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| Hello, that is one in every of our (virtually) every day tastings. Santé! |
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February 16, 2025
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A couple of pretty frequent rums and a few true rarities
Rum is again on WF. We have loads, however we’ll keep away from structuring our line-up an excessive amount of—for extra enjoyable. Nicely, that is the plan, anyway!
(the gorgeous wolfsonian-fiu library)
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Reimonenq ‘Première Cuvée’ (40%, OB, agricole, Guadeloupe, +/-2024) 
I’m afraid we don’t have that a lot expertise with Reimonenq, however we’ll attempt to treatment that over time. This infant appears to be a younger three-year-old—some say 4 (which is why they name it ‘rhum vieux’, ha). Color: gold. Nostril: beautiful vanilla, intertwined with contemporary cane juice and wisps of mimosa and jasmine, adopted by crème brûlée. Increasingly crème brûlée, actually, together with candied orange zest. Mouth: not so gentle and, extra importantly, fairly singular, with charred wooden and vegetal tar, then more and more leaning in the direction of cough sweets. A contact of (a sense of) rosewood and, as soon as once more, a beneficiant dose of crème brûlée. End: slightly lengthy, with a touch of curry and notes of violet, liquorice, and lavender sweets. Some dried apricot within the background. Feedback: fairly shocked by the complexity of this younger creature—it’s actually good and doesn’t style ‘too younger’ in any respect.
SGP:550 – 84 factors. |
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HSE ‘VSOP Port Cask End’ (45%, OB, agricole, Martinique, +/-2024) 
As occasional rum drinkers, the concept of flavouring it with candy wine by means of ending isn’t significantly interesting, however because it’s the development, we gained’t resist an excessive amount of. Color: reddish copper. Nostril: cedarwood, blackcurrants, and black cherry jam, considerably within the type of these from Itxassou within the French Basque Nation. It doesn’t really feel very like rum in any respect—extra like a wood-aged liqueur—however in that sense, it’s fairly nice, I believe. Mouth: the Port could be very current, as are the woody spices. This provides it a dry, astringent edge regardless of the pink fruits. Nonetheless loads of cherry jam and a very good dose of grated cinnamon. End: lengthy, with closely infused black tea, candied cherries, and cloves. Feedback: this Habitation Saint-Etienne feels a bit like a ‘premix’, or like a ‘rhum arrangé au porto’ however if you happen to get pleasure from these sorts of blends, it’s nicely carried out.
SGP:651 – 78 factors. |
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Don Papa ‘Sherry Cask End’ (45%, OB, Philippines, +/-2024) 
18 months of ending in 4 forms of sherry casks: fino, PX, cream, and palo cortado. It’s a ‘restricted version’—some would possibly say that’s for the higher. Apparently, the sugar content material on this model has been moderated sufficient to qualify as “rum” slightly than “spirit drink” within the EU, not like another Don Papas. Proper then, let’s style it… Color: gold. Nostril: not unhealthy! Loads of molasses with mentholated and liquorice-like touches, then shifting in the direction of wisteria, raisins, and cane honey. Truthfully, the nostril is slightly good, however everyone knows the place the satan hides—the palate… Mouth: what’s this, no avalanche of saccharose? Fairly stunning, really, even straying into HSE territory when it comes to stability between wine, wooden, and rum. Then it veers in the direction of a household pack of liquorice allsorts however, I insist, not within the ultra-sweet means of different variations. That’s sort of outstanding. End: medium size, clear, once more with black tea, adopted by Corinth raisins and peach. Feedback: the sherries appear to have carried out an excellent job. The blenders too—one ought to by no means lose hope. One additionally will get the impression that Diageo is doing one thing much like what they did with Zacapa on the time—basically getting the model again on a greater observe ‘transparency-wise’ after buying it simply two years in the past, whether or not they have been pressured to or not..
SGP:651 – 81 factors. |
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Since miracles appear to be taking place right now…
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Dictador ‘XO Insolent’ (40%, OB, Colombia, +/-2024) 
One should admit that each the low bottling power and the truth that it’s yet one more ‘solera’ are considerably regarding, however you by no means know. A really expensive rum for a NAS at 40% (round €100)—maybe that’s the ‘insolence’ they’re referring to. Color: amber. Nostril: fir honey and low liqueur, Werther’s Originals, candied sugar, then prunes and figs. It’s very liqueur-like however, for now, additionally fairly seductive (if a bit of, let’s consider, risqué). Molasses honey, pancake syrup… Mouth: it is a rum-based liqueur. Nescafé, maple syrup, Kahlua—nicely, we are able to’t say we weren’t anticipating that. It’s nicely made, to be honest, but it surely belongs to a distinct class altogether. End: drier than anticipated, with tobacco, chicory, tea, and chocolate. Feedback: not catastrophic in any respect, however positively not our most well-liked type.
SGP:740 – 72 factors. |
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Neisson 2018/2024 ‘Straight From The Barrel’ (58.2%, OB, LMDW Singapore, 18th Anniversary, agricole, Martinique, cask #264, 241 bottles) 
It’s famous that the barrel initially contained 200 litres, with 170 remaining at disgorgement. That implies a median annual angel’s share of… er… 2.5%, is that proper? All inside their warehouse often called ‘Mainmain’. Color: gold. Nostril: the pure, mineral magnificence of Neisson is unmistakable, with a touch of crushed slate scattered over a broth of bananas, brown sugar, jasmine, liquorice, and a few olives. Nicely, roughly. With water: it veers virtually violently in the direction of pure sugarcane—not that one would complain. Mouth (neat): very exact, slightly oily, mineral, nonetheless on liquorice but additionally displaying a slight diesel be aware. With water: and right here comes the cavalry. Nonetheless tight and compact regardless of an explosion of about thirty well-ripened unique fruits and loads of honey-softened spices. Then the anticipated earthier facet emerges. End: spices and fruits of every kind, lingering for fairly a while. More and more honeyed within the aftertaste. Feedback: Mainmain? I may need likened it to a Chablis 1er Cru Montmains, however that might have been taking liberties. We do have requirements, . Nicely, in fact, it’s an excellent Neisson.
