Why It Works
- Brown butter lends nutty caramel notes to the dough.
- White miso paste mellows the extraordinary sweetness of butterscotch chips and provides the cookies a fudgy texture.
- Utilizing an equal quantity of spelt to all-purpose flour ensures a nutty, flavorful cookie with a young chew.
I was snobby about butterscotch. Certain, I appreciated it in principle. However in apply, I judged its flat, intense sweetness—an endorphin rush of sugar that appeared to ask for nothing in return.
I’ve grown up a bit since (and largely stopped making use of my lapsed-Catholic guilt to baked items). However I’ve additionally realized that one of the best ways to tame the high-key sweetness of butterscotch isn’t by slicing again however reasonably by leaning laborious into different intense flavors that may convey out its deep caramel bass notes.
Take into account this cookie recipe, then, each an apology to butterscotch and an ode to maximalism. My working title for this recipe was “A Mouthful of Modifiers,” figuratively and actually: “Brown Butter Toasted Sugar Miso Spelt Butterscotch Chip Toasted Pecan.” After the primary batch, my husband gave up and simply began calling them “Liz Cook dinner-ies.”
Critical Eats / Maureen Celestine
The Massive Flavors Wanted for the Final Maximalist Cookies
As a compromise, I’m naming them after their most assertive substances: miso, butterscotch, and pecan. The spelt, brown butter, and frivolously toasted sugar are the duck legs paddling furiously beneath, lending depth with out distraction. The result’s a wealthy, chewy cookie with advanced butterscotch notes and micro-pockets of savoriness and sweetness in every chunk.
Each miso and brown butter have turn out to be unwitting victims of the recipe hype cycle, however they’re common for good motive. Browning butter amps up the butterscotch taste whereas including a tempering nuttiness. By cooling the brown butter to 62°F earlier than continuing, you possibly can cream the butter and sugar collectively, yielding the sunshine, fluffy, effectively aerated combination wanted for completely chewy cookies.
Early in testing, I attempted ditching the miso in favor of additional salt. However I discovered that white miso has each textural and taste advantages in baked items. I missed the deeper savory notes and refined tang of the cookies made with miso, however I missed their fudgy facilities much more. I don’t suggest substituting yellow or purple miso for white. Each yellow and purple miso have a extra intense taste that might overpower the cookie in a one-to-one substitution for purple; and lowering the quantity to compensate would result in a crumblier cookie.
Critical Eats / Maureen Celestine
The Finest Flour Kind for a Balanced Cookie Taste
I additionally strongly suggest going the additional mile to supply spelt flour to make use of alongside normal all-purpose flour on this dough. Spelt flour has a nuttier, sweeter taste than both all-purpose or complete wheat flour, offering a wholesome-tasting, nutty, virtually toasted spine to all that candy butterscotch. I experimented with totally different proportions of spelt to AP, however a easy 50/50 break up was the winner, providing a notable taste enhance with out sacrificing tenderness and chew.
To Relaxation or To not Relaxation the Dough
Many cookie doughs profit from an in a single day relaxation within the fridge—doing so hydrates the flour and thickens the dough, which helps restrict oven unfold whereas bettering the dough’s taste, as former Critical Eats editor and culinary wiz Kenji explains in his chocolate chip cookie recipe. In case you have the time, go for it. However with so many nutty taste boosters on this recipe, I’ve discovered solely minor taste enhancements from chilling in a single day. An hour within the fridge is sufficient to forestall undesirable spreading.
Tips on how to Give the Cookies a Photograph End
In case you’ve maxed out your fuss-budget by this level, you possibly can simply measure out your two-ounce parts of (chilled) cookie dough and chuck the baking sheets straight into the oven. However maximalist cookies deserve maximalist aesthetics, so I wish to press two to 3 butterscotch chips into the highest of every cookie after which give them a lightweight bathe of flaky sea salt earlier than they bake.
After they arrive out of the oven, I wish to quickly swirl an upside-down deli container over every cookie whereas it’s nonetheless heat—the objective is a “wax on,” Karate Child–type motion that may gently bump the gentle edges of the nice and cozy cookies in opposition to the spherical wall of the container.
Is it essential? No. However strictly talking, neither is dessert. Every so often, it’s OK to tug out all of the stops (and use all of the modifiers).
