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| Hello, that is one in every of our (nearly) each day tastings. Santé! |
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March 16, 2025
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A phrase of warning
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are achieved from the viewpoint of a malt whisky fanatic who, what’s extra, is aboslutely not an professional in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or every other spirits. Thanks – and peace! |
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Extra rums, on the lookout for malternatives
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The magnificent Jurançon winery with the Pyrénées within the background
(P. Carton, La Vie Economique du Sud-Ouest) |
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At all times with one or two aperitifs…
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Kirk & Sweeney ‘Gran Reserva Superior’ (40%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2024) 
We tasted the ‘Gran Reserva’ a couple of weeks in the past, quite akin to espresso liqueur, although inside a reasonably modest model—but comparatively drinkable (WF 68). This ‘superior’ model is slightly pricier, so in principle, it should be slightly higher. In principle… Color: full gold. Nostril: it’s very a lot on maple syrup and cane juice, with bitter almond liqueur, a couple of fermentary and tarry touches which can be fairly nice, and even a drop of diesel oil. Not disagreeable in any respect—fairly the alternative. Mouth: catastrophe, it’s very candy, although there are notes of burnt cane and caramel which can be comparatively pleasurable. This carries on with moscatel and Cointreau, even elderflower liqueur, all the time with heaps of sugar, although I have to admit the fragrant profile, except for that, is quite likeable. Simply-roasted espresso. End: not very lengthy however slightly tiring, attributable to all that sugar making itself recognized. Feedback: I’ll say it once more—with ice, why not.
SGP: 731 – 72 factors. |
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Chairman’s Reserve ‘The Forgotten Casks’ (40%, OB, St. Lucia, +/-2023) 
We tasted an older batch six years in the past, and it wasn’t unhealthy in any respect (WF 80). Color: deep gold. Nostril: pretty nostril, with varnish, a contact of solvent, hay, natural teas, and a few tea… Alas! The low power makes it really feel a thousand occasions extra fragile than the marvellous single casks we’ve been tasting in latest months and years. A cappuccino and orange blossom word emerges slightly later, thoughts you. Mouth: the true handicap right here is the power, although every little thing else is of excellent high quality—walnuts, liquorice, a mentholated contact, heather honey… However there’s additionally the impression that slightly sugar or syrup has been added, even when that appears shocking. End: liqueur-filled candies and cooled tea. Alas, nonetheless too mild and, on this case, quick. Feedback: a really irritating model, particularly when single casks at pure power can hit 90/100 with out elevating an eyebrow on this depressing little ‘weblog’.
SGP: 631 – 79 factors. |
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Père Labat ‘Réserve familiale’ (42%, OB, Marie-Galante, agricole, +/-2024) 
Hand-cut canes, naturally. Color: pale gold. Nostril: full-on sugarcane, actually full-on, with a mixture of brown sugar, violets, hibiscus, jasmine, and a contact of caraway. It’s a nostril near the earth and the cane, but additionally very pure and contemporary. I actually recognize the close to absence of wooden, despite the fact that the maturity is absolutely current. Mouth: identical mixture, plus heather and pine honey. A little bit of wooden this time, although extra within the model of acacia. End: pretty lengthy, with the arrival of extra basic dried fruit notes and a touch of espresso. Feedback: I discover this cuvée significantly better than different low-strength variations from earlier years. Pretty fragrant precision.
SGP: 551 – 85 factors. |
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Rhum J.M 9 yo 2014/2024 (54.8%, OB, Martinique, agricole, LMDW Foundations, cask #170350, 257 bottles)
Kirsch Import in Germany had some excellent J.M 2014s two years in the past. I’ve discovered latest releases to be quite oaky, in a contemporary model, however every little thing was very properly managed—by no means simply plank juice. Color: amber. Nostril: varnished, very a lot in a ‘bourbon of rum’ model, however with a spine of very ripe banana, menthol, and eucalyptus, which progressively take us elsewhere, in direction of liquorice in all its kinds. With water: mosses, pine needles, salted butter caramel… Mouth (neat): very wealthy but additionally tight, deeply liquorice-driven, with loads of lemon, ristretto, and cedarwood. The oak spices are in cost. With water: water barely tames it, with star anise, nutmeg, and cinnamon absolutely taking management. End: lengthy, spicy, oaky, however the distillate had sufficient persona to maintain every little thing balanced all through. Feedback: a really fantastic bottle, however the reverse of the Père Labat certainly.
