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| Hello, that is certainly one of our (virtually) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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January 23, 2025
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A small assortment of grand Mortlachs, second half
The 15-year-old 1969 from G&M actually floored us yesterday—we’ve barely recovered. However that’s not stopping us from tasting just a few extra Mortlachs, nonetheless in ascending age order…
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Mortlach 16 yo 2007/2024 (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice, bourbon hogshead, Summer time 2024) 
It’s value noting that the labels for this sequence are way more traditional—and maybe extra aesthetically pleasing—than these of different Decadent Drinks sequence (SpongeLand and the like). Color: white wine. Nostril: there’s that chalky, frivolously yeasty fruitiness harking back to the most effective pure wines which might be so modern lately. Apples, after all, greengages, redcurrants, rhubarb, even watermelon… A contact of wax and custard wraps all of it up, although that’s purely beauty. A tiny trace of ham emerges ultimately, very refined—it’s probably not a type of meaty Mortlachs. Maybe a small lovage leaf. Mouth: very Mortlachian, with out sherry—which means fatty, oily, pretty waxy too, then with the standard apples and plums, with a contact of pure Champagne this time once more (extra blanc de noirs in type). End: lengthy, fruity, and nonetheless fairly wealthy, with a slight peppery contact. Feedback: excellent, within the spirit of yesterday’s DL bottling. The distillate—and certain the restricted ‘copper contact’—sings in a deep voice.
SGP:651 – 88 factors. |
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Mortlach 26 yo 1997/2023 ‘Adversum’ (52.2%, Classic Bottlers, 1st fill Château Lafite, cask #187207, 120 bottles)
One of many recurring questions with these ‘first fill’ casks from prestigious wines like Lafite is whether or not they’re merely first used for whisky or if they arrive straight from the château, the place they’ve held just one classic earlier than often transferring on to much less prestigious wineries, as is customary. Color: amber. Nostril: like a really younger Bordeaux grand cru, really, and I remorse to tell you that we like it. So, even when philosophically we would not approve of such a combination, in apply, we discover the nostril very good. There, I mentioned it. Black cherry clafoutis, light liquorice, prunes in Armagnac. The worst half? Lafite-Rothschild certainly has its personal Armagnac, a shocking ‘Vieille Réserve’ they’ve been providing for years. We’ll open a type of sometime. In brief, I have to admit that I discover this inconceivable nostril magnificent. Maybe does massive Mortlach pair surprisingly nicely with massive Pauillac. With water: glue notes emerge—seemingly from the practically new French oak—adopted by menthol toffee. Mouth (neat): we received’t deny ourselves the pleasure. Whereas it’s barely much less quick than the nostril, it stays stunning, with younger Cabernet-like bell peppers including a inexperienced edge that enhances the meaty and oily malt. With water: a vigorous battle, as pepper asserts its dominance. Wild raspberry and cherry jam observe. End: lengthy, very cherry-forward, with notes of roasted malt and chocolate. Feedback: it’s extraordinarily winey, however for as soon as, we’re all for it. In spite of everything, who doesn’t love Lafite? Or Mortlach?
SGP:571 – 88 factors. |
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Mortlach 1992/2022 (44.2%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS22043, 259 bottles)
What a sequence these ‘uncommon casks’ are, really exceptional. And for as soon as, a bottler makes use of the phrase ‘uncommon’ with correct justification… Color: bronze gold. Nostril: nice enjoyable, this comes from a ‘deviant’ cask, which means you’re feeling one thing uncommon has occurred—although that doesn’t imply it’s not pleasant. Fairly the alternative right here, as discovering rye, gingerbread, speculoos, almond milk, putty, and mint liqueur in an previous Mortlach is… a wonderful shock. In brief, that is an already uncommon Mortlach made even rarer. You do surprise what occurred to it robust—maybe a nail? A patch? A valinch or copperdog by accident fell in? Mouth: blood oranges, earthy tones, darkish tobacco, roasted pistachios, then what might very nicely stem from the contemporary distillate—grilled bacon and beef broth. All fairly mysterious, however very pleasurable. End: honey-glazed ham, tobacco, and darkish nougat. Loads of cloves, rosemary, and pine resin sweets within the aftertaste. Feedback: oh, if solely this entertaining previous Mortlach might discuss…
SGP:562 – 88 factors. |
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Mortlach 32 yo 1991/2023 (54.1%, Signatory Classic, thirty fifth Anniversary, 1st fill sherry butt, cask #4241, 580 bottles) 
I had saved this gem for an important day. What sort of event, you ask? Properly, to paraphrase Hester Brown, having a Mortlach like this in a single’s assortment is an important day in itself. Color: gold. Nostril: ah, ferns, wisteria, lily of the valley, Alsatian orange biscuits (why not?), cassata, orange blossom, sultanas, then a contact of ham fats and beeswax… That is lofty, complicated, and really good. Whiffs of an previous wine cellar. With water: amusingly, it tightens up just a little with notes of furnishings polish, linseed oil, plasticine, absinthe, and walnut oil. Little question the sherry affect—this walnut oil notice. Mouth (neat): magnificent, with pine and orange, buds and peels, and that signature fattiness nonetheless intact in any case these years. With water: resinous parts take centre stage, but superbly so, within the type of an previous Chartreuse. Amen. End: lengthy, with extra fruitiness re-emerging, formed by the cask however on no account intrusive—quite the opposite. A mentholated tobacco notice lingers within the aftertaste, or as Gainsbourg may need mentioned, “Kool au Menthol.” Feedback: what a disgrace—we polished off all of the 1969 G&M yesterday, or we might have in contrast them. S., you beginner!
SGP:561 – 91 factors. |
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We’ll cease right here. Adios for now, Beast of Dufftown.
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