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| Hello, that is certainly one of our (virtually) every day tastings. Santé! |
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February 5, 2025
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A BenRiach-tacular session, Half Two
No actual standout winner yesterday, however every part was really good to superb. Let’s hold going…
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Benriach 1996/2015 (43%, Jean Boyer, Finest Cask of Scotland, Re-Coopered Hogsheads) 
At all times a smooth spot for the home of Jean Boyer. Cheers, Jean Marie up there. Amusingly, at 43% ABV, they nonetheless determined to not chill-filter it—but the whisky stays as clear as a Greenlandic mountain stream (randomly chosen). Color: pale white wine. Nostril: oh, pretty! Notes of cucumber water, even pickles, together with inexperienced apple juice and lemon, adopted by hints of damp earth and melon pores and skin. Whereas one at all times leans towards larger strengths, it have to be mentioned that generally water unlocks a malt’s fragrant potential, even at bottling. Mouth: the purity of backyard fruits, with a contact of vanilla and honey. Alas, the cucumber has disappeared (simply joking). End: medium size, with nice saline notes and extra malt, even a touch of blonde beer. Feedback: very, very, very nice.
SGP:651 – 85 factors. |
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Benriach 22 yo 2000/2022 (62.1%, SCSM, China, sherry butt, cask #25618, 246 bottles)
Color: amber. Nostril: a really gentle contact of gunpowder that shortly melts into raisins, maple syrup, pecan pie, a touch of molasses, and triple sec (or Grand Marnier). And since we’re in China, maybe a faint whiff of fortune cookie—although provided that the paper’s message is sweet. Ha. With water: doesn’t change a lot, to be sincere. A couple of notes of delicate peppers. Mouth (neat): a firmer sherry than anticipated, with an explosion of pepper, leather-based, and tobacco, adopted by the anticipated outdated walnuts. However watch out, that is over 62% ABV. With water: water transforms it considerably on the palate, bringing dried figs and heather honey to the forefront, whereas leather-based lingers within the background. End: lengthy and related, with glazed chestnuts and fairly a little bit of wooden in the long run. Feedback: pretty dry in the long run, however I discover it actually superb. A sturdy, ex-sherry Benriach with a bodybuilder’s body.
SGP:561 – 87 factors. |
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Benriach 12 yo 2009/2021 (59.8%, OB for LMDW, Conquête, Cask Version, peated Port pipe, cask #4834, 766 bottles)
Seven hundred and sixty-six bottles from a pipe, not unhealthy in any respect! Color: apricot. Nostril: completely filled with smoke, like a chimney that’s back-drafting barely. There’s a touch of crimson fruit within the background, but it surely’s the smoke, together with a contact of paraffin, that dominates for now. With water: the crimson fruits emerge, although coated in soot and wrapped in peat smoke. Blackcurrants and raspberries. Mouth (neat): very highly effective, with leather-based, peat, pepper, bell pepper, and blueberries. Increase. With water: works nicely, because the oak brings loads of spices like turmeric and ginger. The peat stays huge but pleasantly drying, whereas the crimson fruits are barely subdued. End: those self same notes persist, however blood orange makes a late look, full with its zest. Feedback: peat and Port at all times make us a bit nervous, however I have to admit this one has been dealt with superbly. It even holds its personal after the beautiful sherry from our Chinese language buddies.
SGP:566 – 87 factors. |
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Benriach 26 yo 1997/2023 (57.1%, The Duchess, Recreation & Wildlife Sequence, PX end, cask #7355) 
Is {that a} skunk on the label? We love animals, and in some ways, they’re superior to People, however nonetheless—a skunk? Or is it a honey badger? Color: deep gold. Nostril: that is amusing, with a touch of strawberry proper at the beginning, which then morphs into mountain honey, adopted by sultanas, ripe mirabelles, and a contact of recent backyard mint. A stunning nostril—smooth, mild, and totally seductive. With water: hardly any change, aside from the same old walnut/leather-based/tobacco combo making its look. Mouth (neat): oh sure, that is glorious. Very near some official ex-sherry releases, with notes of raspberry ganache, Mars bar-like caramel, and millionaire’s shortbread. With water: natural teas and infusions be part of the combination, however with virtually no sweetness. A contact of grape stems and seeds, although measured. End: lengthy, with leather-based, tobacco, walnuts, and a touch of wax. Feedback: merely superb. The duke have to be happy (or one thing like that).
SGP:561 – 88 factors. |
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Sooner or later, we’ll add 1 level for very fairly labels, just like the one developing, and deduct 1 for the horrible ones. And we’ll take off 10 factors for something too “AI”, the type of sloppy stuff that hurts our eyes and makes us overthink the way forward for humanity. And sure, in fact, packaging is a part of what makes a spirit what it’s.
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Benriach 26 yo 1997/2023 (61.2%, The Whisky Blues, hogshead, cask #7336, 165 bottles) 
A really stunning label certainly. Color: gold. Nostril: creamy, malty, smooth, with vanilla sponge cake and orange loaf. It’s easy, it’s stunning, it’s plain. With water: a lot the identical. A real barley extravaganza. Mouth (neat): right here we go, this hits a 90. Pure malt, biscuits, tarte tatin, honeys, and ras-el-hanout. Remarkably mild even at this energy. With water: a flurry of little herbs and spices bursts in, virtually transferring. End: pretty lengthy, creamy, with notes of oriental pastries adopted by the same old spices—paprika, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Even a contact of quince paste. Feedback: and so, if we have been actually factoring within the label, this could rating 91.
