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| Hello, that is one in all our (nearly) every day tastings. Santé! |
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December 20, 2024
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5 classic Yoichi, together with an absolute gem |
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Past the extra generally recognized Japanese blends, Yoichi stood out as one of many 4 distinctive single malts from the Land of the Rising Solar that had been already gaining recognition in Europe earlier than the 12 months 2000. A real jewel of the Nikka group, the Yoichi distillery was based in 1934. The opposite three had been Miyagikyo (established in 1969, additionally a part of Nikka) and the 2 icons of Suntory: Yamazaki (1923) and Hakushu (1973). ({Photograph} Nikka) |
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On the time, different Japanese malts had been nonetheless comparatively area of interest, together with Karuizawa (1955–2001), which solely actually got here to our consideration in 2007. By then, its then-owners, the Kirin Group, had already introduced that no new single malts can be produced sooner or later, with solely the remaining inventory accessible. Right here, we current 5 Yoichis which are already reasonably previous and steeped in historical past.
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Yoichi 16 yo 1991/2007 (62%, OB, oak cask, cask #129493, Warehouse #15) 
A Yoichi that left a robust impression on me once I first tried it some fifteen years in the past. I’ll add that I’ve all the time been keen on the charming simplicity of the time period ‘oak cask’. So understated, and that’s simply excellent. Color: darkish gold. Nostril: the oily texture of this malt is already obvious on the nostril! Appears to be a closely peated model, with plenty of resinous wooden ash, some coal, and the bergamots of Nancy, even a contact of fatty ham. Then, a clearer line emerges with roasted chestnuts, camphor, and sauna oils. That Japanese character feels distinguished. A powerful nostril thus far. With water: an beautiful dance of waxes, recent putty, camphor, and various peppers, together with Sichuan pepper. Mouth: wealthy and certainly oily, however these little citrus notes, led by bergamot, carry instant and fantastic freshness. Within the background, some beautiful bitters that give it an nearly Italian edge. With water: a fats, smoky peat takes the reins. Impressions of smoked olive oil and inexperienced walnuts comply with. End: lengthy, nonetheless oily however by no means tiring. There’s a refined salty, minty contact and naturally spiced olive oil. Feedback: I haven’t modified my opinion; it is a magnificent Yoichi. No marvel these vintages had been immediately celebrated.
SGP:467 – 90 factors. |
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Yoichi 20 yo 1991/2011 (63%, OB, Closely Peated, cask #129651, Warehouse #15) 
A ‘brother’ cask to the earlier one, bottled a couple of years later with a couple of extra years of age. You’d naturally anticipate loads of similarities. The inclusion of particulars like warehouse n°15 is really an indicator of those earlier Japanese malts. Color: deep gold. Nostril: you get that saline, citrusy stress once more, with recent mint, spruce wooden, a contact of bacon, eucalyptus, after which a way of an previous temple, cedarwood, incense, beeswax… the peat is each distinguished and discreet, completely built-in with out ever veering into that condiment-like profile generally present in peated whiskies from different international locations. There’s a pure rubbery contact not current within the earlier cask. With water: now it’s nearly similar to cask n°129493. Waxes, propolis, recent putty, and inexperienced pepper. Mouth: a lot tauter now, bitter, very peppery, salty, nearly a bit aggressive. It does want water. With water: a great deal of olives, capers, amaro, aubergine, ashes… End: very lengthy, smoky, on brine, olives, candied citrus peels, cardamom, and coriander seeds. Aftertaste on inexperienced peppercorns with a tiny contact of honey and vanilla. Feedback: the youthful one was a bit extra civilised, rather less wild. This twenty-year-old is extremely energetic however mellows out a bit over time.
