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| Hello, that is certainly one of our (nearly) every day tastings. Santé! |
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April 25, 2025
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Having a little bit of enjoyable all around the world (for a change) |
| Folks usually ask me what has modified on the planet of whisky over the previous twenty-five years. Rather a lot, in fact, however the principle factor—unsurprisingly, I’d say—is the wave of latest whiskies rising from all around the world, together with locations like Mexico and Cambodia. |
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We’ve spoken about this usually already; it’s not breaking information, however nonetheless, at the latest festivals I attended—in France, the place there have been dozens of latest French whiskies I’d by no means come throughout earlier than, and in Switzerland, the place precisely the identical pattern was taking place—it was clear this was an actual motion. And little question Limburg, the place we’re heading in a couple of days (as we write this), might be simply as revealing.
Though many of those new distilleries and types are fairly small, I consider Queen Scotland made a serious strategic error: placing far an excessive amount of emphasis on the casks used, each in maturation and in ending, and because of this, considerably downplaying the position of their precise distillate and its setting. “The wooden makes the whisky,” they used to say, however whereas it’s extraordinarily troublesome to provide one thing like Ardbeg or Macallan in Outer Mongolia, it’s very straightforward to make use of precisely the identical extremely lively casks as these two well-known distilleries. Which suggests it’s fully potential to realize one thing more and more near their type—and this may be demonstrated ‘glass in hand’.
We’ll quickly be heading to China to take a better take a look at all this, however for now, let’s give attention to what we’ve bought on the tasting desk right now, beginning—as typical—with little France…
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Évadé ‘Maple Cask End’ (47%, OB, France, single malt, +/-2025) 
A creation by ‘Whiskies du Monde’, considerably alarming at first look, though I have to admit to having already sampled it informally. Nonetheless, it’s amusing to come across ‘within the flesh’ lots of the descriptors we so usually bandy about. At this price we’ll quickly be seeing finishes in limoncello, Earl Gray tea or certainly… tar casks. Ha. At any price this wee ex-pot nonetheless quantity, presumably sourced, first spent 4 years in bourbon casks, 1st fill and refill. Color: gold. Nostril: mounds of stewed apples and overripe pears to start with, however quickly sufficient the maple syrup comes marching in and completely overpowers the nostril, finally supplying you with the impression that you simply’re sniffing neat maple syrup. Now, the difficulty right here is that we occur to adore maple syrup, and so what we now have is an nearly regressive nostril, towards which resistance is frankly futile. A contact of grilled bacon and smoked ham then places in an look, which doesn’t damage. Mouth: frankly, this can be a whisky that places a smile in your face. It’s fully unbelievable, however until you occur to harbour a deep-seated aversion to maple syrup – or certainly to goulash drenched in espresso liqueur – it’s an actual deal with, even when it does begin to really feel ever so barely suffocating. End: lengthy, far more on oak, with a bitterness that makes an attempt to revive some semblance of steadiness. Nearly manages, maybe. Lingering notes of gently burnt caramel. Feedback: sure, they do maple syrup whiskies in Canada and the USA too (Koval!) however this little French quantity (apparently from Hepp in Alsace) actually tickled me. Properly accomplished, it’s genuinely enjoyable.
SGP:751 – 85 factors. |
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Let’s be trustworthy—extra versatile laws than these in Scotland in some areas (and fewer versatile in others, such because the origins of the barley) can provide actual benefits to ‘outsider’ nations.
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Distillerie du Mont Blanc 2019/2024 (50%, LMDW Model Française, Vermouth cask, single grain, 300 bottles) 
An assemblage of barley and wheat distilled in an Armagnac-style nonetheless (petite colonne). I’ve little expertise with this wee distillery, I have to confess, although they’re brewers at first, and I’ve certainly already loved their fairly good beer, ‘Brasserie du Mont Blanc’. The kind of factor one drinks whereas snowboarding. Color: gold. Nostril: that is contemporary, agency – not your common grain – with citrussy notes and the inevitable hints of genepy (however in fact) and verbena. The vermouth definitely performs a component, but by no means takes over, it’s not overtly ‘winey’. With water: very mild sulphur. Mouth (neat): the identical profile unfolds on the palate, virtually notice for notice. Lemon, herbs, gooseberries… That stated, it does veer barely extra wine-forward this time. With water: that faintly sulphurous notice returns, together with a fermentary edge, pure wine type… Should be the vermouth. End: pretty lengthy, much more on fermentation. We do take pleasure in that aspect. Feedback: you do get a little bit of that whisky + wine character in the long run, nevertheless it’s fairly good.