Critical Eats / Maureen Celestine
These Butterscotch-Pecan Cookies Are Irresistible, Due to This Surprising Ingredient
Cook dinner Mode
(Maintain display screen awake)
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150 g pecan halves (5 1/4 ounces; 1 1/4 cup)
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225 g unsalted butter (8 ounces; 16 tablespoons)
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200 g white or frivolously toasted sugar (7 ounces; 1 cup)
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215 g darkish or mild brown sugar (7 1/2 ounces; 1 cup frivolously packed)
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2 giant eggs, chilly from the fridge
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2 teaspoons (10 ml) vanilla extract
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70 g white miso paste (2 1/2 ounces; 1/4 cup)
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225 g all-purpose flour (8 ounces; about 1 1/2 cups)
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225 g spelt flour (8 ounces; about 1 1/2 cups)
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1 teaspoon baking soda
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1/2 teaspoon baking powder
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1 teaspoon (4 g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for desk salt, use about half as a lot by quantity or the identical weight
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180 g butterscotch chips (8 ounces; about 1 cup), plus 45 g (2 ounces; about 1/4 cup) to complete
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Flaky sea salt, reminiscent of Maldon, to complete
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Alter oven rack to center place and preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Organize pecans on a rimmed baking sheet and toast, stirring each 5 minutes, till effectively toasted and mahogany brown, 10 to fifteen minutes. Let cool utterly, then roughly chop.
Critical Eats / Maureen Celestine
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Whereas pecans bake, arrange an ice tub, then soften butter in a stainless-steel saucier or 10-inch skillet over medium warmth, stirring often with a silicone or different heat-resistant spatula. Cook dinner butter, swirling often and utilizing the spatula to scrape up any brown bits till golden-brown, 3 to 7 minutes. Take away from warmth, pour instantly into the bowl of a stand mixer and set bowl in ice tub; enable butter to chill to 62°F and start to solidify, stirring often, about quarter-hour.
Critical Eats / Maureen Celestine
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Add each sugars to cooled browned butter in bowl of stand mixer. Utilizing the paddle attachment, combine collectively butter and sugar on low for 30 seconds to include, then improve velocity to medium and cream till combination is mild, fluffy, and pale, about 5 minutes, stopping midway by way of to scrape down sides of bowl with a spatula.
Critical Eats / Maureen Celestine
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With mixer operating, add chilly eggs, vanilla, and miso and beat simply till included. In a big bowl, totally whisk collectively each flours, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Add to bowl of stand mixer and blend on low velocity till a stiff dough varieties. Add pecans and butterscotch chips and blend on low velocity 10 seconds longer or till included. Wrap dough tightly in plastic wrap and switch to fridge. Chill dough for not less than one hour and as much as 24 hours.
Critical Eats / Maureen Celestine
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When able to bake, line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper, alter oven rack to center place, and preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Take away dough from fridge and divide the dough into 4 parts. Return all however one portion of dough to the fridge and form one portion of the dough into six 2-ounce (55 g) balls (roughly the scale of a golf ball). Place the 6 dough balls not less than 2 inches aside on 1 lined rimmed sheet. With the heel of your hand, barely flatten dough balls into about 1/2-inch thick, 2 1/2-inch huge pucks. If desired for visible impact, press 2 to three extra butterscotch chips into the highest of every cookie. Sprinkle flaky sea salt over cookies. Bake till edges are simply beginning to flip golden brown, 12 to 14 minutes. Whereas cookies are baking, put together the opposite lined baking sheet with 6 extra portioned cookies.
Critical Eats / Maureen Celestine
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Take away baking sheet from oven. For completely round cookies, instantly invert a spherical plastic or glass quart container (or any glass/bowl with a roughly 4- to 5-inch diameter) over the cookies and swirl it quickly round every cookie in turn-–the objective is a “wax on,” Karate Child–type motion that may gently bump the gentle edges of the nice and cozy cookies in opposition to the wall of the container. Let cookies cool on sheet for five minutes, then switch cookies to a wire rack to chill utterly.
Critical Eats / Maureen Celestine
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As soon as every pan has cooled to the contact, repeat portioning, shaping, and baking cookies in batches of 6 per sheet for a complete of about 24 cookies, 4 batches whole.
Critical Eats / Maureen Celestine
Particular Gear
Stainless-steel saucier or 10-inch skillet, heat-proof spatula, stand mixer with paddle attachment, 2 rimmed baking sheets, parchment, spherical glass or plastic quart container or any glass/bowl with a roughly 4- to -5-inch diameter, wire rack
Make-Forward and Storage
Cookies may be saved at room temperature in an hermetic container for as much as 10 days.