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| Hello, that is certainly one of our (virtually) every day tastings. Santé! |
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December 25, 2024
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Merry Christmas!
We’re Going to Eleven – plus Two – with Port Ellen (1969-1983)
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| Port Ellen earlier than WWII (Diageo) |
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| Port Ellen at evening in March 2024 (particular occasion – WF Archive) |
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As soon as once more, my apologies for this headline, ha. In any case, 2024 can have been the 12 months of the restart for the well-known Islay distillery, following a reconstruction that was decidedly freer than that of Brora, which was rebuilt virtually identically. We had been lucky sufficient to witness Port Ellen’s first distillations this previous March, below completely unbelievable early spring sunshine, with a lightweight that solely Scotland can provide.
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| However let’s not digress—at present, as we face a wait of ten to 12 years earlier than tasting the mature new Port Ellen (though we wouldn’t rule out wandering via the warehouses within the meantime), we’re as soon as once more paying tribute to Port Ellen because it was between 1967 and 1983, its ultimate interval of exercise earlier than an extended, forty-year silence. It’s at all times placing to recall that Port Ellen, in its most up-to-date incarnation earlier than closure, had solely “spoken” for sixteen years in complete—borrowing a phrase from the Ileachs themselves. Previous to that, it had remained closed from 1929 to 1966! |
| Immediately, we’re going to pattern Port Ellens from numerous durations, spanning the late Sixties to the spring of 1983. We’ve solely ever tasted the 1967 or 1968 as soon as—via the well-known 12-year-old expression supplied to company throughout Queen Elizabeth’s go to to the island in 1980. We all know of no others, as the primary classic of Port Ellen to be extensively launched by retailers was 1969—and that’s exactly the place we’ll start this little tasting session. |
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Port Ellen 24 yo 1969/1993 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail for Sestante for Carato, The Van Gogh Assortment, sherry wooden) 
Gordon & MacPhail seem like among the many solely impartial bottlers to have acquired ‘new filling’ from Port Ellen as early as 1969. These years coincided with the increase in somewhat smoky blends throughout the globe, notably Johnnie Walker, which possible prompted the DCL group to spice up manufacturing on Islay, thus reviving Port Ellen. Color: gold. Nostril: we now have typically questioned why malts from that period appeared to deal with bottling strengths as little as 40% ABV so properly, whereas many up to date malts are likely to falter barely at such ranges. As you’ll have guessed, this 1969 is remarkably recent but impressively composed on the nostril, although we all know the 12 months was magical at Port Ellen. Tiger balm, oysters, tar liqueur, smoked fish, eucalyptus, thyme tea, menthol, plus hints of an ‘outdated manufacturing facility’ and ‘historical library’. In brief, outdated paper, used oils, iron, aged leather-based, and vintage waxes… An astounding nostril. Mouth: elegant, profoundly Port-Ellennian, with an astonishingly ashy and tarry energy adopted by bitter almonds and a rising presence of seawater. The salinity is unbelievable, virtually inexplicable at this energy. Within the background, touches of squid ink, oyster sauce, and carbon mud emerge. End: it’s uncommon for a whisky this drying to stay so marvellous. A way of sucking on coal. Waves of seawater return via the retro-olfaction. Feedback: it’s at all times a bit tough to start out a tasting with such splendour, as it might put another malts at an obstacle. Then again, it’s typically higher to start with lighter and extra fragile strengths. Supposedly. I need to add that these whiskies do require just a little focus—even at such levels and regardless of the distillate’s grandeur, they could simply slip by unnoticed.
SGP:467 – 94 factors (with a slight contact of sentiment, I freely admit). |
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Port Ellen 1977/1992 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Alternative) 
This options the everyday ‘outdated map label’ of that period, which adopted the ‘brown banner label’ and, earlier than that, a number of ‘outdated black labels’. It was later changed by the ‘new map label’ within the late Nineteen Nineties, together with cork stoppers as a substitute of the screw caps, which had been criticised on the time however are actually considerably missed right here and there. Mates are by no means happy. Color: pale gold. Nostril: if I could say so, this isn’t in the identical league because the improbable 1969, exhibiting overripe apples, dried seaweed, slight cardboard-like and oily touches, dried mint leaves, and a faint trace of hay. The peat, barely medicinal, is extra subdued, although one should recall that the newly rebuilt Caol Ila had simply resumed large-scale manufacturing of peated whisky after being demolished in 1972 and reconstructed. Nonetheless, this stays a really beautiful Port Ellen, particularly as soon as notes of lime and smoked salmon emerge. Mouth: far smokier and much more bitter than the nostril suggests, providing chilly mint tea, black pepper, outdated paper, and a hint of bitter caramel. It tends to fall off considerably mid-palate, virtually definitely as a result of decrease energy. End: medium size, with a metallic impression (silver spoon) and peppered, salted apples. There’s additionally a slight trace of inexperienced espresso. Feedback: a really high-quality outdated Port Ellen, albeit much less confident, extra fragile, and barely disjointed. I’d additionally add that these ‘G&M CC’ releases at 40% ABV suffered considerably from comparability with their cask-strength counterparts, particularly the very good ‘CASK’ sequence.
