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| Hello, that is considered one of our (virtually) every day tastings. Santé! |
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April 27, 2025
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At present is a superb Cognac Sunday
In idea, we should always don’t have anything however good issues! In truth, we’re planning to extend the variety of “malternatives” on WF over the approaching months, in an effort to give extra prominence to much less ‘industrial’ spirits…
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The harbour of Chenac-Saint-Seurin-d’Uzet, in Charente-
Maritime… And inside the Bons Bois appellation
(Mairie de Chenac). |
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Specifically, genuine cognacs, distilled from grapes grown very regionally – if not from the producers’ personal estates – matured on website in virgin or ex-cognac French oak casks, and bottled within the area the place they’re produced. That’s a far cry from a spirit distilled from imported uncooked supplies, then casked and aged elsewhere in barrels from the opposite facet of the world, which can have beforehand held a totally unrelated beverage – although that definitely doesn’t rule out top quality, as we have seen on 1000’s of events. It’s actually a matter of philosophy, you see…
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Symphonie des Terroirs N°2 ‘L.40Y’ (48.8%, OB, Jean-Luc Pasquet, Confluences, 255 bottles, 2025) 
A mix with a median age of forty years, comprising 15% Grande Champagne, 50% Fins Bois and 35% Borderies. Symphonie N°1 was relatively magnificent again in 2023 (L.31, WF 89). If Maison Pasquet is enjoying the position of Mozart, then in idea they must craft forty-one symphonies over time, and to assume we’re solely on the second. Color: full gold. Nostril: very pretty. Sicilian cassata, honey-packed nougat, oriental biscuits scented with orange blossom, then some splendidly ripe peaches that appear to have tumbled to the bottom, with a captivating earthy edge softened by just a few drops of Sauternes, principally sémillon. Mouth: warning—hazard forward! All types of stewed fruits, sweetened with honey, vanilla and liquorice, with only a dusting of cinnamon. I don’t imply to sound smug, however this actually does really feel ‘composed’. Energetic oranges arrive subsequent, including much more sparkle. End: excellent size, not too brief, not too lengthy, and above all, extremely moreish. An amusing notice of cracked pepper dances within the aftertaste. Feedback: malt freaks, should you’ve by no means tasted nice Cognac earlier than, begin right here—it’s outrageously good and ‘straightforward’ (and sure, that’s a praise!).
SGP:651 – 90 factors. |
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Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Le Cognac d’Annick L.92’ (45.9%, OB, Grande Champagne, 152 bottles, 2025)
A Grande Champagne from Criteuil-la-Magdeleine. Any beverage bearing that first identify, from St Magdalene in Scotland to Château Magdelaine in Saint-Émilion, actually must be of top quality. Color: full gold. Nostril: much more oriental, bursting with honey, orange blossom and dried figs, earlier than rolling out the total parade of peaches and nectarines—vine peach, yellow peach, nectarines, spring women, babcocks, redhavens (I believe they’ve received the concept, S.) … A splendid nostril, and as soon as once more, each easy and seductive. Mouth: distinctive assault, firmer and even tauter than anticipated, virtually mineral and even saline, extra floral than fruity, with violets arriving and even a whisper of lavender. Then come mandarin and apricot liqueurs (like that nice one from Roulot, should you should know). End: lengthy, recent, mineral, surprisingly extra complicated than the end of the L40 mix. Feedback: relatively masterful, and it’s fairly good to check a mix and a single cask like this, each of very excessive standing. Beware although, that is exactly the kind of bottle that’s criminally vulnerable to evaporation, should you catch my drift.
SGP:651 – 91 factors. |
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That’s it, we’ve already gone too excessive. Blame JL Pasquet.
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Pierre de Segonzac ‘Lot 76’ (47.2%, Artwork Malts, Le Grand Ultimate, Grande Champagne, dame-jeanne #D80, 2025) 
As soon as once more some Belgian mates on the helm, which is after all signal. What now we have here’s a Cognac distilled on its lees, so not only a distillate from ‘clear wines’, which ought to convey additional physique and complexity—let’s see… Color: mild amber. Nostril: regardless of being fifty years outdated, or practically so, that is fairly a recent Cognac, very basic on the fragrant entrance, all about overripe apricots and mirabelles, honeyed sultanas, honeysuckle and white clover, nougat, and since Could Day is simply across the nook, real woodland lily of the valley. Add to that just a few wee touches of curry and liquorice. Mouth: very ripe peaches and orange cake, orange drops, triple sec and Muscat of Alexandria. Cautious—but once more, that is significantly seductive and thus dangerously straightforward to drink. Additionally notes of liquorice allsorts and a touch of inexperienced tea bringing steadiness to the ensemble. End: medium in size, very fruity. Apricot liqueur and sultanas, with honey and liquorice lingering within the aftertaste. Feedback: honey and liquorice, that’s scandalously tasty and ‘straightforward’, so that is one other one which’s a little bit of a menace in bottle kind.
