The primary time many go to Rioja, they’re not solely certain what to anticipate. Neatly terraced vineyards so far as they eye can see? Wine routes adorned with tasting rooms and flashy accommodations? In fact, Rioja is much more right down to earth than that. Residence although it’s to a few of Spain’s biggest wines and a few actually good eating places.
The waves of slopes and small hills that adorn the area dispel any concept of ‘neat’, although to see them in full bloom remains to be fairly exceptional. From the cooler north of Rioja Alavesa, to the hotter south of Rioja Oriental (within the area’s southeast), there’s little uniformity; extra of an understated, shifting ruggedness. Assume ‘Montana meets Spanish wine nation’, interspersed with lovely villages, pierced by the mighty Ebro river and framed by the Sierra de Cantabria mountains. That is the nice open air with a healthy dose of effective wine and glorious meals. From horseback using to mountain climbing, tapas and pintxo routes and gorgeous pure parks, there’s much more to see and do in Rioja than first meets the attention.
Mountain climbing in Rioja Alta
Within the north of Rioja, altitudes rise and the climate turns into noticeably cooler, the panorama noticeably greener. Limestone cliffs rise out of the terrain, and small, dense forests are commonplace, uninterrupted by the vineyards that unfold throughout this lovely panorama. That is the proper place to learn to rock climb, and Grape Aventura – based mostly between Haro and Ollauri, and no strangers to combining out of doors actions with vineyard visits – has the proper course to show you the best way to just do that.
When you’ve mastered the fundamentals of climbing and end up on the high of a small bluff, you’ll be rewarded with essentially the most gorgeous, panoramic views of the area – the form of view that may’t be bought with an costly cocktail in a high-rise lodge – and also you’ll have earned it!
This may very well be achieved as a day journey from both Haro or Logroño, however an alternative choice could be to remain in a single day and actually mix it with a vineyard expertise, similar to Resort Villa de Abalos within the wine-centric city of the identical title. Getting back from a tough morning’s mountain climbing, freshening up after which having the afternoon to get pleasure from a protracted, leisurely lunch with loads of wine? Signal me up.
By no means thoughts the vines, there’s no scarcity of rocks and mountains to be climbed within the Rioja area. Credit score: Adie Bush / Getty Photographs
Rioja on horseback
If the surroundings of Rioja invitations comparisons to a number of the most ruggedly lovely locations on the earth, there’s additionally the chance to discover it in a equally old style means. One of many lovely issues about wine nation is that, harvest time apart, roads are comparatively traffic-free, and there are various off-road trails which are simply navigable and provide you with a wholly completely different perspective on the area than may very well be achieved by driving round it. Rioja Like a Native is an oenotourism enterprise run by Rebeca Perez, who believes precisely that, and organises some ways to expertise a unique aspect of Rioja whereas studying all about its historical past, tradition and, after all, wine manufacturing.
Amongst different actions, small teams of horses can be found to rent with an knowledgeable information, who will lead you on a route throughout Rioja Alta, with two vineyard visits punctuating the experience. There’s one thing beautiful about traversing the area in the identical means that the locals did for hundreds of years, whereas diving into that exact same historical past and tradition. Decide-up and drop-off at your lodge or lodging can be included, so no want to fret in regards to the logistics!
Getting round Rioja
Travelling to Rioja is straightforward, although it has no worldwide airport of its personal, the closest being in Bilbao, from the place you may both make your technique to the area’s fundamental cities Haro or Logroño, which is able to take roughly 1.5 hours by automotive or 2.5 hours by practice. Nonetheless, hiring a automotive is strongly beneficial, both in Bilbao, San Sebastián (relying in your route) or in Rioja itself. Many of the actually attention-grabbing areas, outdoors Haro and Logroño, require a automotive to entry, and personal automobile rent shall be troublesome and costly.
The place related, we’ve made some suggestions for lodging right here, however it’s attainable to seek out gorgeous boutique accommodations, mattress & breakfast and rural homes in most of the cities and villages of Rioja. Haro and Logroño stay essentially the most densely populated areas and each make for glorious bases, however when you’re in search of one thing a bit of extra off-the-beaten-track, then comply with the recommendation on this article.
Credit score: JP Map Graphics Ltd
Sierra Cebollera nationwide park
There shall be moments while you wish to disconnect from wine utterly, and for that there’s no higher place than the Parque Pure de la Sierra de Cebollera, a spread of mountains to the south of Logroño designated a nationwide park, and with good motive. This a part of Spain is the tail finish of what’s referred to as ‘Inexperienced Spain’ – the cool winds and rain introduced from the northerly Atlantic ocean aren’t as important as in Galicia, additional west, however are sufficient to create an unbelievable panorama, wealthy in biodiversity and life. The park begins at Villoslada de Cameros, a brief drive south on the N-111 from Logroño, after which spreads out throughout virtually 24,000 hectares of unbelievable inexperienced hills, forests and fields.
