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Dongwei Distillery and Lyle Lovett


 

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Hello, that is one among our (virtually) day by day tastings. Santé!
   
 

 

 

February 8, 2025


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Angus’s Nook
From our correspondent and
expert taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
A visit to China half 2: Dongwei Distillery

A belated comply with as much as our earlier session the place we tasted some Laizhou single malts (and a single mix). This time we’re exploring Dongwei Distillery for the primary time. Dongwei is situated in Hunan Province and was based in 2014, they distill rather a lot with Chinese language grown barley, use gas-fired distillation and age all their whiskies for at least six years. Fairly quite a lot of yeast and oak combos are used apparently. 
Angus  

 

Dongwei (63.9%, OB, cask #C.01, 2nd fill barrel, bottled 2024, 106 bottles)

Dongwei (63.9%, OB, cask #C.01, 2nd fill barrel, bottled 2024, 106 bottles)
A distillery began in 2014 that makes use of gasoline fired distillation, six row north western Chinese language barley and Chinese language peat. Apparently this one was made to intentionally have a barely soapy character – undecided why that might be, nevertheless it sounds each completely mad and utterly fascinating… Color: shiny straw. Nostril: certainly, there’s something fragile and feathery, like outdated face cream and hand lotion, dried lavender and violets. It’s like one of many extra mild variations of Eighties Bowmore in some respects. There’s a relatively brittle and dry smoke fading out and in too, that additionally comes throughout as elegantly coastal at instances. With water: camphor, clay, sandalwood and seashore sand with plasticine and solar lotion. Mouth: certainly, some cleaning soap is right here. It’s not insupportable ranges, we aren’t in Eighties Edradour territory and reaching for the issue 50 toothpaste. However there are distinct flavours that conjure lavender, violets and fragrance, with wee hints of fairy liquid. With water: rice wine, some barely stale notes, salty porridge, hints of waxed canvass and soda bread. Some additional generic ‘soapy’ notes’. End: fairly lengthy, carbolic, drying, salty and soapy. Feedback: how on earth do you rating a whisky like this? To intentionally make this type of profile is extremely provocative and virtually a philosophical problem. To me, cleaning soap is a flaw, and I’ve to say, I don’t significantly get pleasure from this whisky, however I discover it technically spectacular that somebody has created a type of Chinese language Eighties Bowmore tribute dram. I’m going to attain it purely as if it have been a soapy dram in its personal proper, by itself deserves as a whisky, however I additionally begrudgingly commend the distiller for being so loopy! 
SGP: 452 – 65 factors. 

 

 

Dongwei (62.8%, OB, cask #C.15, bourbon, bottled 2024, 109 bottles)

Dongwei (62.8%, OB, cask #C.15, bourbon, bottled 2024, 109 bottles)
This one must be peated, and hopefully not soapy… Color: gold. Nostril: wonderful, clear and tightly focussed peat smoke. Feels relatively wealthy, creamy and thick, with some beautiful notes of wooden smoke, paraffin and pine resin. Love this relatively concentrated, syrupy and camphory character. With water: extra coastal and a tad extra ‘Scottish’ maybe, with crushed seashells, seawater, medical embrocations and bandages. Retains a wonderful sense of density and weight. Mouth: nice arrival! Very peaty, filled with concentrated tarry notes, additionally a number of natural traits corresponding to outdated natural liqueurs, verbena, wormwood and eucalyptus. And a really resinous, fir wooden character that runs all through. With water: extra creaminess and spice traits from the wooden come by way of right here, which together with the peat, manifests as a mixture of coconut cream, fir wooden resins, natural ointments and wooden smoke. Additionally exhibiting wee notes of oily kippers and creosote. End: lengthy, very tarry, peppery, with extra fir woods and hardwood resins, camphor and natural extracts. Feedback: significantly very spectacular whisky. Feels just like the stability of local weather, oak, peat and distillate has actually been struck brilliantly. I’d additionally say it’s so distant from cask C.01 that it begins to make that bottling look more and more very intelligent by comparability.
 SGP: 466 – 88 factors. 