SGP:367 – 89 factors. |
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Yoichi 11 yo 1990/2002 (62.2%, OB, cask #129613, Warehouse #7) 
All these Yoichi bottlings carried the ‘Nikka’ label, with little deal with the distillery itself again then. Yoichi produced every part from closely peated malts to nearly unpeated ones, and infrequently it’s solely in the course of the tasting that this turns into obvious. Let’s see… Color: gold. Nostril: the wooden feels extra distinguished, extra ahead, maybe virgin oak, because the Japanese used virgin oak way more than the Scots did twenty or thirty years in the past. Recent ginger, turmeric, gooseberries, rhubarb, apple peelings, and a few humus… With water: a couple of unique fruits creep in, banana pores and skin, guavas, barely underripe papayas… Mouth: a sure sharpness from the wooden, inexperienced pepper, lemon peel, coriander leaf… Water positively feels vital right here to calm all of it down. With water: an amusing Fins Bois-style cognac word, barely rustic and natural. Cider apples stand out strongly. End: lengthy, natural, with inexperienced pepper and fir honey. Some lime peel and ginger linger because the signature. Feedback: possibly on account of its youth, this Yoichi feels a bit tough and dominated by lively wooden. It ought to mellow out additional after thirty or forty years within the cellar. Sure.
SGP:471 – 87 factors. |
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Yoichi 13 yo 1989/2003 (62.3%, OB, cask #228276, Warehouse #29)
Shall we discover peat on this different younger Yoichi? Color: pale gold. Nostril: a special model, very elegant, with oily notes of sesame and hazelnut oil, wooden varnish, recent pistachios, and as soon as once more, banana pores and skin. There’s a really gentle whiff of smoke (charcoal) and a contact of rhubarb. Hints of high-rye bourbon right here and there, although that ought to fade with a splash of… With water: it turns into extra compact however stays beautiful, with notes of mushrooms, pine needles, inexperienced tea, and thyme… Mouth: wealthy, highly effective, but taut. Chlorophyll and lemon peel, kirsch, varnish, orgeat, ginger… You may think a contact of mizunara right here, although that’s not sure. With water: nonetheless an oily texture, with grape seed oil and inexperienced banana. These varnish touches persist, adopted by hints of cumin and citrusy lemons. End: lengthy, natural, leaning in the direction of closely infused inexperienced tea. Inexperienced wooden lingers within the aftertaste together with some smoke within the type of lapsang souchong, roasted teas like hojicha, and liquorice. A contact of blackcurrant bud and a few tannins as properly. Feedback: probably a really lively cask and a Yoichi that’s remained fairly younger and vibrant. At instances, it feels a bit like fino sherry or perhaps a vin jaune from Arbois, however in the long run, it’s distinctly Japanese. Maybe the least Westernised of true Japanese malts.
SGP:472 – 87 factors. |
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Yoichi 15 yo 1984/2000 (60.4%, OB, cask #103440, Warehouse #22)
1984 was a fantastic classic for Japanese malt whisky, although that’s purely anecdotal. Moreover, we haven’t tasted lots of of them, alas! Color: amber gold. Nostril: you would cease right here, it’s that beautiful. Beautiful wafts of pipe tobacco and menthol, dried figs, chestnut honey, previous leather-bound books, Iberian ham, dried meats, morels, previous turpentine, and high-quality motor oil… What a whirlwind! With water: beeswax takes over, with much more turpentine and touches of linseed oil. Spruce buds. Mouth: it’s throughout. A resinous profile, very pronounced however softened by honey, previous ‘medicinal’ liqueurs, verbena, Timut pepper, a faintly lemony hoppy facet, and smoked meats… That is completely and totally majestic. With water: a sudden burst of dried fruits, rounded out with a splash of myrtle liqueur. Nearly Corsican now. End: lengthy, nearly refreshing. Mint, wax, and liquorice in excellent steadiness. Darkish chocolate and Pulmoll pastilles within the aftertaste—bear in mind these? Feedback: this flirts with the chic. Di you name the ANMPB? (That’s Anti-Nippon-Malto-Porn Brigade).
SGP:562 – 93 factors. |
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(Enormous due to the Golden Promise bar in Paris and to Whisky Journal & Positive Spirits)
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