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| Hello, that is considered one of our (virtually) each day tastings. Santé! |
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November 3, 2024
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A phrase of warning
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are executed from the standpoint of a malt whisky fanatic who, what’s extra, is aboslutely not an knowledgeable in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or another spirits. Thanks – and peace! |
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A number of Armagnacs this time
Rum, rum, cognac, Armagnac, rum, rum, cognac… That does appear to be the rhythm of our Malternatives, doesn’t it? So at the moment, it’s Armagnac. We’ll attempt to method this in a barely unstructured method – I do know we all the time say that and find yourself doing overly Cartesian vertical tastings, however we’ll actually do this time, promise.
A classic commercial from the Forties. The angels didn’t simply drink; in addition they distilled, even when the nonetheless they used wasn’t precisely conventional for the area, was it.
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Dartigalongue 2010 ‘Folle Blanche’ (48%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, 492 bottles, Sept 2024) 
Absolutely matured in good previous Gascon oak, no fashionable mizunara or syrupy PX meddling right here, so no want for concern. The label mentions ‘récolte 2010’, a useful reminder that classic dates are tied to the harvest yr relatively than distillation. Color: mild amber. Nostril: ah, splendid. We’ve acquired furnishings wax, almond milk, toasted sesame, dried figs, a contact of oil paint, winery peaches, and juicy oranges. The waxy notes actually elevate this, nudging it quietly but undeniably into malt whisky territory. Mouth: a lot the identical sentiment—virtually malty and only a whisper smoky, with a touch of lactic funk. Suppose powdered espresso, Ovaltine, sultanas, adopted by prunes, a scattering of porcini mushrooms, and a delicate saline edge. End: lengthy, leaning into chocolatey territory, with lingering espresso and a ultimate flourish of marmalade and liquorice. Feedback: cracking stuff, this younger Armagnac kicks off with a daring but refined fashionable contact.
SGP:661 – 87 factors. |
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Laterrade 50 yo (45.1%, Poh ! Spirits, Armagnac, 90 bottles, 2024) 
Ugni Blanc and Baco. Laterrade is a comparatively younger buying and selling home, as is Poh ! Spirits, and it’s all the time a pleasure to see recent, passionate bottlers pushing ahead with their very own alternatives. The label sports activities a bunch of flying moustaches, which instantly makes me consider… expensive Charlie Maclean. Color: full amber. Nostril: this one leans extra into traditional attraction and class, providing a splendidly floral bouquet—broom, hibiscus, and jasmine—adopted by a medley of wildflower honeys, sultanas, and a pleasant grappa-like fragrant high quality, maybe paying homage to marc de Gewürztraminer (I do know, no umlaut in French). It’s vibrant, virtually playful, with hints of rose petal. Mouth: beautifully delicate, practically creamy like a liqueur, however with an underlying earthy and spicy stress that leads into fir honey and strong Québec maple syrup from the northern climes, the place I imagine it tastes its best. There’s completely no harshness; this venerable Armagnac is solely benevolent. End: lengthy, with traditional notes of pine bud and liquorice showing as anticipated, ending with chestnut honey and a mild espresso echo. Feedback: a rare previous Armagnac, or as they could say within the Gers, ‘it goes down like an up-and-under.’ Take care, although—you could possibly simply polish off an entire bottle with out even considering.
SGP:551 – 90 factors. |
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Château de Laubade 2010/2021 ‘L’Enchanteur’ (45.2%, OB, Les Curiosités de Laubade, 562 bottles)
This one had an 8-month ending stint in an ex-Doisy Daëne cask, a relatively nice Sauternes. Truly a Barsac like Coutet or Climens, however all Barsac can name themselves Sauternes. I’m glad they’ve labelled it a ‘curiosity’; within the whisky world, they’d be spinning a grandiose story of the last word, unprecedented, divinely revolutionary pairing. Color: full gold. Nostril: effectively, it’s true {that a} younger Armagnac and a younger Sauternes do a splendid tango collectively. I wouldn’t go as far as to say the Sémillon takes over, however the mixture of apricots, honey, and yellow flowers works fantastically. There’s citron liqueur, mandarin, unmistakable Sauternes notes, and even a whisper of recent rubber, which provides a pleasant structural edge. Mouth: sinful, frankly. Extra spices, extra honey, extra raisins, and a complete household pack of liquorice allsorts. Dried apricot halves, lush and chewy. End: medium size, with candy fudge and runny caramel. Sure, that too is sinful. Feedback: the ending in Sauternes feels pure, unforced, and completely logical.