SGP:566 – 88 factors. |
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Port Ellen 15 yo 1977/1993 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Alternative, John Gross & Co. Baltimore)
By no means shying away from any sacrifice, here’s a model of the identical whisky, or a really related batch, bottled for the US. Do you know, by the way in which, that Low Robertson, homeowners of Port Ellen, had been one of many first—if not the primary—Scottish homes to export their malts to the US? Their most well-known mix, full of Port Ellen malt in fact, was referred to as ‘Outdated Weapons’. Color: yellow gold. Nostril: initially completely different, maybe a contact waxier and cardboard-like, additionally barely extra pastry-like (pecan tart), but the 2 1977s ultimately converge as soon as all of the molecules settle. A really charming, old-style charcoal nostril. Mouth: we’re very shut proper from the beginning, with this extremely saline profile and smoked fish. It might are likely to fade barely afterward, as shellfish, citrus, and tars briefly take over. End: medium size, barely cardboardy and, as soon as once more, faintly metallic. A touch of inexperienced pear. The aftertaste returns to extra typical ‘Port Ellen’ notes, that includes tar, seawater, and fish oil. Feedback: we’re nonetheless not within the realm of burnt rubber and cask-strength solvents, however it’s true that we stay throughout the so-called lighter bottlings.
SGP:566 – 88 factors. |
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Port Ellen 1979 (40%, Spirit of Scotland, Speymalt – Gordon & MacPhail +/-1994)
Like Jas. Gordon, Spirit of Scotland was a model utilized by Gordon & MacPhail in sure markets the place differentiating from the principle label was possible pushed by purely business causes. In any case, we now have by no means observed any important distinction when it comes to high quality. Color: pale gold. Nostril: a extra direct model, maybe narrower but in addition extra compact and cohesive, with elevated notes of lemon, chalk, and iodine, in addition to a distinctly extra medicinal character, that includes bandages and mercurochrome… It’s fairly magnificent, and one can’t assist however consider the neighbouring distillery simply to the east. And no, we’re not but talking of the brand new Portintruan distillery – but. In any case, there may be very good pressure on this nostril. Mouth: as with the 1969, the low energy is hardly noticeable, totally offset by a nervy distillate that even hints at manzanilla, with pronounced chalky, saline, and recent walnut tones. It stays very clear, regardless of a wave of ashes and burnt matter arriving in drive. End: virtually lengthy, barely vinegary and distinctly lemony, fiercely tarry, saline, and nonetheless medicinal. Loads of inexperienced pepper, ashes, and brine linger within the aftertaste. Feedback: we now have buddies who get pleasure from these Port Ellens as mizuwari, and I can affirm they deal with this therapy fantastically. I imply the malts, in fact.
SGP:467 – 91 factors. |
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Port Ellen 24 yo 1975/1999 (43%, Signatory Classic, Millennium Version, cask #1764, 355 bottles)
For the document, we adored these steel tubes however alas! they had been just a little ill-prepared for the rise of on-line purchasing and infrequently suffered all types of misfortunes throughout transit. Color: pale gold. Nostril: a extra restrained Port Ellen, virtually whispering, with moist newspapers, ink, small oysters, and seaweed at low tide, adopted by a petrol-like Riesling character paying homage to Ribeauvillé. The peat by no means intrudes, and there are even hints of yellow melon. Mouth: the impression of simply three additional levels on the palate is astonishing, as we observe again and again. All of the dials appear to be turned up now, particularly these of ashes, pepper, lemon zest, and cider apple… But all the things stays smooth and exact, certainly ultra-compact. End: somewhat lengthy, peppery, and herbaceous, this time with a barely rustic contact. Ashes and a touch of barley syrup linger within the aftertaste, adopted by the impression of getting simply swallowed a small oyster. Feedback: a kind of bottles that allowed us to have fun the arrival of the third millennium in model. I need to admit the cask-strength variations from Signatory Classic had better breadth, however a few of them might ship you advert patres with out warning if you happen to weren’t cautious.
