test, fortunately). With Water: a contact of oak peeks by, adopted by natural teas, black tea, and a faint tannic edge. End: lengthy, with numerous citrus zests, whereas black tea lingers boldly within the aftertaste. Feedback: Cognac and water aren’t all the time the best pair, however this can be a really glorious cognac regardless.
SGP:561 – 89 factors. |
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Laurichesse ‘Les Jeux de Fruits Lot 75’ (46.8%, Malternative Belgium and Maltopedia China, Grande Champagne, 528 bottles, 2024)
A intelligent play on phrases between ‘jus de fruits’ (fruit juice) and ‘jeux de fruits’ (fruit video games). Color: amber. Nostril: it’s a sluggish construct, not rapid, it takes its time, beginning off charmingly fruity (peaches) after which changing into much more advanced whereas staying compact. In any case, coherent – if that is smart? So, peaches, guava, orange blossom, North African pastries, then blood oranges, hints of mango, and even a contact of agricole rum within the model of J.M. – I promise you. Mouth: pencils down, sermon over. Peaches, mangos, outdated Bushmills, outdated Littlemill, outdated Lochside, outdated Balblair (S., didn’t we are saying no extra malt speak at the moment?). It’s as if this fruit bomb had spent a little bit of time in new American oak, although we extremely doubt it. Both approach, it’s merely unbeatable, nothing to be achieved however bow down. End: the identical. Recent, with liquorice within the aftertaste. Feedback: ‘Jeux de Fruits,’ certainly! A very lovely cognac, on the very high. Just one flaw – you already know every part from its title; no must even style it. Simply kidding.
SGP:751 – 92 factors. |
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Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Lot 73’ (48.3%, OB for WhiskyJace, Grande Champagne, 2024)
The home of J-L Pasquet continues to grace the world with its marvellous cognacs, both immediately or by impartial bottlers throughout the globe who’re extremely discerning of their choices (finish of the advert; worth: a small glass of chilled pineau, please). Color: amber. Nostril: this one feels a contact riper than the others, leaning in the direction of overripe apple, medlar, and even some frozen service tree fruit, giving it a delicate outdated Meursault vibe, which is, after all, excessive reward. Hints of orange zest, orgeat, and almond milk observe. Mouth: just like the earlier with only a tad extra oak, which interprets into Earl Gray and chamomile. In any other case, the acquainted guava, apple, mango, liquorice, fir bud liqueur, and a drop of muscat make their look. End: fairly lengthy, a bit extra peppery, with attainable hints of quinine. Orange peels and pine needles march alongside within the aftertaste. Feedback: only a tiny bit extra wooden within the aftertaste, however nonetheless a enormously glorious cognac.
SGP:651 – 90 factors. |
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Mauxion 1960/2024 (42%, OB for Ardour for Whisky, Fins Bois, 78 bottles)
A small outturn, however from a grand classic, mine. Certainly, that foolish joke everybody’s all the time doing. Color: deep gold. Nostril: meadow honey, peaches in syrup, hints of rosewood, a faint contact of beeswax polish, a whisper of beech smoke, and a few beeswax. The steadiness is ideal, virtually deceptively easy resulting from its flawlessness. Mouth: teas and pink peppercorns, citrus peel, peach pores and skin, adopted by fig wine, arrack, natural teas, and mullein syrup… This lot has turned ever so barely lighter, maybe lacking a little bit of kick, however the profile stays completely fantastic. End: medium size, very a lot centered on natural teas. Verbena, raisins, hints of strawberry, with only a contact of tea and cardboard within the aftertaste. Feedback: it feels as if it’s bidding us farewell on the palate, which is fairly shifting. I feel it was captured at simply the fitting second. Nonetheless chic, like an excellent actress in her twilight years (you realize what I imply).
SGP:541 – 89 factors. |
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Lets attempt some actually outdated ones once more? As an instance, to have a good time the strategy of autumn.