 

 

Dongwei (62.8%, OB, cask #C.22, STR barrique, bottled 2024, 152 bottles)

Dongwei (62.8%, OB, cask #C.22, STR barrique, bottled 2024, 152 bottles)
A mashbill of espresso malt and crystal malt this time. Color: orangey amber. Nostril: extra excessive in profile this time, a giant sense of bitterness, full on artichoke liqueur, salted liquorice, then tea tree oil, inexperienced walnuts, orange cordial and almond paste. Very huge and relatively excessive whisky. With water: richly on wholemeal breads, sport meats, pure tar extracts, hardwood resins and natural cough mixtures. Just like the peated one, it offers an impression of fullness of texture and fatness. Mouth: once more actually fairly full on with huge bitter notes of artichoke liqueur, espresso, espresso grounds, very darkish chocolate, cheng pi, aniseed liqueur and mole sauce. I’ve to say, it’s excessive, however there’s one thing undeniably spectacular concerning the texture and fatness of the entire profile – would that be right down to direct firing? With water: enhances these chocolatey vibes, notes of chocolate sauce with chipotle chilli, camphor, aniseed, shoe leather-based, mushroom powder, BBQ sauce and biltong. End: lengthy, again on black salted liquorice, outdated Burgundian pinot noir, camphor, sooty notes, boot polish and darkish chocolate dissolved in espresso. Feedback: it’s whacky and undeniably excessive at factors, however I can’t assist however discover this spectacular nonetheless. I favor the peated one, however that is nonetheless excellent. 
SGP: 472 – 85 factors. 

 

 

Dongwei (66.9%, OB, cask #C.31, Mongolian oak, bottled 2024, 126 bottles)

Dongwei (66.9%, OB, cask #C.31, Mongolian oak, bottled 2024, 126 bottles)
Don’t suppose I ever tasted something from Mongolian oak earlier than, however their web site counsel that they use this wooden kind to attempt to discover the chances of ‘extra Chinese language traits’ which I believe is a really good endeavour for a Chinese language whisky. Color: gold. Nostril: wooden resins and runny honey, some hints of caraway and fennel seed too, however actually additionally a bit of closed off by the excessive alcohol. With water: some inexperienced wooden, inexperienced peppercorn, rosewater and even a delicate trace of Gewurztraminer. Nonetheless a way of wooden spices and sappiness about it. Mouth: relatively sappy and syrupy, wooden varnish, lime leaf, coconut and floor ginger. Fairly a little bit of oak spice, however a balancing creaminess of texture which carries it properly whereas additionally fortunately masking the excessive ABV considerably. With water: a much wider spiciness emerges, very punchy now, with a lot of dried cabinet spices, pink peppercorn and even a touch of Szechuan pepper (however that could be the ability of suggestion). Just a few preserved yellow fruits in syrup additionally peeping by way of. End: lengthy, however very spicy and a bit of scorching. Feedback: most likely my least favorite (other than the soapy one, nevertheless it’s more and more clear that was some sort of deliberate experiment) nevertheless it’s nonetheless evidently some top quality distillate with distinctive oak affect. 
SGP: 571 – 84 factors.   