SGP:566 – 89 factors. |
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Port Ellen 30 yo 1974/2005 (46%, Signatory Classic, Decanter Restricted Version, hogshead, cask #6757, 235 bottles)
Based on the label, this expression was bottled by hand. From my modest expertise, peat at round thirty years of age can start to interrupt down fractally into myriad small aromas, typically circling round fruits, particularly tropical ones. I’d add that the mid-2000s marked the beginning of speculative accumulating amongst fans, pushed by the increase in web sites. The outcome was that much more bottles had been bought, but far fewer had been opened and consumed, proportionally. Fairly a number of of those bottles now seem on public sale websites. Color: chardonnay. Nostril: it’s excellent, compact, targeted, but expressive, with brine, nuts, the same old tar, tiger balm, citron, and shellfish—primarily winkles and whelks. Not far more so as to add, it’s easy and it’s excellent. Mouth: very good pressure, that includes grapefruit and inexperienced pepper. Nothing a lot else aside from tar and oysters, however that’s greater than sufficient, permitting this outdated Port Ellen to retain a really clear profile, opposite to what I could have anticipated. End: lengthy, somewhat oily, with smoked salmon, lemon, dill, and—consider it or not—horseradish and salt. A faint resinous contact lingers within the signature. Feedback: I’ve lengthy been looking for a phrase to switch ‘exact’ however with out success. When you’ve got any ideas, many thanks. In any case, a really grand Port Ellen.
SGP:567 – 92 factors. |
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Port Ellen 23 yo 1975/1998 (56.1%, Signatory Classic, Silent Stills, cask #160, 285 bottles)
We adored this assortment, which at all times included a 5cl miniature and a bit of the cask (supposedly). Legend has it that among the miniatures fetched larger costs at public sale than their corresponding full-sized bottles. A number of Port Ellen vintages had been a part of the sequence, although this specific launch appears particularly uncommon. Color: pale gold. Nostril: stunningly lovely, pure, and compact with out water, exhibiting polish, lemon zest, marzipan, gas oil, and that particular ‘new tyre’ word typical of some Port Ellens. It jogs my memory of the official ‘Uncommon Malts’ launched across the similar time. With water: it fractures fantastically outward from the polish, shifting into brass cleaner, Barbour grease, ski wax, paraffin, outdated paint pots and varnishes, and rust-proofing merchandise… earlier than the gas oil and rubber snap again into focus. Mouth: large precision. Citrus, peppers, polishes, propolis, and ashes—virtually summary in its readability. With water: this time it stays compact and concentrated, leaning much more in direction of lemon and white pepper. End: very lengthy, extremely taut, more energizing and extra saline, with barely much less emphasis on something hydrocarbons. I believe that works completely right here. Feedback: there’s a contact of uncooked energy on this Port Ellen, however maybe that’s precisely what we generally search—to be dominated by such a whisky. Effectively, let’s debate…
SGP:567 – 93 factors. |
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Port Ellen 30 yo 1978/2008 (54.2%, Douglas Laing, Platinum Outdated & Uncommon, 423 bottles)
An expression that already feels prefer it hails from the tail finish of the golden age of impartial Port Ellens, which had been starting to develop just a little scarcer—or so it appeared to me. I’ve by no means been capable of affirm whether or not the homeowners, Diageo, had began implementing a coverage of shopping for again casks from brokers and independents, however it will definitely have made sense. Color: pale gold. Nostril: what can I say, besides that it is a softer, rounder Port Ellen, leaning extra in direction of oils—significantly toasted sesame oil—then candle wax, wakame, gentle soy sauce (for dim sum), and white asparagus. In brief, it has begun to point out extremely tertiary traits, which is, in fact, magnificent. With water: a mix of tar and seawater takes centre stage. Mouth: an instantaneous spicy and jammy facet, paying homage to salted and peppered fig jam. Grapefruit, lemon, and yuzu observe intently, then oysters with Tabasco and a good quantity of liquorice and turmeric. It’s somewhat feisty, as soon as once more. With water: excellent, with marzipan, olive and sesame oils, then the anticipated notes of salt, tar, and ashes make their return. End: very, very salty—you virtually really feel such as you’ve swallowed a mouthful of seawater proper in the midst of the Mediterranean. Or maybe in Port Ellen’s marina. Feedback: fairly elegant, even when the Silent Stills might have barely overshadowed it.