SGP:451 – 80 factors. |
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Tchankat ‘Brut’ (47.3%, OB, France, +/-2024)
A brand new maize-based Gascon whisky by the well-known Armagnac home Samalens. Now they fairly used Charentais stills right here (Cognac stills) and matured their spirit in recharred – not STRised – ex-Gruaud Larose barriques, a Second Cru Classé of Saint-Julien. Color: deep gold. Nostril: one will get the impression it’s actually the casks which have accomplished the heavy lifting right here, however then once more, Gruaud is Gruaud and all of it works fairly effectively, with heaps of winery peaches, inexperienced peppercorns, blackcurrant buds and button mushrooms. A couple of glimmers of strawberry jam, although one wouldn’t precisely say it smells like purple wine. Nor would one name it faint or weak, fairly the alternative in reality, particularly given it’s maize-based, which could’ve steered in any other case. Mouth: has one thing of a ‘fantastic de Bordeaux’ vibe, so not terribly whisky-like, however we’re not complaining in any respect – fairly the opposite. Grapes, zest, cherries, buds, pips, leaf matter… End: identical type, with beautiful size. Feedback: that is fairly a ‘cross-category’ spirit, and actually, this profile fits the south-west of France right down to the bottom. Finest loved after some goose foie gras adopted by confit de canard with ceps, and a beneficiant serving to of pommes sarladaises. You’ll inform me that’s additionally the area of Armagnac… Properly, I’m totally into it.
SGP:561 – 83 factors. |
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Stillhead ‘Vancouver Island Rye’ (62.2%, OB, for Switzerland, Canada, 108 bottles, 2024)
We just lately tasted one other Stillhead and it had been superb certainly. At this energy, be warned, the Canadians can flip fierce – and never simply on the ice rink. Color: full gold. Nostril: highly effective but refined, with elegant wooden spices, curry, ginger, and a stunning medley of artisan bread notes (poppy seed, sesame, maize, caraway, barley in fact…) With water: touches of sawdust, as one may count on, but in addition hints of polish and even a whiff of pure tar. Maybe they slipped in a splash of Port Ellen, ha. Mouth (neat): ultra-potent, with a creamy texture, completely loaded with caraway and… maple syrup. I child you not. With water: oh sure, that is glorious, earthy, very ‘rye’. Notes of bitter orange. End: identical register, then extra peppery citrus, nutmeg, and a contact of honey. Spruce honey, I’d wager, one thing very native. Feedback: I like this a fantastic deal, it’s almost on par with their marvellously superlative ‘Garry Oak’.
SGP:561 – 87 factors. |
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Bimber ‘Dickens The Novelist’ (58.3%, OB, England, Shoulders of Giants, bourbon, cask #398, 259 bottles, 2024)
Bimber in bourbon is mostly a little bit of a showstopper. And effectively, Dickens, that’s about as British because it will get… Color: gold. Nostril: oh sure certainly, nothing terribly sophisticated right here however completely spot on. Vanilla, orange cake, banana loaf, a wee contact of papaya, a dusting of chalk and a small basket of freshly baked morning croissants. With water: honeysuckle and mullein. Mouth (neat): liqueurs of yellow fruits, dandelion syrup, vanilla, American oak, banana, pear. With water: triple sec rounds all of it out properly. A whisper of gluey notes within the far distance. End: lengthy, clear, rounded, deceptively easy-going in case you’re not paying shut consideration. Feedback: none of this actually feels all that Dickensian, reality be advised, however then once more you may say we’re not British ourselves. At any price, it’s glorious and nudges near the Canadian type, even when the 2 are miles aside.
SGP:651 – 87 factors. |
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New child ‘Collaboration Double Malt’ (55.4%, OB, South Korea/Japan, 402 bottles, 2025) 
We regularly dream of this type of transnational collaboration, although they’ve been fairly uncommon up to now. Right here we now have a ‘vatting’ of one-year-old Korean Craftbros (2024/2025) aged in ex-first-fill oloroso and new American oak, blended with a 2020 Japanese Nagahama matured in an ex-Islay quarter cask and purple wine cask proper as much as 2025. So sure, it’s fairly the concoction, however we love this daring concept which, if something, appears designed to point out simply how daft it will be for any nation to show in on itself. Anyway, let’s style… Color: apricot gold. Nostril: fairly unbelievable, actually, each element is distinct and clearly perceptible, beginning with the purple wine, then sherry, and eventually the peat, which stays delicate. All of it stays in a fermentary register, with notes of cherry clafoutis. I reckon water may shake issues up a bit. With water: again to the brewhouse – yeasty, sourdoughy, unfermented wort… All of that, which we love. Mouth (neat): peated kirsch (the peat actually comes by means of on the palate), artichoke liqueur, ultra-dark chocolate, bay leaf, inexperienced pepper, blackcurrant… With water: sure, that is nice – inexperienced pepper, blackcurrant buds, blood orange, bitter beer… End: lengthy, on comparable notes, although these smoky whisky-soaked cherries do bid a correct farewell within the aftertaste. Feedback: a real puzzle of youthful and extremely dynamic flavours, miles away from yet one more secure Speysider lazily PX’d into oblivion. Properly accomplished, Craftbros (and Nagahama too, naturally).