 

 

Dongwei (62.3%, OB, cask #C.19, 1st fill bourbon, bottled 2024, 118 bottles)

Dongwei (62.3%, OB, cask #C.19, 1st fill bourbon, bottled 2024, 118 bottles)
We’re being a bit random with our order choice right here, however that is Whiskyfun, not Whiskyorder! (what?) Color: deep gold. Nostril: a beautiful nostril of acacia honey, wormwood, gorse flower and fairly a couple of shiny cereal notes and different components that counsel pure sweetness, corresponding to lemon barley water, flower nectars and fruity muesli. With water: juniper, oak spices, cedar wooden, creme brûlée and a few beautiful notes of fennel and tarragon. Mouth: wonderful focus and syrupy high quality, an actual sense of texture and plenty of fruit salad juices and honey impressions. Some barely dusty pollen notes, white tea and candied citrus peels. With water: pineapple, pine wooden resins, some inexperienced fruits corresponding to cider apple and gooseberry, but in addition a barely firmer, extra peppery facet rising. End: medium, getting a tad drier and spicier now. Feedback: the end dragged it down a bit of, however total I’d say that is one other instance of the place the basic cask varieties all the time appear to ship the extra pleasant whiskies – wherever they’re used on the planet. 
SGP: 461 – 85 factors. 

 

 

Dongwei (63.3%, OB, peated, cask #C.28, ex-rye cask, bottled 2024, 146 bottles)

Dongwei (63.3%, OB, peated, cask #C.28, ex-rye cask, bottled 2024, 146 bottles)
A closing peated one to complete. Color: deep gold. Nostril: a richer, deeper and extra strong smokiness, bonfire and BBQ smoke, with wooden ashes, tarred rope, pine resin and camphor. Additionally hints of coal smoke and lanolin, which provides a tender medicinal undercurrent. With water: creamier and barely extra farmyard in character, earthier, sootier, some roasted greens corresponding to parsnips, and nonetheless fairly a persistent wooden smoke notice. Mouth: once more, very huge whisky! Reasonably tarry, very dry and thick smokiness, a lot of creosote and roof pitch – virtually Ardbeggy at instances. Then some dried black olives and hessian. With water: relatively mashy, like sipping peated wort, then smoked sea salt, tarry rope, ointments, mercurochrome and smoked olive oil. End: lengthy, on a deeper and barely sweeter smokiness, with a couple of maritime traits like dried seaweed showing. Feedback: one other very strong peaty one, however was this Chinese language peat? I most popular the primary peated one by a notch, however that is nonetheless wonderful. 
SGP: 466 – 87 factors. 

 

 

Appears to be like like there might be some very top quality and interesting whiskies rising from China within the coming years, if these two wee periods are something to go by.

 

Live performance Evaluation
by Nick Morgan
Lyle Lovett
Cadogan Corridor, London,
Saturday twenty fifth january 2025

For all that he appears to be continuously on the highway Texan composer and singer Lyle Lovett is simply an occasional customer to London.  That’s relatively a disgrace, as two in a short time bought out nights on the Cadogan Corridor means that there’s no scarcity of individuals prepared to pay to see him. 

Lyle Lovett

This lengthy tall Texan, barely stooped with age, swimsuit jacket buttoned up in a method that might have flattered Norman Knowledge, has a staged presence that might attraction the birds from the timber. 

He’s arrived from Scotland and Eire, nursing a sore throat contracted, he believed from his twins, whom he affectionally describes as ‘seven yr outdated petri dishes’.  Water and heat tea (with honey?) preserve his voice in good condition, and there’s actually no half measures in his efficiency.  It’s two and a half hours of pure pleasure.  Though there’s a shock begin.  Earlier than the band takes the stage we’re performed what I consider to be Man Lombardo and his Royal Canadian’s mournful recording of Auld Lang Syne from the 1930’s.  I’ve to imagine (it wasn’t talked about) that this was to honour the truth that it is Burn’s Evening.  Man and his boys made it sound extra like a New Orleans funeral march track than a celebration of the good Baird.

Lovett has misplaced his as soon as very salient hair-do, however nonetheless retains a putting look.  He’s not carrying his hat however the boots, as you’ll anticipate, are on.  His mannerisms are uncommon; he seems considerably hesitant, and virtually shy as he addresses the microphone and the viewers.  However on the similar time he has a simple manner with the gang, constructing a direct and fairly intimate rapport.  He’s additionally blissful to fall into dialog with a pupil from his alma mater who’s within the entrance stalls.   Regardless of the relatively forbidding look of the Cadogan Corridor you could possibly virtually think about that he was sitting in your front room, along with his band, chatting and singing.