SGP:661 – 87 factors. |
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Domaine de Rounagle 2009/2024 (53.9%, Zero 9 Spirits, Ténarèze, Ar06)
These labels are wild, Ténarèze is wild, the whole lot right here feels delightfully unhinged. Very French, certainly. Color: bronze gold. Nostril: it’s flawed, however wait, flawed can nonetheless be beautiful. My neighbour insists all Laphroaigs are faulty, simply to present you a little bit of perspective. Anyway, we’re greeted with beneficiant notes of mead and Calvados, a great dose of Nescafé, varied Starbucks concoctions, a repeat of Ovaltine, and even some leek and cauliflower soup sweetened with honey. With water: zero probability of profitable awards however most attraction for whisky fanatics. There’s a metallic edge, like previous brass, and a contact of fine-quality retsina. Mouth (neat): very malty, really. It looks like a sturdy, ex-Amontillado-inflected malt joined forces with a British Guyanese rum. It’s a bit bonkers and completely implausible. With water: what’s this, absinthe? A spirit that defies classification. End: lengthy, advanced, barely smoky, and undeniably esoteric. Feedback: was any of this intentional? Managed? Examined and accepted? Who is aware of—nevertheless it’s deliciously inconceivable.
SGP:562 – 87 factors. |
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Enclos du Simsat 2003 (48.6%, Genuine Spirits, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2024) 
A mix of Baco and Ugni Blanc from a small domaine that, fact be instructed, we’d by no means heard of earlier than—not that it means something. Color: gold. Nostril: a recent and energetic Armagnac, filled with power with crisp apples, vibrant citrus, and an abundance of assorted honeys, together with hints of pollen and beeswax. All of this melds into sultanas and luscious candy wine tones paying homage to each Petit and Grand Manseng. There’s additionally a refreshing twist from liquorice and star anise, conserving it splendidly zesty. Mouth: it begins off extra ‘conventional,’ woodier, with notes of bitter chocolate, black espresso, pine resin, and propolis. Not what I anticipated, however let’s see what water does. With water: some backyard fruits reappear, apples and pears, however that pine observe stays dominant. End: relatively lengthy and resinous, with touches of mint and darkish chocolate. Feedback: I liked the nostril, however the palate, with its extra pronounced wooden affect, was only a tiny-wee tad tougher for me.
SGP:561 – 83 factors. |
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Domaine Jean-Bon 1992 (50.1%, Genuine Spirits, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2024) 
Pure Baco. They are saying Baco can drive you mad, and ultimately, you would possibly begin resembling both D. Trump or JL Mélenchon. So, finest to tread fastidiously… Color: amber. Nostril: ah sure, varnish and wooden glue up entrance, adopted by overripe apples, Basque cake, almond biscuits, and recent tobacco. With water: a pleasant citrusy and natural stress emerges, virtually refreshing on the nostril. Mouth (neat): spot on. Extra varnish and glue, lemon liqueur, sharp lime juice, and acidic white wine… You may virtually rely your vertebrae because it slides down—that’s the great thing about it. Severely, it’s cracking stuff. With water: brings out tart little inexperienced apples, the sort you’d discover in a country parish backyard someplace in Bas-Armagnac. And sure, nonetheless a contact of varnish. End: lengthy, taut, recent, and delightfully rustic. Feedback: truthfully, it’s good, immediately transporting you to vacation mode within the area. Who wants different stimulants?
SGP:461 – 88 factors. |
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Domaine de Charron 2008/2024 (50.2%, Swell de Spirits, Bas-Armagnac)
100% Baco from considered one of our favorite domaines, the one rumoured to be elevating zebras. Color: full amber. Nostril: very clear, compact, and fashionable, with an impeccably crafted fruitiness—assume ripe mango and banana. With water: in come pretty touches of mint and verbena. Mouth (neat): oh, good. There’s certainly mint, alongside thyme honey, apricots, prunes, and citron zest. It actually makes itself heard. With water: splendid. Extra mint, lemon, and a touch of chocolate. End: a lot the identical, with simply the faintest whisper of lemon. The mint lingers charmingly—this one’s not going anyplace. Feedback: it’s tight, structured, and beautifully executed. Charron with a menthol twist.