SGP:641 – 89 factors. |
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Gousseland ‘Lot 72 La Dernière Goutte’ (40.2%, Artwork Malts, Sequence of Artwork #5, Bons Bois, barrique, cask #3, 60 bottles, 2022)
‘The final drop’ could sound a bit sombre, however the label is admittedly fairly pretty, if unhappy. We’re in Chenac-Saint-Seurin-d’Uzet, virtually on the Gironde estuary, a spot as soon as apparently famed for producing… caviar. And ‘bons bois’ Cognac too, after all. Color: amber. Nostril: we’re getting that quieter, extra restrained character typical of bons bois, however it’s not rustic within the slightest, and the nice age right here doesn’t translate into any weak point. Pretty notes of small herbs and spices—sage, coriander, oregano, myrtle, rosemary—it’s virtually like a stroll by the maquis, and it’s all very elegant, refined, and in the end complicated. Mouth: completely no purpose to worry the low alcohol stage, it’s nonetheless vigorous, if not precisely booming. Candy child tomatoes, dates, candy wine, pineau, apricots, a little bit of vin cuit… End: naturally not very lengthy, however gracefully smooth, heading in the direction of rosehip jam, with just a few notes of sultanas and floral jelly. Feedback: a captivating outdated Cognac of nice gentleness.
SGP:541 – 89 factors. |
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I’ve simply seen that some web sites, which routinely steal and combination exterior knowledge, are displaying a WF rating of 91 for the infant that follows – however I can verify I’ve by no means tasted it till now. Issues are beginning to stink fairly badly on Net 3.0, don’t you assume?
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Petite Champagne 53 yo 1969/2022 (59.8%, Michiel Wigman, Treasured Moments)
Color: amber. Nostril: properly, the difficulty is I would very properly agree with my ‘false self’, and we’ll all find yourself with critical psychological points because of this post-truth world pushed by mass delusion, DJT-style. At any price, this Cognac is completely tight and compact, all on nougat, fudge and raisin bread. However provided that relatively stunning power, water is totally required… With water: in comes mint tea, bergamot, Earl Gray, mild nougat, mirabelle jam… Mouth (neat): highly effective, edgy, jammy, honeyed, and pretty sizzling. Rapidly now… With water: spicier, nonetheless highly effective, hearty, and full-on rustic. Apples, peaches, raisins, damsons and cinnamon. End: lengthy, on the identical notes, with an additional flip of pepper. Feedback: excellently rustic.
SGP:551 – 89 factors. |
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Identical right here – I’ve by no means tasted the following one both, but it is displaying a rating of 91 on these nauseating pirate websites that do nothing however steal content material. If solely they didn’t additionally tamper with it! As we are saying again residence in Alsace, ‘s’esch necht mehr scheen’ – “it’s simply not good anymore.” Anyway, simply joking (kind of), we don’t actually care… however nonetheless, we sort of want 1,000,000 fleas would eternally itch these of us’ backsides – as our Chinese language mates would say (I believe).
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Petite Champagne 55 yo 1968/2023 (59.1%, Michiel Wigman, Treasured Moments, 132 bottles)
Color: amber. Nostril: take one third Rosebank, one third Balvenie and one third Glenmo, then stir in a touch of correct PX. With water: excellent, with relatively stunning notes of backyard cress. I’m not joking—I am keen on backyard cress. Mouth (neat): wonderful, just a bit… sturdy. Fig spirit and dried raisins. With water: sure, wonderful once more, even when decreasing this kind of spirit correctly by yourself isn’t precisely a breeze. Blood oranges, white pepper, Thai basil, pomegranates, and people peppery watercress-like notes return. Unbelievable—and I’m in love. End: lengthy, with a lightweight contact of brown sugar, sweet sugar and such. Very curious barely salty aftertaste, like in a Cognac from Ré or Oléron. Feedback: fifty-five years in cask and never a wrinkle! One imagines—with out being fully sure—that it was a well-used cask from the beginning, again in 1968.
SGP:562 – 90 factors. |
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A last toddler – the newest from one of many present stars of impartial cognac bottling – and I have to say, really bravo to them…
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Ma Cerise ‘Lot 68’ (50.3%, Malternative Belgium, Petite Champagne, 364 bottles, 2025)
A Cognac from a bouilleur de cru in Réaux-sur-Trèfle, Charente-Maritime, not removed from Jonzac. I have to admit I’d by no means heard of most of those villages, and I’m most grateful to impartial bottlers for serving to me uncover them. Speak about being a French citizen—I’m even slightly ashamed… Then once more, we do have thirty-six thousand communes in France, all feeding into an administrative mille-feuille that might make even probably the most formidable Los Angeles pastry chef weep with envy. Color: orangey amber. Nostril: a beautiful little fruity gem, easy and uncomplicated, on mirabelles, liquorice, quince and honey. It’s completely exact. With water: mirabelle liqueur, apricot liqueur, quince liqueur, pine liqueur—amen. Mouth (neat): I don’t fairly know why they referred to as this ‘ma cerise’ (my cherry), although I do certainly discover hints of kirsch and Calvados right here, with a transparent ‘bouilleur de cru’ character. We’re miles away from the high-volume, big-brand fashion. With water: the florals and spices burst large open—borage, fennel, liquorice, caraway, chamomile, poppy, little lemons, all method of citrus zests… Increase, that’s three extra factors proper there. End: medium size, with a slight natural liqueur contact—chartreuse, verbena, genepy… Leaves the palate feeling completely recent. Feedback: splendid, as soon as once more. However who is that this Cerise anyway? In French, Cerise is a girl’s identify.
SGP:661 – 91 factors. |
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