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| Hello, that is one in every of our (virtually) each day tastings. Santé! |
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October 16, 2024
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You do not see them a lot at festivals anymore, however unbiased bottlers are conserving the flame alive for whisky fans. Within the meantime, we’ll simply have somewhat aperitif that we nonetheless had readily available, a small NAS with a comparatively average alcohol content material… Oh, and blissful anniversary, Macallan!
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Macallan ‘Version No.5’ (48.5%, OB, 260,000 bottles, 2019) 
A sequence that handed considerably beneath the radar over at WF, regardless of the staggering variety of bottles. It’s true that I discovered No.4 fairly lacklustre (WF 79), whereas Angus appeared to take pleasure in No.6 fairly a bit extra (WF 85). However nothing to jot down residence about, actually—simply a part of the story with many NAS whiskies of the time, and NAS tends to imply “odd story.” Right here, it’s all a couple of new Pantone color, which strikes me as fairly, properly, ecclesiastical (the color, not the story). Now, let’s see if the spirit itself is divine… Color: gold. Nostril: caramel and barely burnt nuts and almonds, with a contact of char and rubber coming via, adopted by new leather-based and hardwood shavings (walnut, cherry, that type of factor). Additionally, some inexperienced walnuts, shoe polish, allspice, and a little bit of orange peel. Not dangerous in any respect. Mouth: very a lot in keeping with the nostril, with a fairly bitter and peppery sherried facet, plus some acidic, bitter espresso (which we like), then blended spices and uncooked cinnamon. The inexperienced walnuts stay upfront, and we do fairly like that bitterness. End: lengthy, turning into nuttier however nonetheless spicy. Ginger and turmeric, with bitter oranges and a contact of Cynar within the aftertaste. Feedback: actually not dangerous in any respect, and it loves a splash of water, although that bitterness would persist. Very trendy, with that spicy edge.
SGP: 361 – 84 factors. |
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Macallan 19 yo 2005/2024 ‘Speymalt’ (56.5%, Gordon & MacPhail for LMDW Foundations, 1st fill sherry hogshead, cask #22606305, 343 bottles) 
We’ve had some actually pretty Speymalts earlier than! Color: gold. Nostril: unsurprisingly extra highly effective, with an earthier profile. There’s loads of tobacco, soot, paraffin, wax, and a contact of liquorice and camphor, plus a touch of coconut. However in any other case, not too dissimilar simply but. With water: now it’s very completely different, with inexperienced tea, menthol cigarettes, and thuja wooden creeping in. Mouth (neat): fairly wealthy, but nonetheless fairly recent, probably because of these notes of pine sap, lime, alfalfa, fern, and eucalyptus lozenges… Actually an uncommon Macallan. With water: there we go, we’ve cracked it. Lemon, mint, eucalyptus, fir honey, and tobacco… It’s pretty, simply very uncommon. End: lengthy, with a return of liquorice wooden and fir wooden. There’s an Amontillado and minty high quality lingering within the aftertaste. Feedback: Amontillado and mint, that’s it. This have to be spectacular in a highball, although it may be a little bit of a sacrilege, wouldn’t it?
SGP: 461 – 89 factors. |
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Macallan 27 yo 1997/2024 ‘Speymalt’ (59.7%, Gordon & MacPhail for LMDW Foundations, refill sherry hogshead, cask #4356, 140 bottles) 
G&M have at all times had the knack for sustaining these impressively excessive ABVs, and I doubt it is because of cling movie, central heating within the warehouses, or some strict humidity management (in Scotland, no much less!). Have to be one thing else… Any concepts? Color: full gold. Nostril: overlook it, that is good—easy and exact, with walnuts, mint, and radishes. No room for flowery descriptions right now (flowery descriptions, S.?). With water: oh, now we’ve obtained rhubarb tarte and much more radishes. Mouth (neat): a beast that takes management of your palate, tongue, lips, gums, and doubtless different issues too (no, not that). Massive pepper, walnuts, turmeric, Seville oranges… Water feels ab-so-lute-ly important. With water: it spreads throughout your palate with about twenty instances extra flavour—fruits, peels, tars, peppers, zesty honeys, walnuts, citrus… Actually, it’s a tribute to the thrill of including water throughout a tasting. You’re proper, particularly at almost 60% ABV. End: very lengthy, peppery, and honeyed. Feedback: very respectable with out water, magical with it.