SGP:566 – 91 factors. |
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Port Ellen 1981/2000 (60.4%, The Bottlers, refill sherry butt, cask #1549)
We could be about to shut one of many highest-scoring tastings I’ve carried out in no less than twenty years. The Bottlers, whereas they had been nonetheless lively, firmly held the highest spot on our lists of bottlers—each impartial and official. Since then, we’ve stopped sustaining such controversial rankings. Color: gold. Nostril: we’re firmly in Uncommon Malts territory right here, with that uncooked edge, hints of detergent and solvent, recent tar, flint, and basalt, adopted by lemon zest and recent shellfish—razor clams, cockles, clams… One inevitably thinks of the best white Graves. We should bow in respect, you see. With water: unexpectedly, it folds again onto its foundations—preserved lemon, seaweed, and coal tar. Fairly amusing. Mouth: these 15XX casks are merely unstoppable—brutal, ultra-taut, beautifully structured, downright fiery if you happen to dare take a sip undiluted. The Scottish equal of chicken’s-eye chilli, briefly. Within the background, an oddly fleeting trace of strawberry cream seems, although one generally catches that word drifting previous the maltings—have you ever ever observed? With water: all in on seawater, olive oil, lime, and polish. End: very lengthy, with an enormous arrival of ashes doused in lemon juice. Feedback: no room for improvisation right here—that is engineered to the millimetre. I’d say this sort of profile now not exists in 2024, whether or not when it comes to distillate or its admirably restrained cask affect.
SGP:567 – 93 factors. |
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Port Ellen 27 yo 1982/2009 (58.6%, Signatory Classic, La Maison du Whisky Collector’s Version, hogshead, cask #1523, 229 bottles)
A bottle that impressed me enormously upon launch, with the black label including much more ‘drama’, because the youthful technology would possibly say. Naturally, I secured a bottle, nevertheless it’s been no less than ten years for the reason that final drop vanished—apologies for the excessively ‘inside’ comment. Color: gold. Nostril: I rediscover that barely uncommon floral and metallic edge, unique fruits hovering between banana and mango, outdated furnishings wax, a distinctly ‘1969’ character, a number of nods to its shut neighbours on the shore and to Bowmore, high-grade engine oil, pollen, and dusty outdated books. With water: very fairly, now exhibiting pistachios and macadamia nuts, rowanberry eau-de-vie, and people acquainted outdated paint pots within the basement. Mouth: huge and dominant, as soon as once more. Melon rind, tar, eucalyptus, wax, seawater, a touch of lanolin, and above all a fantastically orchestrated medley of citrus fruits. With water: flawless, because the water elevates each the citrus and wax to centre stage. As soon as once more, there’s that rowanberry eau-de-vie, which one would possibly get pleasure from in Alsace over pistachio ice cream, in various proportions (see what I imply). End: lengthy and sophisticated, barely rustic and herbaceous, with ferns and moss. The peat resurfaces within the retro-olfaction. Feedback: we used to say {that a} advanced, evolving malt was a ‘whisky-film’ versus a ‘whisky-photo’. I’m wondering if we may be coping with a ‘whisky-series’ right here.
SGP:457 – 93 factors. |
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Port Ellen 14 yo 1983/1998 (56.8%, The Cooper’s Alternative, The Classic Malt Whisky Co., sherry)
An amusing launch, mistakenly vintage-dated as “1993” as a substitute of 1983. In any case, we’ve already tasted many wonders from The Cooper’s Alternative and consider the ultimate months of what should now be referred to as the ‘Outdated Port Ellen’ rank amongst its absolute best—very like Brora’s ultimate days. However let’s confirm… Color: gold. Nostril: magnificent, as anticipated, leaning in direction of pine and fir ashes, turpentine essence, hints of radish and mustard, and a faintly smoky outdated hearth. There’s additionally that manzanilla-like word we’ve detected in others. It’s pure and exact, and alternatives to style younger Port Ellen of this calibre are actually few and much between. With water: the ocean, shellfish, fish, recent paint, tarred ropes, outdated blue plastic crates, Muscadet, and seaweed… Mouth: a direct hit to the chin—pepper, mustard, most peat, and three tonnes of tar. Let’s attempt to regain composure… With water: small herbs emerge—dill, fennel, damp earth, parsley, and watercress. It’s recent, it’s excellent, and it balances out the marginally huge nature of the distillate. End: lengthy and jammier, with barely salted orange marmalade. All types of ashes jostle in on the very finish. Feedback: it’s at all times shifting to style these ultimate vintages, however now that Port Ellen has been rebuilt and is talking once more (as is Brora!), issues are beginning to really feel extra celebratory as soon as extra. In any case, what a beast this younger Cooper’s Alternative is.
