Torbreck’s heritage vines
Julie Sheppard
I not too long ago met with winemaker Ian Hongell of Torbreck, who was on the town for the 2025 launch of the Barossa producer’s high wines, together with The Steading, The Struie and Descendant. Noting that he’s simply completed his fortieth classic, he quipped: ‘I’m beginning to get the dangle of it now…’ Alongside the most recent releases, we tasted a vertical of RunRig, a surprising Shiraz made completely from heritage clones. Barossa is house to a number of the oldest Shiraz vines on the planet, with plantings courting again to 1843.
‘We’ve been attempting to resurrect previous vineyards that have been derelict,’ explains Hongell. ‘These grapes have a resilience that trendy clones don’t have,’ he provides. Grapes are sourced from six websites in Lyndoch, Rowland Flat, Moppa, Ebenezer, Mild Go and Greenock. ‘I’m attempting to create one thing full-bodied, highly effective and textural, however nonetheless mild on its ft,’ he says of RunRig, which attracts comparisons with the northern Rhône’s Côte-Rôtie.
The most recent launch, 2022, comes from a cool, La Niña yr, which lends a gorgeous fragrance and floral carry to the wine. However the older vintages stole the present; notably 2018, with its earthy, garrigue edge to the still-youthful, silky black fruit (95pts, £180- £190 Corking Wines, Crump Richmond Shaw, London Finish Wines). And 2017, with its elegantly brooding palate (96pts, £178-£200 Crump Richmond Shaw, IG Wines, London Finish Wines).
Bodegas Habla – Talking plainly
Ines Salpico
I used to be first launched to the wines of Bodegas Habla about 10 years in the past by mates from the design business moderately than the wine clique. Drawn to Habla by its putting branding and visible identification, they’d turn into vocal followers and repeat consumers. I remained sceptical, questioning in the event that they have been judging the guide by its cowl. They weren’t (or not solely). Since that first introduction, I’ve tasted (and drunk) the wines a number of instances – not least six weeks in the past, when the Habla group was on the town for a mini London tour.
Habla (‘converse’ in Spanish) is a daring venture of nice focus and dedication, producing wines which can be stripped of artifice, refined but unpretentious – and counterintuitively drinkable. You’ll assume that an property within the coronary heart of Extremadura, of scorching fame, would produce clumsy powerhouses. Habla’s wines are something however. Attempt Habla del Silencio (‘Converse of Silence’; 2020, £15.50 Origin Spain) a wise, recent mix of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo, or Habla de Ti (‘Converse of Your self’; 2020, £15.50 Origin Spain), a textural, distinctive Sauvignon Blanc, for an ideal introduction to the trendy, expressive takes on worldwide varieties from a venture that’s smooth each in and out.
Tasting Trailside
Geordie Torr
Jeremy Seysses (left) with Carlton McCoy
It could appear a very odd pairing – the seemingly polar reverse worlds of Napa Cabernet and Burgundy Pinot Noir – however in early April, these worlds collided in a outstanding manner, at an intimate Berry Bros & Rudd masterclass to rejoice the inaugural launch from Trailside Winery, a collaboration between Carlton McCoy MS, CEO of Lawrence Wine Estates, and Jeremy Seysses of Burgundy’s legendary Domaine Dujac, each of whom have been available to introduce the venture.
After tasting our manner by way of a elegant assortment of Dujac wines (all from magnum) to get us within the temper – Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes 2008, Clos St-Denis Grand Cru 2008, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 2009 and 2010 Echezeaux Grand Cru 2010 – we have been poured the wine itself, the Trailside, Trailside Winery 2022 (£144 ib Berry Bros & Rudd). The ability of auto-suggestion mustn’t be discounted, however it was tough to not come away with the impression that this was essentially the most Pinot-like Cabernet you’re ever more likely to style. Exotically aromatic, it presents recent, lifted aromas of blueberry, raspberry, blackberry and plum fruit. There’s an actual delicacy to the palate, with considerable however very well-managed tannins and pure, succulent purple fruits. And all at a really un-Napa-like 13.1% alcohol.
Atelier Guibert: Mas de Daumas Gassac’s new artistic playground
Natalie Earl
Mas de Daumas Gassac is certainly one of Languedoc’s nice success tales, its founders Véronique and Aimé Guibert de la Vaissière elevating the area like few others have. Since Aimé’s passing in 2016, their 5 sons have led the domaine. Now, a brand new chapter begins with the quiet launch of Atelier Guibert.
After I requested brothers Basile and Samuel what it’s, concepts, explanations and anecdotes tumbled out. In brief, the brand new property is a workshop – an area for the brothers to discover, experiment and create. Not a single wine, or perhaps a set vary, however a winemaking lab they’ve imagined for greater than a decade. The venture has emerged from a typical quandary: how you can honour custom whereas staying related and carving a path for the following technology.
‘We will play a bit extra, be loopy a bit extra,’ says Basile. Atelier Guibert has its personal new vineyard and a 14ha winery between Gignac and Aniane. In contrast to Daumas Gassac’s rebellious Bordeaux-leaning blends, this venture focuses on southern French varieties: Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvèdre. The wines can be accessible in value and profile. Génésis – a vivid, crunchy, juicy purple – is likely one of the first. Within the brothers’ secure arms, channelling the nonconformist spirit of their dad and mom, Atelier Guibert holds a lot promise for the longer term.
Staglin Household tales
Tina Gellie
Reflecting on a fortieth anniversary tasting with Shari and Garen Staglin of Napa’s Staglin Household Winery, the fondest reminiscence wasn’t the (albeit wonderful) flight of Property Cabernets again to 1995, however the tales advised, firsthand, by this pioneering couple. They met on a blind date at UCLA 61 years in the past and in 1966, two years earlier than marrying, visited a nascent Napa. There have been solely six wineries then, remembers Garen, however the pair agreed they’d at some point be a part of the valley’s story.
Quick-forward by way of pupil loans, the Vietnam Conflict and busy careers, and in 1985, they purchased an historic 25ha property, first planted with vines in 1865. Lauded winery supervisor David Abreu has farmed the property organically for the reason that buy and Fredrik Johansson has made the previous 18 vintages, each guaranteeing consistency.
In the meantime, daughter Shannon oversees operations and son Brandon heads the household’s non-profit, One Thoughts, which has raised greater than US$600m for psychological well being analysis by way of an annual music competition on the vineyard as properly 100% of proceeds from the entry-level Salus label. The elegantly tropical 2023 Chardonnay and lavishly fruited 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon will retail for underneath £100 by way of UK agent Pol Roger.