That is Lovett’s ‘acoustic band’, and they’re, with no exaggeration, music royalty, every commanding prolonged Wikipedia entries (look them up).  Really that’s not true; pianist Jim Cox appears to have evaded Wiki’s consideration, however yow will discover out some fascinating stuff about him right here.  Russ Kunkel is on drums (Invoice Withers, Jackson Browne, Joni Mitchell, Jimmy Buffett, Harry Chapin, Rita Coolidge, Neil Diamond, Bob Dylan, Cass Elliot, Dan Fogelberg, Glenn Frey, Artwork Garfunkel, Nitty Gritty Grime Band, Carole King, Lyle Lovett, Reba McEntire, Stevie Nicks, Linda Ronstadt, Bob Seger, Carly Simon, Stephen Stills, James Taylor, Joe Walsh, Steve Winwood, Neil Younger, and Warren Zevon). Leland Sklar, a longstanding accomplice of Kunkel’s,  is on bass.  I ended counting what number of albums he has performed on.  Jeff White was enjoying guitar and mandolin (one other big discography) and Grammy profitable Stuart Duncan on fiddle.  White and Duncan additionally supported Lovett with some lovely harmonies.  There’s a swish ease in the way in which these long-standing mates play collectively, nothings rushed, no surprises just a few fantastic enjoying.  Jim Cox, with a few solos in the direction of the tip of the set, was excellent.

When you will have a list of songs like Lovett it’s arduous to not ship a compelling efficiency – the one arduous factor have to be deciding which songs to play (a bit, I suppose, like Paul McCartney on his latest tour)  We acquired twenty one, which stretched from his first album (the wistful Pontiac, a reasonably courageous opening track), to his most up-to-date, from which we heard ‘Pants is overrated’, ‘Are we dancing’, and the eponymous ‘twelfth June’.  One, ‘It’s a unadorned celebration’, written along with his kids on a tour bus (the place they have been, he informed us, operating up and down the aisle within the nude screaming ‘it’s a unadorned celebration’, has but to see vinyl).   And goodness me, Mr Lovett does have some good songs, which I had virtually forgotten.  ‘Right here I’m’, ‘No one is aware of me’, ‘She’s no girl’, ‘I’ve been to Memphis’ (Jim Cox piano), ‘If I had a ship’: these are all songs out of the very high drawer. Sublimely written songs about love and life, concerning the fixed battleground of genders, males versus lady, about energy and weak point, about failure and redemption, terminal remorse, and about booze, boots, hats, and Texas. I had a misplaced weekend of about 5 days in Austin in November 2016 and it was all of that (Trump had simply been made President, the bizarre metropolis was in shock). That’s the way in which it’s down in Texas, as Ry Cooder might need sung.

In between the songs and the water and tea (with honey?) we additionally had some discursive and largely self-depreciating digressions from Mr Lovett, and rather a lot about his band, and his household.  He acknowledged the presence of Each day Telegraph journalist Ian Winwood, and in addition performed his request ‘Creeps like me’ (which he hasn’t performed on stage for some thirty years, and described as ‘not a terrific track’).  I ponder how he felt about the truth that even in any case these years the Telegraph needed to lead the interview with this headline ‘Lyle Lovett on life with Julia Roberts’.  The set completed with an encore of the shifting ‘North Dakota’ (extra Jim Cox piano) and as one might need predicted, a rousing ‘That is proper (you are not from Texas). ‘Every day of human life is made up of a track, a smile and a tear’, mentioned the New Orleans Occasions Democrat in February 1905, and that I believe nearly sums up each Lyle Lovett gig, and positively this night’s.  – Nick Morgan

 

 
   

 

 

 

 



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