SGP:562 – 89 factors. |
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(BTW, the place is Baraillon?)
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Domaine Lous Pibous 1994/2024 (54.8%, L’Encantada, LMDW Foundations, cask #132bis, 120 bottles)
Lous Pibous has been ‘out of biz’ since 2004, but L’Encantada continues to hold the torch with simple aptitude. The truth that Pibous is long-gone does appear a little bit of an injustice when in comparison with the survival of some really dreadful choices on the planet of rum (no names, however you recognize them). Color: pink amber. Nostril: heat and barely spicy, with blood oranges, peonies, and pink peppercorns. It’s splendidly delicate, with a delicate fermentative edge, like sourdough bread. With water: good, evoking previous wooden, tobacco, blood oranges, and aromatic herbs. Mouth (neat): heavens! Caramel, chocolate, and deep, resonant Armagnac. That 55% ABV would possibly really feel a contact too scorching for an Armagnac—only a private commentary; it wouldn’t really feel the identical with malt whisky, which generally lacks this sort of depth. With water: delighted to report that we’ve tamed it. Beautiful liquorice, aged rum vibes, mint, orange zest, and maybe fennel, however definitely liquorice root. End: dry and barely astringent, with a faint contact of artichoke. Feedback: fairly the journey, this Lous Pibous 1994. Not the best spirit to comply with, however one effectively well worth the journey.
SGP:661 – 87 factors. |
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Château de Laubade 2003/2021 (52.7%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, cask #200024, chai #3, tirage #1)
A nice instance of a cask that’s been ‘drawn’ from a number of instances. To be sincere, I can’t be sure that is certainly tirage #1 in my tulip glass, however let’s face it, most of us couldn’t care much less. You understand what I imply? Color: amber. Nostril: completely pretty! Sultanas, freshly peeled oranges, fruity and clean Italian olive oil, jujubes, and sorb apples… close to perfection. With water: mint tea—magical stuff. Mouth (neat): perfection, actually. White chocolate, nougat, roasted pecans, assorted honeys, sultanas, blonde cigarette tobacco, and white turron. With water: cautious now, don’t overdo it; I feel Armagnac collapses a bit of sooner than whisky when watered down. Light mint, natural infusions, and hints of fruit peels. End: lengthy, with delicate notes lingering. Feedback: truthfully, I’m virtually embarrassed to say this, however skip the water with such a brandy, particularly when it dances simply over 50% ABV—you’ll solely spoil it if you happen to’re not cautious, if you happen to catch my drift. Past these esoteric issues, this little Laubade is simply good.
SGP:451 – 90 factors. |
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Final one please, and rapidly…
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Alabat 1992/2024 (50.5%, OB, LMDW Foundations, cask #37, 192 bottles)
This one hails from Domaine de Péré, in Bourrouillan, deep within the coronary heart of the Gers—a land the place tales of witches, forbidden rituals, and wild feasts abound. What can I say, the Gers is the Gers. Oh, and by the best way, Alabat’s labels are a number of the best of the previous few years, fingers down. Si! Color: copper amber. Nostril: previous wine notes, earthy mushrooms, stewed fruits, flambéed bananas, mild molasses, and overripe cherries. Nonetheless reserving judgment right here. With water: a great deal of pipe tobacco. Then once more, I’m conscious that youthful spirit fans in all probability don’t have any clue what pipe tobacco even smells like. Mouth (neat): very conventional, with aged wooden, extra tobacco, natural teas, fudge, caramel, and sticky pine resin. With water: fir wooden involves the fore, adopted by pine and fir bud liqueur. Superb, although maybe not completely ueber-transcendent. End: lengthy, with that ever-present resinous character, then raisins rounding issues out. Feedback: these Armagnacs are like a rollercoaster—earthy, rustic, and filled with countryside spirit.
SGP:461 – 87 factors. |
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A really excessive normal as soon as once more at the moment, however let’s keep in mind that nobody would consider sending us subpar stuff (we all know it does exist), whereas we ourselves by no means exit of our method to search it as we generally do for whiskies. Keep in mind, that is ‘a whisky weblog’. Proper then, till subsequent time.
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