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Tiffon ‘T.V.RES.’ (43.6%, Malternative Belgium for The Antelope Macau and Kanpaikai Japan, Grande Champagne, 2023)
We might attempt to guess what ‘TV RES’ stands for, however we received’t trouble – the names Tiffon and Malternative Belgium are sufficient to go by. All proper, perhaps ‘Très Vieille Réserve’? The type of phrase that hardly ever means a lot however is all the time endearing. Color: glowing amber. Nostril: it comes throughout as evenly jammy, with sultanas, mirabelle plum and damson jam, then a fragile contact of menthol and earthy tones. A little bit of pipe tobacco, damp potting soil, prunes… I’d even dare to say there’s a touch of outdated Armagnac, however after all, that’s inconceivable. Mouth: related emotions. Notes of outdated wooden, tobacco, a leathery high quality, darkish chocolate, menthol, countryside black tea, and liquorice wooden… It’s lovely, very completely different from the others, and maybe fairly historical. A touch of very outdated pu-ehr tea begins to emerge. End: medium in size however with a splendid earthy high quality. Chocolate, prunes, and peppermint lingering within the aftertaste. Feedback: sure, it does really feel very outdated. It’s beautifully, beautifully good, in a method fairly distinct from all of the others, maybe extra traditional.
SGP:562 – 90 factors. |
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Mauxion ‘Lot 36’ (43.2%, OB for Ardour for Whisky, Borderies, 2024)
Nicely, right here we’re, skipping proper over the Second World Warfare, and we discover ourselves within the Borderies – the ‘frontiers’. Eighty years in cask, adopted by just some years in a demijohn to take pleasure in a well-earned paradise. I have to say, it’s all the time a shifting expertise to style cognacs that ‘might have been sipped with out a second thought throughout the battle, but narrowly escaped that destiny’. Color: gold. Actually not darkish. Nostril: oh, how pretty that is! Moss, ferns, mushrooms, mint, camphor, melon, overripe apples, and people eternal honeys… do you know honey is the best-preserved natural product of all? Mouth: fairly unbelievable how recent it’s after 80 years in cask. The honeys and ripe fruits are staggeringly vibrant—apples, melons, peaches after all—adopted by earth, tobacco, verbena, mint, anise, gentian, bergamot, a contact of mead, and even, for enjoyable, a drop of Buckfast tonic wine. Actually. End: fantastically lengthy, with out the slightest trace of misplaced wooden. Roasted and caramelised pecans within the aftertaste. Feedback: astonishingly recent and exact in spite of everything these years. The successive cellar masters who oversaw this cask did a top-notch job, until it’s all right down to luck. If that’s the case, hooray for luck! Let’s not overlook the final word rule everybody’s missed: with regards to maturation, the most effective technique is usually ‘to do nothing in any respect’ as outdated managers used to assert, although that’s change into hardly fashionable. Lengthy reside the passing of time!
SGP:651 – 93 factors. |
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All of it comes down to at least one final one…
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Vallein Tercinier 1935/2024 (47%, OB for Kirsch Import, Petite Champagne)
Now, this charming drop was transferred to demijohns in 1990, so technically talking, it spent 55 years in wooden therefore is a 55 years outdated. Personally, I’d think about time in glass as properly, by no means totally sealed (for glass containers cannot be solely sealed, until you are in some type of vacuum chamber at a continuing temperature). Let’s say, it counts for roughly twenty % of the time in wooden, only a wild guess. So, 55 years + (34*0.20) provides us round 62 years, give or take. Open to debate, naturally. Color: amber (Baltic selection). Nostril: outdated waxes, beeswax polish, a classic library with cedarwood, fir, yew, and a great deal of thuja. Orchard apples, and the inside of an outdated Jag (a correct Jag, thoughts you), then we get some mint, eucalyptus, Tiger Balm, and even a whiff of outdated Ardbeg – and I’m not joking (suppose early Nineteen Seventies). After all, just a few raisins sneak in too. Mouth: resins, pine needles, and loads of liquorice wooden begin to take over a bit, which makes it clear why some very intelligent soul determined to maneuver this nectar into glass in 1990 – simply think about, that was earlier than Oasis even shaped! The fruit has been fantastically preserved, leaning extra in the direction of liqueurs, candy wines, orange liqueur, and even a contact of calvados. There’s some verbena in there as properly. End: lengthy and virtually refreshing with all that menthol, liquorice, and certainly, the verbena too. Feedback: this can be a true journey throughout a number of temporal dimensions. A powerful cognac that highlights why quick-fix flavouring with any form of factor (no names talked about) merely doesn’t minimize it. The whisky world ought to catch on to that once more quickly sufficient.
SGP: 661 – 92 factors. |
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Serge from cognacfun.com signing off.
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