SGP:551 – 90 factors. |
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Benriach 23 yo 1997/2020 (50.7%, The Whisky Company, ‘Preserve Going’, sherry butt, 427 bottles)
Effectively, we’re solely 5 years late… Color: gold. Nostril: this was a really well-matured butt, providing a nostril that’s recent, fruity, and mineral. Peaches, seaside sand, mirabelles, and a contact of crushed slate. Pretty refined, leaning in direction of the model of a wonderful small-batch Cognac. Sure, certainly. Water is pointless. Mouth: superb, considerably harking back to the Whisky Blues, however extra targeted on Williams pear. Actually, the pear guidelines the stage for now. With water: growth, tarte tatin and quince paste, plus a couple of blades of grass. End: medium size, with the pear making a return. Feedback: these Whisky Company bottlings, although we hardly see them anymore, usually really feel like high fashion whiskies. Right here’s one other nice instance…
SGP:551 – 89 factors. |
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Benriach 24 yo 1997/2021 (52.9%, Whisky-Fässle, hogshead)
Superb that Fässle prints ‘Please Take pleasure in Responsibly’ in daring on its labels. After all, nobody’s going to drive a 2.5-tonne American electrical automobile with questionable brakes at 250km/h after downing half a litre of this Benriach. Color: pale gold. Nostril: nicely, it’s primarily the identical whisky because the TWA, roughly. Mouth: identical. Maybe an extra pretty word of lemonade. End: identical. Feedback: with my apologies to the gang of geese.
SGP:551 – 89 factors. |
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Benriach 25 yo 1996/2021 (45.6%, Liquid Treasures, hogshead, 246 bottles)
1 bonus level (fictitious) for the fairly nautical, virtually “yachting” label. Color: pale straw. Nostril: the identical model as earlier than, simply barely lighter. Apple juice, pear juice (a mortal sin), vanilla, and acacia honey. Mouth: very gentle, with an virtually diaphanous character, that includes watered apple juice and light-weight beers (however European ones, naturally). End: medium size, extra natural, with apple juice and a contact of cinnamon. A touch of pepper lingers longer than anticipated. Feedback: a fairly mental Benriach—gentle, refined, and simple to overlook in the event you don’t give it the eye it deserves.
SGP:551 – 86 factors. |
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Benriach 33 yo 1991/2024 (55.9%, WhiskyLand, Decadent Drinks, second-fill sherry casks, 118 bottles)
Now we’re speaking about some correct age! Let me remind you, we’re at all times looking out for markers of the best Benriachs (1968-1971-1976). Basically, mango. Color: gold. Nostril: maybe, certainly, there are hints of these unique fruits, however for now, it’s principally guava and papaya. Additionally, beeswax and a pile of very ripe apples. A contact of plasticine too. With water: orange juice! Like love, tradition, and kindness, orange juice would possibly simply save the world. Mouth (neat): that is critical enterprise. Apple cake drizzled with lemon juice and linden honey. With water: nonetheless no mango, however a pleasant mixture of honey and orange biscuits. End: good size, with notes of truffles, Danish pastries, thyme tisane, and amaretti. Feedback: as anticipated, this can be a magnificent outdated Speyside in its pure state. However be cautious with water—it’s as delicate as an outdated Swiss watch. Higher to not add any in any respect.
SGP:551 – 90 factors. |
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One final one for at this time, let’s go on…
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Benriach 28 yo 1976/2005 (53.7%, OB, hogshead, cask #8081, 189 bottles)
Now this must be one thing particular. From a type of ‘peated’ batches made by Seagram’s throughout certainly one of Scotland’s ‘peat race’ period. Many Benriach casks have been later re-racked through the distillery’s revival underneath Billy Walker & co. These days are lengthy gone, as we’ve seen repeatedly, however let’s not deny ourselves the pleasure… Color: deep gold. Nostril: gorgeous! By no means have banana skins, pure rubber, and mango peels (bingo!) been so magnificent. Large subtlety, with even a touch of miso within the background. A really philosophical malt. With water: lower hay, charred pinewood, and meaty notes—marrow, odd sausages, smoked bacon. Mouth (neat): mainland peated malts aren’t often my factor (Brora and Longrow being the exceptions), however that is completely different. Thai broth, explosive citrus, and—cue trumpets—‘not-so-ripe’ mangoes. Very good inexperienced spices, pepper, and chili oil for pizza. With water: the fruits and wax seize management. Peated mirabelles—somebody must make that occur. No, too busy, thanks. End: lengthy, softer, extra honeyed, fruitier, and extra quintessentially Benriach. Smoky, peppered orange marmalade—does that exist?? Feedback: a grandiose Benriach, the type they merely don’t make anymore. Was this a flash within the pan? That mentioned, I nonetheless choose the unpeated variations of the identical vintages; these distinctive peated expressions nonetheless path the likes of Brora by three or 4 factors.
SGP:664 – 91 factors. |
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