SGP: 561 – 86 factors. |
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Bonne Mère 3 yo (52%, Vagabond Spirits & Multiverres Spirits, Concord, Guadeloupe, +/-2025)
Completed for 3 months in an ex-sweet white Jurançon cask (love many white Jurançons). Bonne Mère, owned by La Martiniquaise, relies in Sainte-Rose, the place I consider they produce conventional molasses-based rhum quite than cane juice-based agricole. Color: pale gold. Nostril: it’s delicate, contemporary, joyful, with loads of cane juice notes however, above all, kilotons of contemporary pineapple, mango, and guava. That is completely spectacular and fully irresistible. With water: it’s value noting that white Jurançon, whether or not dry or candy, already shows such unique notes, although all the time with a fantastic freshness, given its proximity to the Atlantic. Splendid nostril, even when, in a approach, this all feels slightly pleonastic. Mouth (neat): that is fortified fruit juice, no approach round it… This time, ardour fruit takes the lead, adopted by mango, pineapple, papaya, and blood orange. A real tropical pop live performance. With water: naturally, the query turns into how a lot of this profile comes from the Jurançon cask. End: the identical unstoppable fruitiness, with no missteps in anyway, apart from a barely ‘sizzling’, extra alcoholic aftertaste. Feedback: bonne mère! because the Marseillais would say. Sensible for making an unique fruit cocktail with out including a single unique fruit juice.
SGP: 831 – 87 factors. |
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TDL 21 yo 2002/2024 (54%, Valinch & Mallet, Trinidad, 300 bottles) 
At all times with these pretty again labels (however which one is the label, and which is the again label, on the finish of the day?). Color: deep gold. Nostril: it’s a bit like a TDL that stored a detailed eye on its outdated colleague Caroni and the types it was producing again when the distillery was nonetheless operational. A mixture of petroly and tarry notes on one facet, and really, very ripe fruits on the opposite. And proper within the center, freshly picked mint leaves. With water: banana cake drizzled with honey and paraffin, or one thing alongside these traces. Mouth (neat): excellent, highly effective but contemporary, taut but fruity, and above all, fairly phenolic and nearly salty, although we’re nonetheless removed from the uncooked model of some batches from its former compadre. With water: wealthy, nonetheless with that sensation of extra-ripe banana, salted liquorice, and hints of tar. End: lengthy, in good continuity, simply with extra black pepper and even a contact of chilli. Feedback: a really, very fantastic bottle in an ultra-British model. Speaking about rum, after all.
SGP: 652 – 89 factors. |
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Hampden 1 yo ‘LROK’ (64.6%, OB, La Maison & Velier, The 8 Marks Assortment, Jamaica, ex-bourbon, 20cl, 2024) 
From this excellent collection showcasing Hampden’s totally different marks, first launched as whites two years in the past, then as 1-year-olds final yr. LROK is a reasonably mild mark, comparable to 150–400 grams of ester per HLPA. Color: white wine. Nostril: I like these well-balanced Hampdens that mix seawater, anchovies, olives, and a restrained mixture of tar and glues. With water: outdated magazines stacked in a cellar and a touch of moist canine, but all of it stays very clear. Proper, so a clear moist canine. Mouth (neat): it’s excellent, however the model continues to be extraordinarily ‘high-ester’, and at this power, it might set your throat on hearth. Finest to keep away from, I’d say… With water: now that’s glorious—smoky citrus and fats oysters with lemon, together with inexperienced olives and tar lurking within the background. End: lengthy, very elegant, saline, smoky, lemony, and nearly refreshing. That’s its essential flaw—fortunately, we solely have (or quite had) 20cl of it. Feedback: Hampden is actually a rum that doesn’t depend on age. I imply, it may be splendid at 0 years outdated or at 40. Few spirits have that expertise.
SGP: 563 – 90 factors. |
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On the whole, the rum that goes greatest after a Hampden is one other Hampden…
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HD 2000/2024 (52%, The Whisky Jury, Jamaica, refill barrels, casks #42, 48, 75, 173 bottles)
We don’t assume, on this context, that ‘HD’ stands for ‘Harley-Davidson’. By the best way, we’ve got a Highway King 1994 on the market if anybody’s , as we now not experience American. Although it does want a little bit of a restart. And no, the bike has by no means been fuelled with cask power whisky, relaxation assured. Oh, and it’s a first-hand proprietor. Color: gold. Nostril: completely gorgeous—pretty light, with honeyed smoked banana, ocean water, oysters, olives, whelks… There actually is that maritime edge that generally makes us say Hampden = Ardbeg (simply as Neisson = Macallan or Bielle = Springbank). However transferring on… With water: it turns extremely mineral, nearly basaltic – and ballistic. Mouth (neat): oh sure—medicinal, lemony, tarry, very very similar to Ardbeg, and above all, full of extra olives than an olive tree earlier than harvest. With water: fruity resins of all types. Completely good. End: identical story, lasting a very good whereas, with tar placing up fairly a battle and a brilliant lemon shining by way of within the aftertaste. Feedback: how might anybody resist these rums? Ought to we even attempt?
SGP: 563 – 91 factors. |
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 Examine the index of all rums we have tasted to this point
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