SGP:563 – 88 factors. |
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Vardberg 4 yo (48%, OB, Norway, oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #66, +/-400 bottles, 2024)
I fairly preferred Vardberg’s ‘Born’ (which, amusingly sufficient, appears to imply ‘born’ in Norse) again in 2023. This one’s made by Berentsens Brygghus, the place they dabble in all method of liquids – gin, in fact, and aquavit too, naturally. Color: gold. Nostril: how completely pleasant! In reality, this doesn’t scent very like whisky – extra like smoked fish, pine smoke, tiny forest berries, pistachio nougat, fir honey (once more), and, maintain on tight… maple syrup! I swear it. Mouth: once more, we appear to be in an alternate flavour universe, with bud notes, cumin, orgeat, woodland honeys, pine sap, coriander seeds… To be trustworthy, on this setting the oloroso barely will get a phrase in, save for a couple of inexperienced walnuts tossed into the combo. Smoked salmon with dill. End: fairly lengthy, with these flavours one may lazily label ‘Nordic’ from over right here. Beautiful honey and chocolate within the aftertaste. Feedback: proper, does it really resemble malt whisky? The reply is ‘No’. However is it any good? The reply is most definitely ‘Sure’. Finest loved evenly chilled alongside smoked salmon. And did you discover? We didn’t even point out genever…
SGP:661 – 84 factors. |
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Kavalan 2017/2024 (59.4%, OB, Taiwan, Solist, OBE/Membership Bâtard Unique, Madeira cask, cask #D170314035A, 210 bottles) 
We all the time strategy Kavalan with a contact of hesitation, the problem being that the Solist bottlings are invariably very, superb. That stated, we’re fairly intrigued by this Membership Bâtard affair – one imagines it’s nearer to Bâtard-Montrachet than to some ‘pure bastard’ from the backstreets (apologies, if wanted). Color: darkish amber. Nostril: increase, that is pure outdated Malmsey – or Bual – or Sercial, take your decide. Fig jam, dates, peach liqueur and essentially the most treasured of treasured sultanas. Not a foot incorrect. With water: on the transfer the raisins – Corinth and in any other case – storming the stage and claiming command with out a battle. Mouth (neat): in-cred-i-ble. Monumental Madeira, huge, nearly overpowering, nevertheless it appears all high gear, and actually, one might mistake this for a wonderful outdated cask. Mainly, it’s as if somebody fortified a grand outdated Madeira with Kavalan. With water: in comes a barrage of chocolate and hazelnut liqueur. End: lengthy, creamy, irresistible. Feedback: that is really glorious and impeccably managed from begin to end. Folks typically say Kavalan could be very ‘technical’, however at this stage, three cheers for approach!
SGP:751 – 90 factors. |
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Properly, since we’re already tasting Madeira at Kavalan – or the opposite means round…
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Kavalan 2017/2024 (61%, OB, Taiwan, Solist, Crown Cellars Unique, JP’s Selection, Madeira cask, cask #D170317055A, 196 bottles)
Again to Canada for this one, particularly to Calgary, Alberta. Color: darkish amber. Nostril: clearly very near the ‘Bâtard’ (both you grasp the approach, otherwise you don’t), although this one feels a tad much less rounded and jammy, and with a barely extra mineral and dry profile – although certainly not a ‘dry’ Kavalan. Whiffs of damp forest ground, adopted by a field of little Cuban cigars, the type JFK supposedly loved post-embargo. With water: you’re wandering by means of an outdated bodega… Mouth (neat): oh lord, that is good! However be careful – it’s mighty highly effective, with a fairly head-snapping tendency (fairly like a couple of Canadian hockey gamers, come to think about it). Superb walnuts, tobacco and earthy notes. With water: honeys, figs, raisins, and a few balsamic touches all jockeying for consideration. End: lengthy, nearly saline. Bone marrow hints with a splash of marc or grappa. Insanity! Feedback: one would like to have a phrase with this ‘JP’. Then once more, greatest go away him in peace…
SGP:661 – 91 factors. |
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Not a lot might high this Taiwanese-Canadian-Portuguese Kavalan, so let’s name this session to a detailed.
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That stated, we must always level out that whereas this collection of world whiskies was fairly thrilling—largely because of their unconventional character—we might simply see ourselves shopping for an entire case of any Clynelish, however I don’t suppose we’d do the identical with any of the whiskies we tasted right now. See you.
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