SGP:467 – 93 factors. |
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Angus’s Nook
From our correspondent and
expert taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Right here is my modest contribution to the Port Ellen-flavoured Whiskyfun Christmas celebrations. All the perfect from WF Scotland’s West Highland workplace by Loch Fyne, have a braw vacation, every one!
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Port Ellen 1982/2007 (46%, Berry Brothers & Rudd, cask #2850) 
Color: white wine. Nostril: it could possibly be the bottling energy, nevertheless it looks like a a lot gentler facet of Port Ellen, with many crushed seashells, coal smoke, a few of that acquainted ‘grubby’ character (assume fisherman’s wellies, creel nets and so on) after which some crushed nettles and pink grapefruit which convey a sense of fruitiness. Very engaging profile that in some way manages to really feel each easy and sophisticated – I do know, is unnecessary. Mouth: properly punchy arrival, far more focussed now, with a giant, assertive coastal character. Many moist rocks, mineral salts, seawater, lemon juice on shucked oysters and an impression of carbolic acidity – like taking a giant mouthful of fermented peaty wash throughout a distillery tour, like we used to supply at Ardbeg throughout extra harmless instances. I additionally discover some beautiful components akin to heather flower and sandalwood, which as soon as once more nod in direction of a lighter facet of PE. End: medium size, crisply smoky, nonetheless persistently coastal and with some traditional medicinal characters akin to iodine and TCP within the aftertaste. Feedback: a straightforward Port Ellen to your tumbler at Christmas, in idea anyway, sadly my pattern is finito! Seems to be like Serge wasn’t ‘too’ impressed with this one again in 2010 (WF85), I believe it is a bit higher than that, however maybe that is what 15 (what?!?!) years within the bottle will do…
SGP: 455 – 88 factors.
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Port Ellen 1979/1988 (65.3%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society #43.2) 
These early SMWS bottlings from the large title distilleries are actually hyper-scare. Fortunately, our contacts on the earth of rich highland fish and chip retailers stay deep and sturdy… Color: brilliant straw. Nostril: leaps out of the glass like a sexy salmon up a well-laddered waterfall! Which is to say: pure petrol – even glycerine – seawater, mustard powder, camphor and plenty of assorted ‘seashore issues’, foam, sand, barnacles, driftwood and shellfish and so on. Fantastically coastal however on the similar time giving the impression of immense thickness, physique and texture. There’s additionally some weighty peat smoke in there, which has the slight impression of sweetness about it, and total a tremendous ‘noseability’, even at such an immense energy. With water: please name the anti-maltoporn brigade! What’s that, their out of workplace says they’re ingesting in a Japanese whisky bar in Drumnadrochit for 2 weeks? It is actually fairly a decent and slender profile, all about coal smoke, tar, uncooked peat character and seawater, however inside that it is totally dazzling and immensely highly effective. Mouth: petrol, lemon juice, camphor, anthracite, uncooked horseradish and lashings of pure tar – you might dissolve a Mini Cooper in 2cls of this beast! But once more, wonderful energy mixed with wonderful approachability. Peat-smoked lemons mixed with lemons preserved in brine, then uncooked inexperienced olives, hints of aniseed and caraway. Good precision, energy and weight. With water: completely huge, the bigliest Port Ellen ever, as President T would possibly eloquently put it. Fantastically oily and thick, with each uncooked peaty energy, together with subtler flavours of sandalwood, dried seaweed, soy sauce and even a touch of malt vinegar on costly chips! As soon as once more, we’re left somewhat predictably emphasising simply how sensible these outdated younger Port Ellens had been. End: beautifully lengthy, again on pure seawater, lemon juice, tar, petrol and numerous medicinal and natural features that linger very lengthy within the aftertaste. Feedback: it is a good Port Ellen.
SGP: 467 – 93 factors.
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Large, manly, rufty tufty, teuchter hugs and an entire bushel of directly-fired salmon to the Loch Ness Jonster for that fantastic SMWS PE!
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| Alas, 2024 was additionally the 12 months we misplaced our expensive pal Diego, an amazing fan of Port Ellen. We preserve considering of you, Diego. |
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(Large because of the Golden Promise bar in Paris and to Whisky Journal & Nice Spirits)
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