SGP: 561 – 91 factors (with water, that’s). |
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UPDATE Concerning very excessive ABV ranges after a few years of maturation, and regardless of the opportunity of a highly regarded and dry location in a warehouse (even in Scotland!), our buddy Wouter suggests that giant unbiased bottlers who order new fillings straight from distilleries can, in some circumstances, acquire new-make spirit that’s both undiluted or decreased to a lot larger strengths than the normal 63.5% ABV. For instance, 70% ABV. On this case, even when alcohol loss is important over time, the bottling power can stay notably excessive if no or very delicate dilution is utilized earlier than bottling. Is smart, doesn’t it? Thanks, Wouter!
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Advertising Malt 15 yo 2008/2024 (57.1%, Whisky-Sponge, Decadent Drinks, #88)
We’re not solely certain this Advertising Malt is Macallan, regardless of the clear visible nods to these outdated G&M bottlings. Truthfully, we’re torn between Macallan, Ardbeg, and Dalmore… However after all, ‘advertising and marketing’ couldn’t probably be a unclean phrase, might it? It’s Macallan. Color: deep gold. Nostril: chocolate, tobacco, bitter orange, walnut liqueur, then morels and moss. Even a touch of black truffle, maybe, however with none sulphury edge. With water: the chocolate and occasional actually take centre stage, each in full-on roast mode. Mouth (neat): fairly a little bit of varnish, outdated walnuts, pine needles, and Jaeger*****r… It’s obtained lots to say, as they are saying. With water: leather-based, tobacco, and outdated ham emerge. Pretty ham fats, with that refined nutty high quality. Possibly not the perfect dram for vegans, to be truthful. End: lengthy, extra earthy, but additionally a contact lighter on the similar time. Feedback: an old-school malt that reminds us of the outdated 10 yo 100 proof from round 1990/1995. Some dram, that one—in all probability not precisely ‘sharp’ 10 years outdated although.
SGP: 561 – 90 factors. |
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Macallan ‘Over 30 yo’ 1991/2024 (55.2%, LMDW, Artist #14, 2nd fill bourbon barrel, cask #14622, 89 bottles)
Again within the day, folks would pounce on ex-bourbon Macallans like fleas on an outdated tomcat, as they had been uncommon, with the distillery largely targeted on sherry casks—which, after all, constructed its fame. So, this one’s a bit completely different… Color: gold. Nostril: oh sure, peanuts, sunflower seeds, bark, recent mastic, linseed oil, and quince paste… love that! With water: a stroll via the woods—moss, mushrooms, sap, outdated stumps, historic lichen, then ink and damp, outdated paper. Mouth (neat): a lot cleaner, very natural and lemony, fairly spectacular, and really uncommon. Dill, grapefruit, sage, basil… With water: excellent, bringing again mint, chervil, verbena, anise, absinthe, and chalk… It virtually appears like absinthe from the Eighties. End: lengthy, elegant, poetic, mental. Feedback: this can be a true journey; Netflix might make 10 seasons based mostly on this distinctive little whisky alone. Distinctive in a number of senses of the phrase.
SGP: 562 – 92 factors. |
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Blended Malt Whisky 27 yo 1993/2021 (53.2%, C. Dully Choice, sherry hogshead, cask #13, 317 bottles)
This one hails from ex-Edrington inventory. We’ve by no means actually adopted these releases, which might include something from Macallan and Highland Park to Tamdhu and Glenrothes. It might be unbelievable information if this seems to be… HP. Color: amber gold. Nostril: huge doses of butterscotch, praline, cornflakes, Golden Grahams, maple syrup, cigarettes, crème caramel, adopted by a bouquet of yellow flowers and a great deal of honey… With water: a contact of ink and tar, together with a faint metallic word, like an outdated dumpy black bottle. You recognize what I imply. Mouth (neat): my, that is good! A real basic, a bit spicier right here, a contact rustic, however you may really feel the potential able to explode when you add water. With water: growth! Milk chocolate, dried figs, roasted hazelnuts, Nutella, and a few outdated sherry within the ‘cream’ type. End: lengthy, extra austere, dry, with tobacco and outdated walnuts. Further-dark chocolate (80% or extra) lingers within the aftertaste. Feedback: I don’t assume this can be a single malt, however the marriage is so good that it’s clearly not a easy blended malt thrown collectively proper earlier than bottling both. I additionally suspect there’s fairly some Macallan in right here. Extra importantly, I believe it’s completely great and multi-dimensional.
SGP: 562 – 91 factors. |
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Nicely, actually, if a session like this does not display the near-superiority of the independents (and of the brokers who feed a few of them), I don’t know what its function is. I additionally assume the brand new paradigm of single malt whisky (manufacturers down, costs down, actual high quality up) solely strengthens the phenomenon. The one factor we don’t want are independents bottling any outdated garbage, nevertheless it’s been a really, very very long time since I’ve come throughout any like that. Model vanity – or unjustified premiumization – being down, independents should be a part of the longer term.
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