Numerous strolling routes can be found, from a mild 6km with a 200m elevation achieve, to an arduous 24km stroll with greater than 600m of elevation gained in the course of the route. You’ll end up passing by way of dense forests of Pyrenean oak bushes, pine and birch, previous waterfalls and areas intensely filled with native natural world. Crossing streams and rivers, you’ll generally ponder whether you’re in Spain or the Lake District. An ideal daytime itinerary earlier than exploring the gastronomic scene of Logroño at evening – you’ll have earned the pintxos.
The village of Ezcaray nestles within the Oja valley on the foot of the Sierra de la Demanda mountains. Credit score: James Sturcke / Alamy Inventory Picture
Rioja Oriental
Essentially the most southerly of the sub-regions of Rioja, Rioja Oriental is its largest and least densely populated. Consequently, that is typically new territory even for many who have visited Rioja earlier than, and is dwelling to a few of its most gorgeous surroundings. It was among the many prime winery areas for the traditional Romans and there are numerous websites that also protect the unique stone lagares that have been as soon as used for some very rudimentary winemaking!
To begin with, you’re going to wish lodging and I can’t advocate Posada de Urreci extremely sufficient: a stunning rural home positioned on the sting of the village of Aldeanueva de Cameros. You’ll want a automotive to strike out into the guts of Rioja Oriental, however coming dwelling shall be as a lot of a pleasure because the adventures themselves. The pure great thing about the Cuevas de Ortigosa de Cameros caves is a brief journey west (simply again into Rioja Alta territory) – an historical rock formation solely accessible by crossing an iron bridge, and the one accessible caves of their variety in Rioja. Carry one thing heat to put on, even in the summertime!
Ortigosa de Cameros caves are proper by the González Lacasa reservoir
From right here, it’s a brief drive to the El Rasillo nautical membership, on the waters of the González Lacasa reservoir, for a superb lunch after which possibly a day of crusing, windsurfing or simply having fun with the view and the tranquility of the water. In the event you nonetheless have time, a go to to Aldeanueva de Ebro is important – a lovely village that additionally has considered one of Rioja’s most necessary wine museums (test forward for opening occasions). It’ll be a busy day, actually, however a very distinctive one.
Excessive-jinks in Rioja
If the above choices haven’t happy your want for journey and discovery, then take into account a go to to Ojapark, the final word out of doors membership in Rioja. With an impediment course, paintballing, waterslides, climbing wall, archery course, mini-golf, even a go-karting observe, there’s one thing for everybody right here, and guided actions may be booked for teams if team-building is your objective. There’s a big picnic space open air and a ready picnic basket may be ready when you’d like. Better of all, it’s positioned on the highway west of Logroño (take the A-12 to Santo Domingo de la Calzada and switch south), en path to the city of Ezcaray, considered one of Rioja’s most charming cities, set in opposition to a surprising backdrop of the Oja valley by which it sits.
Ezcaray can be dwelling to arguably the area’s biggest restaurant, the Michelin two-star El Portal de Echaurren and its related lodge. After all of the journeys round Rioja, a bit of little bit of luxurious may simply be the perfect technique to spherical issues off.
Let your hair down
If there’s one factor the Spanish know the best way to do, it’s throw a great celebration. Rioja, like most areas in Spain, has culturally necessary celebrations all year long which are sometimes solely recognized inside the area itself. They have an inclination to happen from spring by way of to autumn, although there’s so very many it’s onerous to maintain observe! Every village has its personal occasions, and the next are simply a number of the most notable. In case your journey coincides with one, it’s properly price going to see for your self…
Alava olive oil competition
Spain is by far the world’s largest producer of olive oil (reported at 1.38m tonnes for the 2024-25 season by Olive Oil Instances in February), and Rioja has its half to play with the extremely regarded Arroniz olive, which is exclusive to the area. Happening in late March, the Feria del Aceite de Oliva de Alava is a celebration of all issues associated to olives; guided tastings, visits to producers, good meals and naturally, good olive oil. It takes place in Moreda de Alava, Lanciego and Oyón.
The dancers of Anguiano
Some of the in style festivals in Rioja, this tribute to Mary Magdelaine includes eight males sporting vibrant costumes and strolling on stilts; very dramatic! This road competition brings out the crowds who wish to socialise, drink and benefit from the brilliant spectacle because it parades by way of the streets of Anguiano. Search for this in Might, July and September.
The dancers within the small city of Anguiano, south of Nájera, Rioja Alta. Credit score: Lumir Pecold / Getty Photographs
Haro wine competition
Essentially the most well-known competition of Rioja and with good motive; the Batalla del Vino is as a lot enjoyable because it sounds. Technically this begins on 23 June, however the actual climax and enjoyable is on the morning of the twenty ninth, with greater than 1,000 revellers dousing each other with wine, earlier than returning to Haro to proceed the revelry. For sure, put on garments you don’t thoughts disposing of afterwards!
Fiestas de San Mateo
Happening in Logroño in mid-September, the competition of St Matthew is a celebration that dates again to the twelfth century and celebrates the harvest, although in fashionable occasions that is typically nonetheless properly underway. It’s fairly the spectacle, with Logroño packed stuffed with road occasions, singing, dancing and good occasions. In the event you have been ever in search of every week to be in Logroño, this could be the one.