SGP:651 – 90 factors. |
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T.D.L. 22 yo 2003/2025 (55.2%, Wu Dram Clan, Trinidad, bourbon barrel, 242 bottles)
Matured for 13 years within the tropics, with the rest in Europe. These labels function conventional masks from numerous indigenous peoples of the international locations of origin, and that is actually no AI slop—bravo. Color: deep gold. Nostril: it’s spherical, it’s gentle, but it stays agency, combining a basaltic, saline, and varnished edge with white and yellow fruits. It appears to fizz barely, as if asking for just a few drops of water. Fairly regular. With water: tar, pure rubber… enjoying a bit of recreation of hide-and-seek with us, it could appear. Mouth (neat): this time, it’s the intensely fruity facet of sure TDLs that takes the lead, adopted by daring woody spices (balsa, cedar, cinnamon, pepper) that carry again some dryness. An amusing little duel in your glass… With water: ultra-ripe fruits meet touches of varnish in an instantaneous riposte—that is positively not solely a ‘fruit bomb’ TDL End: all the time well-balanced, leaning extra in the direction of the type of the perfect ‘Lighter’ Caronis. A pepperier aftertaste. Feedback: an actual journey in your glass, like a Netflix mini-series.
SGP:651 – 90 factors. |
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La Réunion 7 yo 2017/2024 (60.9%, Spirit of the Day, 325 bottles) 
A column nonetheless rum from Réunion, although the distillery stays a secret. Let’s see what we’ve obtained… Color: gentle gold. Nostril: curiously mild, although such excessive alcohol ranges can typically suppress or block aromas, can’t they. A faint contact of wooden smoke and bacon, however let’s not attempt too arduous to coax extra out of it… for now. With water: contemporary hay, bagasse, charcoal, and bitter chocolate. Not a typical nostril, however we prefer it. Mouth (neat): oh sure, you may really feel the ability. Petrol, lime, and inexperienced olives… for now. With water: growth, there it’s (if one could say so). Lime, olives, brine, tar, candy paprika, peppers, contemporary ginger. End: very lengthy, carrying the identical flavours. Feedback: superb, this could begin with an ‘S’. The column nonetheless makes it much less oily on the palate, however the general profile stays superbly taut and slightly phenolic.
SGP:462 – 87 factors. |
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Foursquare 2006/2024 (58.1%, Treasured Liquors, for Versus France, Barbados, cask #4, 250 bottles) 
Yeah, good thought—ship extra Foursquare to France. This one spent 8 years in Barbados earlier than one other 8 years within the UK. Apparently, that is pure pot nonetheless FS, which brings us much more pleasure than a French victory over the mighty All Blacks. Color: full gold. Nostril: most citrus rigidity and petrol-like notes however wrapped in almond paste and guava seasoned with mint. Earth and polish within the background. Wants a bit of time… With water: sure, it’s lovely. Ferns, moss, and peppermint, adopted by a touch of truffled rooster broth. Actually. Mouth (neat): loads of pepper over orange juice, apple, then turmeric. A faint cologney contact. With water: water works wonders, turning it distinctly ‘FS’, with praline, agave syrup, and a contact of triple sec… End: slightly lengthy, with ferns making a comeback. Let’s not overlook that ferns as soon as dominated our planet—they predate the Mesozoic period, that’s some 350 million years earlier than D. Trump, based on web sites. Feedback: very, very, superb.
SGP:551 – 89 factors. |
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Let’s flip the final one into a really, very outdated rum…
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Cuban Rum 67 yo 1955/2023 (46.3%, Fortunate Selection & HanShes, drum, cask #1/1955, 78 bottles)
A legendary outdated spirit, seemingly shared with Sansibar for Europe. Not completely certain about all that… In any case, the famend Auld Alliance bar in Singapore seems to have performed a job on this completely pre-Castro affair. Color: reddish mahogany. Nostril: it’s tough to stay neutral—not to mention impartial—with instances like this. This outdated Cuban has misplaced none of its profoundly chocolatey character, naturally marked by treasured tobaccos. However to be trustworthy, this might simply as nicely be a really outdated Macallan or an Armagnac; it’s a chic mixture of vintage waxes, leathers, smoky parts, coffees, blood oranges, camphor notes, then heading in the direction of darkish honeys and really outdated Sauternes (of the identical hue). Not a touch of fatigue in sight. Additionally, touches of black truffle. Insane. Proper, let’s cross ourselves and sort out the palate… Mouth: what energy! Pre-war Calvados, toffee, pipe tobacco, Turkish espresso, Seville oranges, then the grandest crus of chocolate. It’s fairly unbelievable how compact, coherent, and virtually tightly coiled this stays—like a jaguar poised to pounce (what?). End: merely a chic chocolate cake ready in a *** Michelin restaurant. Sure, actually. A virtually liqueur-like aftertaste, intensely honeyed, which is stunning. Feedback: I do not know the place the deep ruby glow of the color comes from, nor the liqueur-like contact on the very finish (a little bit of ‘preparation’?), however one factor is for certain—that is an totally unbelievable aged spirit. It’s not too tough to seek out outdated pre-Castro Cuban rum bottles, however full casks? Now that’s a feat!
SGP:661 – 93 factors. |
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 Verify the index of all rums we have tasted thus far
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